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View Full Version : Cage to Frame Question(DUMP)



MX808
July 30th, 2008, 00:07
How would you do it? Should it be to the top of frame? or bent into the side?

J_Lothringer
July 30th, 2008, 00:12
To the top will be way stronger..........................

MX808
July 30th, 2008, 00:17
Thats what i was thinkging but i have seen so many build pics i have been getting confused. Thanks.

loufish
July 30th, 2008, 00:30
When you consider the cab width to the frame width on a stock frame truck, then coming into the side is more practical.

On most trucks to have the main hoop and the front downbars to land on top of the frame, you would have to have them start coming in towards the frame at about the lower dash level and then they're still coming down at an angle. Too much angle and the lose their crush strength from top loads...

Giant Geoff
July 30th, 2008, 14:16
Like Jeff said, land at the top of the frame, if you link the truck later you will not have to cut any tubes out for your upgrade.
The only tube I land on the side of the frame is near the front cab mount, this will not interfere with suspension parts.

DUMP!
July 31st, 2008, 14:55
To the top will be way stronger..........................

That's not nesaccerily true. If the frame (original "C" channel type) is not boxed then this is not stronger.


When you consider the cab width to the frame width on a stock frame truck, then coming into the side is more practical.

On most trucks to have the main hoop and the front downbars to land on top of the frame, you would have to have them start coming in towards the frame at about the lower dash level and then they're still coming down at an angle. Too much angle and the lose their crush strength from top loads...

I would tend to agree with the "fish" just to add a bit to what he has stated you also get a lot more weld surface by connecting at the side of the frame rail because your coming in on an angle. I used to have some computer models drawn up to illustrate this but I can not find them now. I'll keep looking.

Dump

BRINGTHERUCKUS
July 31st, 2008, 14:56
Hooray for DUMP!

1450-ranger
July 31st, 2008, 14:58
I think it also comes down to how effectively you tie the cage to the frame. I hate seeing the cages that bend 90* and hit the frame square..

DUMP!
July 31st, 2008, 15:55
I think it also comes down to how effectively you tie the cage to the frame. I hate seeing the cages that bend 90* and hit the frame square..

So true!!!

Above anything else what guys seem to loose site of is what the cage is doing and how it best protects the people inside. Below are some new models I did to show what "I" consider to be the best examples of what to do and what not to do. Remeber this is only the main roll hoop structure we are talking about. The first shows what McClintock is taking about and also shows the least effective and weakest way to tie the main roll hoop into the original box chassis, which by the way is shown as a boxed in section. Some chassis will not be boxed from the factory and would require this be done for added strength.

The second picture shows what Jeff is talking about. It is better but not the best in my opinoin because in the event of a roll there is still the chance of crush (oil canning) the chassis box section depending on roll tube size versis the cross section of the box chassis. Also there is not as much weld surface as there could be and maybe the most important for the younger guys who always seem to scratch there head wondering how to weld the top of the cage you can not lower the cage in the body to weld the top if it is tied into the top of the box chassis in this mannor.

The third picture is what I consider to be the most effective way to tie the main roll hoop into the chassis. It gets you the most weld surface you can get for a stronger weld joint and it allows you to drop the cage down inside the body so that you can weld the top of the cage. And as pointed out by Mr. Fish depending on where and how you make the last bend before hitting the frame rail with the roll hoop it could be the best result for top impact without failure.

Dump

1450-ranger
July 31st, 2008, 16:01
Well said and shown. I thnk it comes down to the constraints you have at hand (like everything else). How you would tie a Ford Ranger's cage to the frame isnt going to be the same as an f100.

Jon

Steven_Tolbert
July 31st, 2008, 16:47
So I have to bring this up, what about when guys attach the cage to the frame using a leaf spring bushing at the end of the cage? I know they do this to make it removable but is it that strong?

partybarge_pilot
July 31st, 2008, 17:55
So I have to bring this up, what about when guys attach the cage to the frame using a leaf spring bushing at the end of the cage? I know they do this to make it removable but is it that strong?


As long as the bushing mounts are done right, they are very strong. A lot of old pre-runners were built that way with bolt on mounts for the bushings. Walker loved doing it that way and some of his old pre-runners are still runing around like that.

loufish
July 31st, 2008, 22:54
So I have to bring this up, what about when guys attach the cage to the frame using a leaf spring bushing at the end of the cage? I know they do this to make it removable but is it that strong?


In the 80's very common, I built full cages using urethane bushings (AutoFab)back then....Now you know how old I am....:eek:

I still like them for some small projects. I've also machined Delrin bushing halves for other projects(not cages)

MX808
August 1st, 2008, 00:41
I will do some sw sketchs tomarrow and run them by you all for further explantion.