VW trans?

[Marshall]

I just picked up a baja with a bus tranny and the thing shifts like crap or should I say doesnt shift. I pulled the shifter apart and cleaned/ greased it but didnt help much. Were should I start? New shifter? linkage? Peopele are tellling me it just how VW's are but ther is no way ( my first VW always had trucks) What is a good brand of shifter if that something needed? Thanks

[ChuckH]

The shifter is attached to a rod that is attached to the front of the trans ( shifting thingy ) check to make sure where it is attached to the trans is ok, to do that pull the back seat and you will see a round cover, remove it and check the connection.

[DailyPedal]

If the trans is a bus IRS (tires straight up and down) and the shift rod is inside the tunnel (hump down the middle of pan) then it is a common cause of problems due to the angle (shift rod is designed to be straight). Your best bet is to take it to a VW specialist to determine which mounts (straight or angled 10 degrees) that you have, condition of shifter (some need a bushing, others do not) and shift bushing (up next to shifter on rod) and condition of trans itself (nose cone on front of trans, or a problem inside). Shouldn't be expensive just to check since everything is visable-they may even check it out for free. If you can get some of this info this board may be able to help you.

[Marshall]

The tunnel has been cut out to have access to the front of the trans and nothing looks to be out out of the norm (from what I can see). How would I tell what angle it needs to be at ( the shift rod angle you had mentiond) Im a hour plus from a VW shop.

[ntsqd]

Bushings in the nosecone are one possible problem. If those are worn most likely the seal is shot too and it'll leak some oil where the shaft goes in.
In a stock Bus IRS there is some complicated linkage inside the nosecone. One of those parts is a ball, usually plastic. Might pop the nosecone off and check for slop there.

[Marshall]

No oil leaks, I will pop it off and take a look. Am i just looking for worn bushings?

[WannaB-class5]

When we did a swap from Stock IRS to bus on my friends bug, the shift rod had to be raised about 2". We bought a $15 item from McKenzie's down here and welded it in. I can't tell if that is what is going on in your pic but like stated before that angle can/will throw everything off. Otherwise it is very likely to be the nose cone. They are terrible on vw's! And do not listen to whomever said it is normal for shifting to be crappy. I listened to someone for like a year, replaced my tran with a pro-sand and its god-like now.

[BURLY]

The shift rod is designed to work with a type 1 trans not a bus trans, you either need to buy a coupler that goes from the coupler up to the trans (Mckenzies or kartek should have them, Or you could weld a shifter box on top of the tunnel (hump in the pan) and run the shift tube on top.

[200MPHTape]

You might want to also try moving the shifter around, the 2 bolts holding it down. Some times on a tranny swap the sift shaft don't line up with the plate were it was bolted down before. Make sure the little plate is the right way. Little tab up.(I think) If its hard to get into any gear that sounds more like clutch(not fully disengaging).

[Marshall]

Thanks for the replys. It looks to me they had cut out the tunnel to clear the linkage but it is still binding and hitting the tunnel. I will try the adapter you mentioned and lower it down. So your telling me VW's can shift smooth? I figured that VW trans have seen more miles than any other in the Dez so they have to work somehow:)

[ntsqd]

If you are going to mess with the shifter tube and coupler I would move it all to the top of the tunnel as suggested. There is a very good shifter sold for buggy use to do this with.

[Marshall]

Its a full bodied and has a third seat so I would rather keep it out of the way and limit holes in the floor. Do the 5/16 guys run it on top?

[uncledirty]

I mounted mine so the shift rod was in the tunnel. Just raised the back and lowered the front. I also used solid mounts, no more bolts in the frame horn, and a mid mount. With the 091 you have to shorten the shift rod.

[200MPHTape]

I also used solid mounts, no more bolts in the frame horn, and a mid mount.
I don't know how many tranny strap kits I see along the course after a race, but solid mount is the way to go. And if you can, keep them horns from twisting.

[WannaB-class5]

Marshal,

MAKE SURE YOU LISTEN to the last posts. If you are going to touch the tranny, get solid mounts! No if ands or buts my friend (dont even think about urathane).

[Marshall]

Its solid mounted and has two trans straps. Also tube from the horns to the cage. Its very 5/16 ish in the cage but with 3x3's and wide coilovered front.

[WannaB-class5]

Sound like you will have yourself a great car when it shifts! What motor do you have on it?

[Marshall]

Its a 1915 built by VW Gearheads in Escondido? The previous owner had it built right before I bought the Car and its new from the case up. Too clean for a VW. Need to through dirt and oil on it:)

[Marshall]

the front susp.

[ChuckH]

I would take about 5 inches out of the exhaust pipe right before the muffler so it doesn't get smashed, nice Ba-Ja

[Marshall]

I was thinking the same thing. Maybe chop it and run a supertrap? Any ideas?

[ChuckH]

That would work too, nothing wrong with the muffler though and it would only cost a few bucks to shorten, or nothing if you or a friend has a welder.

[Marshall]

I could weld it but its jet hot coated. Buy the time I got the coating off and welded it, it would look like crap cnd cost less to buy a another than re coat it.

[Ryan_P]

You might as well save up and get another exhaust to the j-bend, then get just a spark arrestor. This way you can have one exhaust for driving on the streets and one for driving off-road. I plan on doing this because the cops weren't too happy with my last vw with a spark arrestor on the streets. Just a though, but a clean VW at that. You still have the pan in that thing?

[WannaB-class5]

I ripped my muffler off! Wasn't mounted exactly like that, but it hung low. A big jump in some soft sand and muffler no more! It was a cheapie though....shorten that thing!

[ntsqd]

I could weld it but its jet hot coated. Buy the time I got the coating off and welded it, it would look like crap cnd cost less to buy a another than re coat it.

Actually, No. Cut it first. Likely need an abrasive chop saw to do so. Grind back the Jet Hot less than 1/8" per side and TIG weld it back together. Note that as it successively heat cycles the coating will migrate over to the weld. It's bizarre, but I've seen it happen. The key is two-fold, don't grind off any more than you absolutely have to, and keep the weld bead as narrow as possible (hence the TIG suggestion).

[Marshall]

Wow, I might give that a shot, I thought that if I tigged it it would radiate so much heat and melt/discolor a larger section. Thanks for the info, I love this board

[WannaB-class5]

I was wondering how the mods went? Any updates on your Bug?

[Marshall]

Well.... I had someone offer me quite as bit more than I paid for it and well its gone. Im kinda bumbed but on to the next ? What? Im not sure. Its just rare you make money on a project. Thanks everyone for your imput, I copied all the replys and gave them to the new owner.

[WannaB-class5]

Sounds good to me!