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Perfect Race
July 6th, 2007, 16:17
Here are some photos on my car I rebuilt this spring. I did some chassis updates to make it Score legal, lowered the spare down over the trans and fixed some cracks, etc.. I stress relieved the chassis and powder coated everything. It is chassis # 26 and was built in 88 or 89 for Bill Church. I went through everything on the car except the engine that had 1 race and the body paint. I mostly race MORE now and someday I'll build an 1835 and race Score when I get some money and the kids are older.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2715.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2717.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2719.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2721.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/flower28/DSCN2724-1.jpg

Michael Pee
July 6th, 2007, 17:21
Great looking little 2 seater. More is a great place to race.

Dezertpilot
July 6th, 2007, 17:47
Chassis is looking very nice, we race an older Raceco, one of the last beam cars to be ran in class one. The car owner has done a bunch of updates in preperation for the big race this year. We also run MORE, a great place to run!

motochris
July 6th, 2007, 18:15
Are there still torsions in that rear housing?

MO'B MOTORSPORTS
July 6th, 2007, 21:03
Are there still torsions in that rear housing?

if you look at the side pic the spring plate is hollow it wouldnt be if there was

bw1482
July 6th, 2007, 21:13
sweet car looks great, those older beam cars are my favorite looking car.

mattb
July 7th, 2007, 09:44
sweet car looks great, those older beam cars are my favorite looking car.

I agree. That is a great all around car. Nice job.

Rory
July 7th, 2007, 13:24
Lee, thanks for posting those pic's. Not too often you see a DR2 that nice, I can only hope mine turns out that good. What color did you paint the frame? I'm about a month away from testing mine for the first time and then gets stripped to the frame for powder coat. You did a very nice job...maybe you can talk to your buddies at Hot VWs and get that one featured TOO!

Rory
July 7th, 2007, 13:30
Lee, PM sent.

mgobaja
July 7th, 2007, 22:26
What about setting it up so both of you get into 1 article 2 x DR2, would be a good read.

bcampbell04
July 8th, 2007, 17:09
very nice. i love that chassis. always have. good luck with the rest of the project. bring it out to a SNORE race and race Class 10.

mexracer10
July 9th, 2007, 21:47
do you know who made those rear hubs?? I have a race-co with the same set up in the rear, and was curious who made them?? I was leaning towards early summers brothers, but not 100%

Rory
July 10th, 2007, 08:51
Probably Curnutt.

wstephens
July 10th, 2007, 11:24
Probably Curnutt.

The hub looks like curnutt, the brake calipers look like AP which I think was the original setup on curnutt hubs. The thing thats stumping me is the "hub cover/cap".

mexracer10
July 10th, 2007, 13:34
that hub cap is threaded on the inside and over the cv there is a flange much like a boot flange but with threads on the outsdie rim of it. The outter cap screws on over the flange on the cv. Its a wierd set up but i guess works. What gets me is how the inner part of the hub screws on to the outter part through the arm, been trying to figure out how to take it apart.

wstephens
July 10th, 2007, 13:48
that hub cap is threaded on the inside and over the cv there is a flange much like a boot flange but with threads on the outsdie rim of it. The outter cap screws on over the flange on the cv. Its a wierd set up but i guess works. What gets me is how the inner part of the hub screws on to the outter part through the arm, been trying to figure out how to take it apart.

If it is in fact a curnutt hub, I have them on my DR2 and needless to say, I have rebuilt them a couple times. It's no fun and you pretty much have to make your own tools to do it. There are a couple tricks to it, as far as o-rings and such. The bearings are still available from TIMKEN. It costs about $150 per set (bearing & race) and there are two sets per hub. Let me know if you need any info (part #'s). It's not rocket science, it just takes someone "walking" through it with you a couple times. By the way, if you have any doubts about your bearings, REPLACE them. It is easier and cheaper to replace the bearings than to replace your hubs. The curnutt hubs are made of "un-obtainium" (in other words you can't get them any more, and if you CAN get them, PLEASE LET ME KNOW)

mexracer10
July 10th, 2007, 14:01
well i dont know about the curnutt hubs but i was just at summers brothers new place and they are making a come back. They have their old stlye hubs that they are reverse engineering to bring back into production, along with their calipers and front hubs. the new owner is really cool and willing to work with the customers, he is making me a new set of axles for the raceco. As far as those curnutt hubs go how good are they at keeping water out??

tim_krueger
July 10th, 2007, 14:06
Nice Car!

wstephens
July 10th, 2007, 14:10
well i dont know about the curnutt hubs but i was just at summers brothers new place and they are making a come back. They have their old stlye hubs that they are reverse engineering to bring back into production, along with their calipers and front hubs. the new owner is really cool and willing to work with the customers, he is making me a new set of axles for the raceco. As far as those curnutt hubs go how good are they at keeping water out??

NOT!

