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View Full Version : Sealing a ranger cab w/ cage



SJredranger
August 23rd, 2008, 14:34
So I'm planning to start an interior cage on my ranger and I want to cut into the cab in the corners above my third window so I can tie it into my bedcage. This is my driver so when it starts raining, I don't want it leaking. Anyone have suggestions on sealing the cab? bondo? grommets?

IslanderXJ
August 23rd, 2008, 22:26
Weld it up and paint it?

skoti
August 24th, 2008, 18:09
Yeah, I would say weld it up. Just make sure your cage is tied in sufficiently to the sheet metal, and solid body mounts, otherwise the cage shifting around may cause cracking/deformation of sheet metal.

Co-Dog
August 30th, 2008, 21:31
You can weld it, but it will crack. The body moves independently of the frame due to rubber mounts and frame twist.

I have seen it done with boots. Kind of like a shifter boot riveted to the body and cinched around the roll bar.

nismogizmo
September 1st, 2008, 01:13
You can weld it, but it will crack. The body moves independently of the frame due to rubber mounts and frame twist.

If you properly make your cage, there will be no minimal to no frame flex. You have to also properly tie in your cab to your cage so they move as one. They wont crack if this happens.


I have seen it done with boots. Kind of like a shifter boot riveted to the body and cinched around the roll bar.

Honestly i hate the boot things you are talking about. its kinda like a band aid for not tying that cab cage in correctly.

RRP FABRICATION
September 1st, 2008, 21:31
If you keep the tubes going through the cab tight then TIG weld it with some silicon bronze and call it a day.

Co-Dog
September 1st, 2008, 22:40
If you properly make your cage, there will be no minimal to no frame flex. You have to also properly tie in your cab to your cage so they move as one. They wont crack if this happens.

Now ya got me worried.:eek: We tried welding the cage to the rear of the cab where it passes through and it cracked. I've also seen this happen on Class 5 cars a number of times. VW's don't even have a frame. That's what brought me to the conclusion that it just wasn't a good idea to attach to the body anywhere there was only a single layer of sheet metal.

Maybe we don't have the body tied to the cage well enough.

nismogizmo
September 2nd, 2008, 00:40
Now ya got me worried.:eek: We tried welding the cage to the rear of the cab where it passes through and it cracked. I've also seen this happen on Class 5 cars a number of times. VW's don't even have a frame. That's what brought me to the conclusion that it just wasn't a good idea to attach to the body anywhere there was only a single layer of sheet metal.

Maybe we don't have the body tied to the cage well enough.

If it were me, I would attach it to as many places as possible. A pillar (windshield), B pillar, where ever it passes through sheet metal, firewall to engine cage, floor pan to frame, and lastly cab cage to bed cage. I cant imagine much flex at that point.