What size VW motor?

[TMorford]

I just picked up a Sportsman VW bug. Its got no motor (or trans for that matter) and I was wondering what size motor I should put in there. Im thinking an 1835 or 1915 but Im not really sure. Reliability is a huge issue, horsepower not so much. The motor is going to be built by my dad and I so I dont really need a builder reference.

[Erik Irvine]

Post pictures of the car, weight, suspension, wheels etc will play into what size you should build

[DailyPedal]

I think you are asking the question backwards...give us a budget, then try to spend the money as wisely as possible. How much are you going to spend on the trans? Because that will directly influence motor decisions. Maybe build a 1914 with dual carbs but smaller heads for good torque then spend over 2500 on a bus trans from a reputable builder. And to be honest there are no correct answers just opinions to what you are asking.

[TMorford]

Heres a picture. 10 over beam with SAW C/O and OG Foxs up front. Back has 3x3s with Fox triple bypasses. Front will run 31s (I think), rear will run 33s for sure. Not sure on what exact tires though.

It was in the classifieds a little while ago. Budget is right about 3500 - 4000 for the motor. Im pretty much split between the 1835 and 19XX The trans is taken care of, built bus box that will handle most anything.

[eliwallace]

Type 4 ?

[Doug]

I've seen many 1835s and 1914s that were plenty reliable. Either one should suit you well. Just make sure you match the compression, heads, and cam. Don't go too big on the cam. Most importantly put a BIG external oil cooler on it with a fan.

[swiftracing5]

Taylor, we had ours shipped from a guy named Bernie Bergman in Oklahoma. For about 3000 it comes with a perfect cooler with all the hoses and switches. BTW it was a 2275, and it runs cool all day and pulls like a beast.

[DailyPedal]

Heres a picture. 10 over beam with SAW C/O and OG Foxs up front. Back has 3x3s with Fox triple bypasses. Front will run 31s (I think), rear will run 33s for sure. Not sure on what exact tires though.

It was in the classifieds a little while ago. Budget is right about 3500 - 4000 for the motor. Im pretty much split between the 1835 and 19XX The trans is taken care of, built bus box that will handle most anything.

I assume that you are running coil over on the rear too with the bypass...and the box can handle anything? Really? I don't know of too many tranny guys that will tell a customer that but o.k.
Since you are asking for preference on the two, if you have a case and it is a later 8mm stud case, or will be buying a new case, build a 1914. There really is no good reason to build an 1835. The 94mm cylinders on the 1914 tend to run slightly cooler (thicker) and last longer than the 92s on the 1835-but a lot of this is determined by carb set up.
Since you already have this super trans, maybe look into building something a little bigger like a 2.0. Definately help with moving the heavy car through the desert.

[TMorford]

I assume that you are running coil over on the rear too with the bypass...and the box can handle anything? Really? I don't know of too many tranny guys that will tell a customer that but o.k.
Since you are asking for preference on the two, if you have a case and it is a later 8mm stud case, or will be buying a new case, build a 1914. There really is no good reason to build an 1835. The 94mm cylinders on the 1914 tend to run slightly cooler (thicker) and last longer than the 92s on the 1835-but a lot of this is determined by carb set up.
Since you already have this super trans, maybe look into building something a little bigger like a 2.0. Definately help with moving the heavy car through the desert.

When I was talking about the trans, I meant it will hold up to the mild motor I have in mind. Thanks for the other positive aspects of your post though.

[DailyPedal]

Well, I wasn't trying to be a total arse, just trying to make a point. If you have not spent a good amount of money and time building a properly geared trans, then the motor decision is moot. For example, most play cars do not run at 5/1600 speeds. You are building a car with more travel so has the potential to run at faster speeds putting more strain on the trans. Also, it takes a lot of horsepower to overcome a trans that is not geared properly. And in a trans gearing=$. And in reality, your usable horsepower will come from your choice of headwork and carbs, not 1835 vs 1914, and how well that horsepower is put to the ground is determined by the 5 choices available in the trans (1, 2 ,3 ,4th gear and r/p).