It was recommended that after ANY race in which you go through water, Rebuild the hubs.
A little splash here and there, no big deal. If you go swimming, Rebuild the hubs.
Other than the water issue, they seem to be pretty tough. So far I have been happy with them. (knock on wood)

Who were you talking to at Summers Bros ? Contact Info would be great.

Perfect Race
July 10th, 2007, 17:20
Yes they are Curnutt hubs. They are held on the arm with 7, 1/2" dia. bolts, so they are a complete assembled hub separate of the arm. The hub cap is just a spun cap with inner threads at the opening. The c/v has a threaded ring that doubles as the ball retainer and the 6 bolts hold the c/v on through the ring. Pretty simple set up. They don't seal out the water very well. I have been using the same old bearings for along time about 15 races. Thanks for the good comments, it has taken a while but I finally got the "Full Teardown" done.

wstephens
July 10th, 2007, 17:28
Yes they are Curnutt hubs. They are held on the arm with 7, 1/2" dia. bolts, so they are a complete assembled hub separate of the arm. The hub cap is just a spun cap with inner threads at the opening. The c/v has a threaded ring that doubles as the ball retainer and the 6 bolts hold the c/v on through the ring. Pretty simple set up. They don't seal out the water very well. I have been using the same old bearings for along time about 15 races. Thanks for the good comments, it has taken a while but I finally got the "Full Teardown" done.

Glad to hear that!;) I think they're great. Just worried about getting parts if something were to happen. Car looks awesome. Someday I hope to upgrade my DP2 to coil overs with longer front arms.
Keep up the good work.

Balmaceda
October 5th, 2009, 07:49
here are some pics of our DR2, we are still racing with it, great car, no problems at all, the rear suspension has been upgraded to coil-overs and bypass, the engine is a Fat Performance Toyota V6 has 350 hp, and the transmission a Fortin 6 speed sequential.

CRAIG_HALL
October 5th, 2009, 14:50
I'm sure Lee's car is prepped & pinked out for the Powder Puff race

Perfect Race
October 5th, 2009, 22:37
That is a good looking car from Cabo. My (her?) car is prepped but not pink. We are trying to figure out where to put about 20 stickers from all the great companies that donated to the Powder Puff/Cedars Sinai.

Fourstroker
October 6th, 2009, 10:00
Good luck this weekend Lee. My Dad will be out chasing for my wife in his DR2

Rory
October 6th, 2009, 13:00
here are some pics of our DR2, we are still racing with it, great car, no problems at all, the rear suspension has been upgraded to coil-overs and bypass, the engine is a Fat Performance Toyota V6 has 350 hp, and the transmission a Fortin 6 speed sequential.

That car looks somewhat familure, is it the old Shet Huffman Chenowth from back in the mid 80's? Whats the history on the car? I love hearing a little bit of history on race cars. Nice Chenowth, looks very well built and maintained.

Balmaceda
October 7th, 2009, 10:24
That car looks somewhat familure, is it the old Shet Huffman Chenowth from back in the mid 80's? Whats the history on the car? I love hearing a little bit of history on race cars. Nice Chenowth, looks very well built and maintained.


This car was bought from Bob Gordon in the late 90īs i believe, it was bought here in Cabo by Alberto Coppola, at that time i think Gordon had two of these cars both identical. We bought it in 2006 just after the Baja 1000, the car was in great shape, but it took us a year to do the upgrades, mainly the engine and the transmission, the car set up was still original from when it was bought from Gordon, still used the same shocks, torsion bars, etc etc. We started officially racing with it in in the middle of 2008 and this year we started racing in two championships here in Baja Sur, so far this year has raced 5 races, in which it has 1 first place and 4 second places, we race in class 1 against porterīs, racerīs, jimcoīs, curryīs.

At first the car had a fortin 5 speed, then we changed the transmission to a fortin 6 speed sequential, the main reason was because we also upgraded the engine, at first the engine used pump gas and it ran pretty good but against the big V8 engine we had no chance, know with the same engine but with more HP we are in the competition. The car handles awsome in a technical road, it has a top speed of 110mph, not much, but i woulnīt imagine to go faster and get in an accident, the chasis is the original chenowth, i donīt know if Gordon made some structural modifications.

The car has never been rolled over, never been in a bad accident, we had to eliminate the torsion bars because the new transmission box is a little longer than the old one, and because of that we eliminated the torsion bars, we change to by-pass and coil-overs, i had my doubts about this, i thought the car set up was gonna change alot, and it didnīt the only difference is that i can go faster in bumps, but in the technical roads is the same, very fast and the stability is great.

Overall is a great car, we also have a newer class 1, an avenger with the new technology, obviously is an awsome car, and people ask me which car is better, but i canīt compare both cars, they are very different, you have to drive different in both cars.


Blmcd

Sic_Racing
October 7th, 2009, 12:43
Wow, im amazed GREAT CAR !!!:D