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weldithot79
October 14th, 2006, 21:53
Last night I Hit a very large rock that punctured a 3/16 aluminum skid plate and broke the bottom of my stock tacoma radiator:mad: . My question is two fold; 1 can the plastic portion be repaired, and two, if i wanted to relocate the radiator behind the cab, it is an extended cab, would the stock water pump be enough to handle the extra capacity and distance. Also what aftermarket radiator would you guys reccomend for this application. The engine is a supercharged 3.4l. Thanks in advance.

weldithot79
October 18th, 2006, 19:45
Does anyone have any input?

Brandon_Charley
October 18th, 2006, 20:11
Everything I've ever read says that putting the radiator behind the cab is not worth it, no one has ever had anything good to say about the results.

Scott_F
October 18th, 2006, 20:12
Search here and DR for rear rad threads.

The plastic tank may not be repairable. One alternative may be to replace it with an aluminum tank welded to the core.

Jarvis
October 19th, 2006, 00:31
This setup is tricky. But well worth it if setup correctly. First you WILL need a huge water pump electric not run from the engine. If you don’t want to spend the cash then two cheap electric ones can be used in series one just after the block and one just after the rad (these must be same capacity).

More important than this is the circulation through the rad. We built a wind tunnel that scooped air off the roof down over the top of the rad which is placed at a 45 degree angle forced through the rad with the help of a flex e-light fan and then down and out the bottom.

This setup is not easy. And maintenance is a B’atch. But if you get it setup properly then.

1. No way to damage rad from rocks and so on.
2. Better weight distribution over the car shifts a scary amount of weight back behind the pivot point.
3. The air now passing over the engine is cool air from outside not hot air from the rad.
4. Free up a little horsepower in the engine by not running a bulky fan.
5. If you like, with the extra space up front you can run a cage inside the front to protect the engine or shorten the front or use the extra space for a huge turbo (which is what we did) or whatever.

Need some inspiration http://www.adrianstomcat.co.uk/BowlerWildcat.htm

Hope this helps.

weldithot79
October 20th, 2006, 02:17
Well I searched here and on dr, there is a lot of negative feedback on relocating the radiator, but some positive. Im not sure if Im going to relocate yet but I am wanting some input on what brand radiator I should go with. I have had the engine get a little warm when out at the dunes or running down washes in the summer with everything stock.

sickrick
October 20th, 2006, 10:47
I run a Afco aluminum stock car radiator in the Bronco and the toyota.. They come in many sizes and have either chevy or ford outlets. You will have to make your own mounts.

I spent $170 for each.

The one in the bronco is the widest one they make. The one in the Toyota is the narrowest one they make.

Just weld mounts to the tanks where you need them and make some hoses and they should work fine.

johnnyweb
October 20th, 2006, 14:00
some things that can make relocating the radiator to the rear harder. if the truck has w/shield and rear glass in it. is the bed still on the truck? if yes then i would leave it up front and protect it better. i have been racing a 7 truck for 5 years with the stock large radiator in the stock position and am still using the same radiator today. give some more info on your truck and the use the truck gets.

weldithot79
October 21st, 2006, 03:44
The truck has no glass left in it, extended cab,3.4 supercharged, caged cab back, no bed of glass on the rear yet, and Im currently working on the engine cage and some new front arms. The amount of air coming through the cab kind of suprised me when I first removed the glass so Im thinking that a little duct work on the rear and airflow would not be a problem at speed. The one thing I am questioning Is the stock water pump, is it enough? I would like to do this right the first time so all input is appreciated.

weldithot79
October 27th, 2006, 01:39
anyone?

RocketMan
November 1st, 2006, 15:55
here is my 2 cents, i think i'd put better lights on the truck so you don't hit BIG rocks @ night ,I'd also put a 1/4 thick plate on the truck cause if you run stuff over that punches holes in a 3/16 plate it must not be good enough and put a new radiator back in it in the front....before you open a can of worms with your cooling system....

wrightracing.net
November 6th, 2006, 19:46
here is my 2 cents, i think i'd put better lights on the truck so you don't hit BIG rocks @ night ,I'd also put a 1/4 thick plate on the truck cause if you run stuff over that punches holes in a 3/16 plate it must not be good enough and put a new radiator back in it in the front....before you open a can of worms with your cooling system....

I have to agree, Unless you are running a full race truck don't open that can or worms. Air pockets, long runs of cooling lines, it can be a mess. I would say ditch the aluminum skid plate. I had one on my full size Bronco and it took one hit and it was history. You should use 1/8 mild steel with good bracing behind and in the middle. I have one on my Bronco now and I have come off a jump nosed it in and it still works great.

weldithot79
November 8th, 2006, 18:15
Well I got my new radiator in today and decided it is getting moved to the rear so if anyone has any suggestions for in-line water pumps post up. Thanks