4WD Ranger with 5.0 and TTb's

[tre5]

So I have my motor and tranny in, and I go to put the transfer case in. I was going to run the 1356 t-case behind the AOD transmission. The unforseen problem is that the t-case doenst fit between the frame rails. I know at least one person has to have a similar setup. What did you do? Run the stock t-case? I am sure that there could be an adapter out there fo the stock case, but I thought I would ask here first incase someone else had already done this.
SimonSays, what do you have in your truck for a t-case?

[Dezertpilot]

U should run a TH400 or a c-6 instead of the AOD....

[SimonSays]

hahaha yeah its a pain, i used the manual trans outa the 93 f150 with t-case, i actualy set the motor in offset, and shaved some of the webing off the t-case. back at the rear output it ended up 1.5'' off set, but i used a stock width f150 rear end wich is 1.5'' offset anyway so it made my driveshaft straight anyway.

[tre5]

So you did use the 1356? I was wondering about shaving some of the webbing, and maybe even notching the frame a little. My motor is pretty well centered. I made the mounts myself, so I dont know where the AA or James duff mounts would have put it. How is the front driveline? Everything work well up there?

[Xfactor Engineering]

If the 13-56 won't work you have the option of using the 44-06; it should bolt right up.

Easy to find, simple to work on and it's actually stronger than the 13-56. The center distance is a little over two inches less so you may get by without notching the frame or cutting on the T-case.

[tre5]

What year, I am guessing F150, can I find the 4406 in? I did a quick craigslist search and only came up with one 1999 F150 with the transfercase available in AZ.

[MH20]

I got my manual shift 4406 off ebay, it was out of a 99 F150. You can find the E-shift ones a lot easier though. FYI, I the rough measurement of the 4406 is about 16" from the center of the input shaft to the edge. This will be a tight fit in a ranger frame (and if it doesnt fit I'm going Atlas II).

[Xfactor Engineering]

Your best bet would be to go with the manual shift which is a part-time unit. There is also an electric shift part-time unit but you'll need to come up with a circuit to shift it with. The third option is the electric shift TOD unit but you need the shift circuit and a controller for the on-demand clutch.

The 44-06 was first offered in model year 1996 F150. The early ones had magnesium cases, they switched to aluminum sometime around MY 1998. The 44-06 was also offered in the Expedition and the Navigator but I think only the F150 had the manual shift.

[tre5]

Anyone know what the measurment on the 1356 is? I got mine in, but I had to notch the frame quite a bit. Eyeballing it, it doesnt look like it is far from 16". With the $2,200.00 price tag on the atlas II, I think I am going to be redoing my motor mounts and repositioning the motor to the passanger side.

[MH20]

Don't have the 1356 measurement, but the stock ranger 1354 case is about 13.5"

Based on that measurement, the 4406 should fit with less than 1" of clearance, but again I haven't bolted everything up yet. BTW, the a-arm explorer guys can fit the 4406 between the frame with the stock 5.0l drivetrain.

[tre5]

That was the most popular swap that I found, in order to ditch the all wheel drive for selectable 4wd.

[SimonSays]

So you did use the 1356? I was wondering about shaving some of the webbing, and maybe even notching the frame a little. My motor is pretty well centered. I made the mounts myself, so I dont know where the AA or James duff mounts would have put it. How is the front driveline? Everything work well up there?

i don't know which t-case it is i just know it came out of the 93 F-150 w/ straight six. On mine i have a fully boxed frame except where the t-case is becasue it is inside the frame,i have it boxed on the outside where the t-case is. I also used the stock length dana 44 ttb out of the same f150 just put in uniballs cut & turned the end, and then plated, I cycle 24in of travel out of the front with no u-joint bind. I am very happy on how the truck turned out, ive had very little issues with my front suspension.

[steveG]

tre5, how are you setting up the front?

[tre5]

What did you do for pivots? Make your own? Right now the plan for mine is to use the d44 ends on the d35 beams. Lighter weight center section (cast aluminum rather than cast iron), stock pivot locations. 24" is alot, more than I would expect. Did you notch the frame, or lower the pivot location, or both?

[MH20]

Also how much lift did you cut and turn your beams for? Or is it something is better figured out after you mount the beams.

[SimonSays]

What did you do for pivots? Make your own? Right now the plan for mine is to use the d44 ends on the d35 beams. Lighter weight center section (cast aluminum rather than cast iron), stock pivot locations. 24" is alot, more than I would expect. Did you notch the frame, or lower the pivot location, or both?

I left no orignial crossmembers in the frame, my pivots and engine crossmember are custom, the frame isn't notched but was hammered back for clearance, the pivots were dropped down some to allow for maximum u-joint travel both directions. We acidently ran the truck in 4wd(with hubs unlocked but driveshafts spinning) for 300 miles last weekend prerunning the 1000 and never even knew it, we just couldnt figure out why the front end was a little noiser then normal. We ran it hard threw the nasty sand whoops before san juanico at 70mph and never bound up the cv in the middle and the truck is strapped at 23in of travel in the front.

As far as how far to cut, thats gonna depend on your ride hieght you will have to figure that out when your putting your pivot points together.

[steveG]

Jeremy, If you're going to use D35 beams I would consider using 87-88 STX-style pivot brackets. They'll free up quite a bit of travel and reduce axle-shaft and joint angles.

I'm guessing you already know you can buy a D44 TTB conversion kit.

Keep us posted on the progress!

[tre5]

Yep, I know autofab sells the setup for the d44. I just want to stay as light as possible so I am going the d44 ends on the d35 beams. I will check on the STX pivots.