[Dezertpilot]

If it were me I'd run a 1904 or in that ballpark motor. Well if it was really up to me no budget id run a T4. I am sure u could get a nicely built T4 for your budget but not sure if the bus trans would mate to the T4 but not sure why it wouldnt either. Ok back to the T1, yes I would not run an 1835cc due to thinner cylinder walls. I was building a 1904cc for nitrous befroe I sold the project about 6 yrs ago. I had alot of awesome parts that the guy got for a steal! I like the 1904 over the 1914 for a few reasons, first it had the thicker 90.5mm barrels and that should help longevity. But this was also going into a DD so that was more of a factor. I was running a 76mm I think or maybe 74mm stroke to bring displacement to 1904cc, then I was running 044 heads that I was gonna have opened up for the 90.5 barrels and actually had 2 cams. I was originally going to run an Engle 120 but then decided on a 110 for more streetability. Sorry Im getting off topic but I think u would like the 1904 due to being close to a 2 liter and also having the stroker crank for more torque down below. That is what i would do, so in the end do a 90.5mm P&C and a 74 or bigger stroke crank and I am pretty sure i will be pretty happy with it. I would NOW go single carb or FI due to not wanting to constantly sync the carbs to get them to run well. A single 44 Weber should be good or Dell's I heard were nice but parts are more rare. Run the biggest oil cooler you can and get the cooler in a spot where the airflow is the greatest. Just my .02:)

[Renegade Racing]

Before you select the size, I would ask yourself, what type of use, race, pre-run or weekend stuff. And more importantly, where will you be using it. If you are planning to use it as a pre-runner in mexico or do not want to pay the for the race fuel, I would make the compression 8 to 1. This will allow you to use pump gas and in Mexico it is Pemex. This will also give you a more reliable motor. If you go higher in compression, you will need higher octane.

Just some thoughts.

[TMorford]

Also, it takes a lot of horsepower to overcome a trans that is not geared properly. And in a trans gearing=$. And in reality, your usable horsepower will come from your choice of headwork and carbs, not 1835 vs 1914, and how well that horsepower is put to the ground is determined by the 5 choices available in the trans (1, 2 ,3 ,4th gear and r/p).

Yeah, the trans Im getting will be very similar if not identical to the one that was in it before. Im getting a lot of help from the previous owner, who also happens to own the brand new Lothringer 10 car a few pages deep in this section.

As for the size debate I was just wondering which is more reliable, which from the sounds of it is going to be the 19XX because of the cylinder walls.

Help is much appreciated.

[TMorford]

If it were me I'd run a 1904 or in that ballpark motor. Well if it was really up to me no budget id run a T4. I am sure u could get a nicely built T4 for your budget but not sure if the bus trans would mate to the T4 but not sure why it wouldnt either. :)

Yeah I wrote that wrong when I responded. I meant around 4k for both motor and trans. T4 is out LOL.

[TMorford]

Before you select the size, I would ask yourself, what type of use, race, pre-run or weekend stuff. And more importantly, where will you be using it. If you are planning to use it as a pre-runner in mexico or do not want to pay the for the race fuel, I would make the compression 8 to 1. This will allow you to use pump gas and in Mexico it is Pemex. This will also give you a more reliable motor. If you go higher in compression, you will need higher octane.

MDR Class 12 most of the time. VW beam front and air cooled motor are the only real rules. Obviously got to make some runs to Oco and eventually Ill probably prerun Mexico down the road. Got to run the 91.

[Wendell #1303]

I'm kind of in the same boat, but I'm thinking of going to a water-cooled motor. I run MORE sportsman class. I've got an old 1600 type car and for the money, a Subaru gives you some real horsepower and will run on 92 octane. Just a thought.

[TMorford]

I'm kind of in the same boat, but I'm thinking of going to a water-cooled motor. I run MORE sportsman class. I've got an old 1600 type car and for the money, a Subaru gives you some real horsepower and will run on 92 octane. Just a thought.

The car is already set up for air cooled power so Im going to stick with that for cost reasons.

[TMorford]

Just figured Id let everyone know I got a 1915 with zero miles for free. Thanks for the input guys.

[metal 1]

it has been awile so how is your baja doing ???i have a similar baja just in a ghia form i went with a 2180 (82x92)with 8-1 comp it runs great on any fuel i get to put in it.it has single 40 weber with 44 venturi the cam came from web ,i just called and told them what i wanted it to do and the cam they sent is perfect ,tractor like torque with a good mid range,the bus trans is out of my stadium 1600 so the gearing is low and close ,i`m getting ready to put in my desert trans so it should have a little bit longer legs ,,good luck ....jeff