Spindles

[straightaxel]

I have decided to start the front susp. on my '75 2wd chevy. I am wondering what people would suggest using for spindles? I was thinking of the stock ones from a 1ton, but I was also thinking about adapting a fabbed one for a later silverado truck. I am concered about the difference of the geometry, and don't want to buy something to measure it and find out that it is in need of major work. I also like the bearing sizes and snout sizes of the 1ton verses the 1/2ton.

Will the stock 1ton spindle be strong enough for race level pounding? I would use upper and lower uni-balls and fab up some longer control arms to match the stock geometry. Will the factor geometry curves work ok for desert use? Does anyone see any major flaws w/ this idea? I want to keep it cheap, be able to get parts anywhere, and still be able to drive it pretty fast.

[dezertdude]

Does anyone see any major flaws w/ this idea? I want to keep it cheap, be able to get parts anywhere, and still be able to drive it pretty fast.

Chevy geometry is inherently "whacked" for off road use. If it were my truck....Id hack off the upper a arm mounts and make some new ones, use the lower mounting points, and build a custom spindle. Using the stock spindle is not preferred because A. its cast B. its gonna be single sheered upper and lower and steering. And the snout or hub itself is not THAT strong.

I know you want to be able to get parts, but if you go with a 2"+ aftermarket snout and fabricated spindle you should never have to worry about breaking it....

[straightaxel]

I was considering using a spindle like that of CST that they use on their 4" late Chevy kit. It is fabbed, but is single shear. I imagine that making it double shear would not be that hard. I don't like the late chevy hub however, but I don't want to spend 2k on a set of hubs just to find out that my garage built suspension sucks! Oh well, maybe I can mill off the chevy hub bolt on, and then make one for a 6 bolt 4wd hub? What do you think?

Am I just beating around the bush, waisting time and money on inevitably spending the money on a *real fabbed spindle/hub*?

[jeff]

CST makes a different spindle for their long travel kit... totally different spindle design that uses a pair of tabs to allow for the tie rod (a rod end) to be in double shear. It's designed and built to use uni-ball upper and lower pivots instead of a ball-joint taper. Also check into the Blitzkreig spindle... http://www.blitzkriegoffroad.com/?actn=gallery&folder=admin/_images/products/18/34/large&file=Upright.jpg&pid=34 and their 2wd hub upgrade: http://www.blitzkriegoffroad.com/?actn=viewproduct&id=24&pid=58

Aloha

[DirtyD]

Hey Straightaxle,

I am currently building something like what you are looking for.

I'm using mid 80's Ford Fullsize Bronco 4wd I-beam knuckles. Check the pics. It's coming along pretty well. I had some pieces machined to fit thru the stock ball joint locations so it would have its main strength coming from the casting. The upright is supported by a tapped and bolted plate at the top of the knuckle, then boxed and welded up. Then I nickle welded it to the casting in addition to that. Welding carbon steel to cast steel can be done if its done correctly, so I understand. The way I designed it with the drill and taps, I don't think it really needed to be welded to the casting at all, just wanted the added strength.

Good luck with your project.

[Dezertpilot]

Hey Straightaxle,

I am currently building something like what you are looking for.

I'm using mid 80's Ford Fullsize Bronco 4wd I-beam knuckles. Check the pics. It's coming along pretty well. I had some pieces machined to fit thru the stock ball joint locations so it would have its main strength coming from the casting. The upright is supported by a tapped and bolted plate at the top of the knuckle, then boxed and welded up. Then I nickle welded it to the casting in addition to that. Welding carbon steel to cast steel can be done if its done correctly, so I understand. The way I designed it with the drill and taps, I don't think it really needed to be welded to the casting at all, just wanted the added strength.

Good luck with your project.

WOW that's different! Looks very interesting, why did u chose this route? How about some specs please, thanks!

[DirtyD]

WOW that's different! Looks very interesting, why did u chose this route? How about some specs please, thanks!
We went this route to try something different that was a little less expensive to build, and would be easy to find parts for at any autoparts store. It cycles 20" of travel and has an 88" stance. 13 degrees kingpin inclination, 7 degrees castor. Ride height sits around the middle of its travel at +1 degree camber. At full droop its at +6 degree camber, and at full compression its at +4 degree camber. 20.5" Lower a-arms pivot off partial stock location of 95.5 Toyota Tacoma 2wd chassis.

[offroadracer]

DirtyD
I just found this and it's about the same thing I am trying. I have the uni balls and the high misalignment spacers. At this point I have a piece of tubing and a threaded rod for the vertical part of the spindle. Non of this is welded yet though.
Your's is looking good by the way!
My question is this. Are the breaks normally in the front?? Also, what did you do about the steering?
I've seen racks and boxes with the levers being used.
This is going to be my next big task!

[Dirtrunner21]

wow thats very clean and crative.. i like how you went behind the coilover and bypass with the UCA...

[L&LMotorsports]

As for the knuckles themselves they are ok for strength, it is a good idea to cut a plate to put in on the back of the knuckle to capture the bolts that hold the snout on. We have raced this setup without the plate and ripped out a section of the knuckle and broke the rest of the bolts holding the snout on. This was on a full size truck so it took alot of abuse.