LS1 coolant air bleed location?

[motochris]

Pulled my radiator for a repair not long ago. Now I'm noticing the car is running warmer than it should. Run it hard for a few minutes and it'll see 220+....got to the cutoff this weekend..235 or so.
I'm guessing there may be some air trapped in the block, and I assume there is an air bleed screw or 2 somewhere. Anybody know?

[NoBrakes Drake]

We had that problem. So do some vettes. Make sure filler neck is highest point in system, run till warm, refill rad.

good luck.

[motochris]

We had that problem. So do some vettes. Make sure filler neck is highest point in system, run till warm, refill rad.

good luck.

It's a buggy based car...radiator is high.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-7/269162/ls1thing3.jpg

[USStuntRiders]

On my LT1 one is located on top of the thermostat housing, little brass looking 6mm guy. And another one is right in front of it on the heater core line, big flat head screw. Run car, untill temp is above 180 so thermostat is open then start cracking those open one at a time slowly.

If that dont work look up LS1 forum and there is bunch of threads about that problem/fix

-Brian

[USStuntRiders]

Ok so its on a buggy...

Idea would be crack open thermostat bleeder when COLD then run water into radiator at very top untill you get a nice stream comming from bleed hole. Then once full put cap on, get motor hot, then crack bleeder again, let bubble out air. It will hick-up so let open for awhile, 1-2 mins. untill constant stream is seen, seal it up and you should be good to go. refill overflow catch.

I know on the car applications you have to bleed if you open the rad cap EVER so not sure if that applys to your situation will rad so high up.

[Superfab]

On a LS1 there is a coolant crossover tube that runs at the end of the cylinder heads and crosses over to the head on the other side. It should have a line that comes off that so you can run it up to the high point of the cooling system (you can tee it in the return tube at the top of the radiator). If your motor only has little blocks held on by a bolt on both ends of each cyl head, you can loosen each one and bleed the air out of the cooling system . I would do each one to ensure you bled everything completely. Some engine builders use the crossover tube and some do not. It comes with it on the stock engine.

[motochris]

On a LS1 there is a coolant crossover tube that runs at the end of the cylinder heads and crosses over to the head on the other side. It should have a line that comes off that so you can run it up to the high point of the cooling system (you can tee it in the return tube at the top of the radiator). If your motor only has little blocks held on by a bolt on both ends of each cyl head, you can loosen each one and bleed the air out of the cooling system . I would do each one to ensure you bled everything completely. Some engine builders use the crossover tube and some do not. It comes with it on the stock engine.

I'll look closer. I believe mine does NOT have the crossover tube, just the blocks, as I saw that area on the rear of the heads and thought it looked like it could be a bleed location.
I'll check one of the LS1 forums as well and see what I find, Thanks.

[squirrel80]

Get one of these. They are available on most tool trucks (Snap On, Matco) and I have found to be the best way to get the air out of a cooling system.

http://www.pelicanpartsexpress.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT591_pg2.htm

[NoBrakes Drake]

Ours is in a buggy, too. But air pockets could be trapped in the lines, even after we bled the little block. By raising the front end up high (we just put front wheels back on trailer), the air was able to escape.

I had a type 181 Thing but never had bigger than an 1835.

[motochris]

I'll use an Airlift on the system tomorrow. That's what the local GM mechanics use to fill the cooling systems..... http://www.johnsonmfg.com/temp/J360CS.htm