help with wheel studs

[texans at baja]

my uncle runs a class 3 bronco and during some test this weekend trying to sort out some stuff on the truck the wheel studs on the hub started to sheer off. he is runing champion wheels and the truck is set up pretty tuff in the drive line but this is the second time we have run across this issue. the first time we thought it was due to some rough driving but now it has happened again during not so rough driving. i do not have too many specifics on stud size or anything but just wondering if there is anything basic we are overlooking that could cause this sort of issue. any help would be greatly appreciated.

texas hank

[JGunn]

my uncle runs a class 3 bronco and during some test this weekend trying to sort out some stuff on the truck the wheel studs on the hub started to sheer off. he is runing champion wheels and the truck is set up pretty tuff in the drive line but this is the second time we have run across this issue. the first time we thought it was due to some rough driving but now it has happened again during not so rough driving. i do not have too many specifics on stud size or anything but just wondering if there is anything basic we are overlooking that could cause this sort of issue. any help would be greatly appreciated.

texas hank

It might need the RV diameter studs for strength?

[NicksTrix]

it can be a number of things. first he isn't still running a 1/2" stock wheel stud is he?
next, how old are they? have they been over torqued? what do the sheared studs look like and where are they shearing off?

[texans at baja]

i dont think the wheel stud is stock like i said i think the drive train has been modified to try to be bullet proof but obviously not the case. i will try to get some more details tomorrow. the torque deal could be it and i know they are the same studs from last year. i am running a bike class this year and heard of their issues and figured this is the best place to try and find help since most everybody here is more familiar with this stuff than i. thanks again for any input and i will relay any info to them.

texas hank

[texans at baja]

i did not think to ask what the sheered studs looked like, and will will find out tomorrow and post back. thanks.

texas hank

[ARCRacing]

i dont think the wheel stud is stock like i said i think the drive train has been modified to try to be bullet proof but obviously not the case. i will try to get some more details tomorrow. the torque deal could be it and i know they are the same studs from last year. i am running a bike class this year and heard of their issues and figured this is the best place to try and find help since most everybody here is more familiar with this stuff than i. thanks again for any input and i will relay any info to them.

texas hank
I have a strong back geound in mechanical fasteners. Here are some things you can due to help the situation. First realize over torque is as damaging to a stud as under torque. Both with result in studs snapping off. Typically the material used for stock Ford or Chevy studs is 1021 or 1022 steel heat treated to about 32-35 Rockwell. The torque should be set around to 125 ft lbs. Buy yourself a good torque wrench and check the torque every time you change a tire or before you race. I know it is a pain but you will notice things getting better. Next make sure you are buying wheel studs made in the U.S. The head marking will tell you. Every manufacture has a unique alpha letter assigned to them. No letter it’s probably a cheap import. It’s like everything in this industry the more you pay for it typically the better the quality. Wheel studs are not the place to save money. I know Kartek has them made by a US company and anyone buying them knows they are not cheap but they are strong.

[jesusgatos]

Why not just buy some high-strength studs from a company like ARP?

[patcsg]

I was there Saturday and they are 1/2" studs.

[NicksTrix]

I was there Saturday and they are 1/2" studs.

well thats the start of their troubles. time to upgrade & more than likely start using a torque wrench when putting the wheels on everytime.
hope they fix it right before they come out for the race. best of luck to you guys.

[Tipracer]

Go with the largest stud you can afford(this means changing alot of stuff...) and go no weaker than grade 8, www.portlandbolt.com has a really good explanation of the differences. Good luck, in a tight situation use an impact set to the correct torque for the studs that you have(on most impacts you can set the tourqe level...use this to your advantage), not a perfect answer but better thatn doing it incorrectly.
Just remember 1000 miles offroad is like 100K on road(without a scheduled maint.)