rear cage ideas

[1971Ford]

i did this before, but had a differant design and have changed some things, like i think ill keep the bed floor in

its getting close to the time where my dad and i will be ordering the 2" DOM tubing for the truck build, but i need some advice on how the bed cage will lay out on my 71 f-250 LWB 2wd.
things to keep in mind-
-truck is reaallly heavy obviously
-i need to be able to put a med. size dirtbike and a small pit bike in the back. (dirtbike down the center, pit bike wedged in)

- the design i just came up with is what you see, then i decided to add in the pink bars which will be removable so you can remove them for dirtbike space and put them back in with grade-8 bolts for the race (what do you think?)
-i originally planned on cutting out the bed floor, but im thinking it would be better to leave it in so i can counter sink the fuel-cell better and i wont have to make a platform for the dirtbike etc. BUT, i can cut it out (save weight and not have to tub the wheel wells) and make a plat form down the center of the frame for the dirtbike to sit on and the cell to countersink on.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/bumpsidekid/cagedesign.jpg

so what do you think about the general design, and about the removable bars, and leave the bed floor in or cut it out for what i need :confused:

edit: just noticed that the pink removable bar closest to the cab doesnt need to be removable since the dirtbike cant go past the X anyways. so just the one closest to where the tailgate was would be removable.

[loufish]

The truck already has a cab cage right?
The 2 spares are wider then your drawing, find something to get a better scale for those...
A side veiw drawing would be nice also...

[1971Ford]

The truck already has a cab cage right?
The 2 spares are wider then your drawing, find something to get a better scale for those...
A side veiw drawing would be nice also...

we will be doing the cab cage at the same time as the bed cage. all at once. i know what were doing for the cab though. yeah the spares look skinny in the picture but it doesnt matter too much since there is plenty of room betweent he bedside, and where the frame rail is.

ill start on a side view

[1971Ford]

sorry this is the best i can come up with
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/bumpsidekid/SUPER.jpg

[Scott_F]

OK kid, here are some ideas to think about. The tubes that I crossed out may be redundant if you plan to have star* diagonals in your B hoop. You need the diagonals either inside the cab, or right behind it, but you don't necessarily need a double*star. You can if you want, but it seems you are not going full kill with this build.

Behind the cab I added the yellow kickers and big X, along with the red diagonals, which will add a lot of strength. If you design this carefully, you might be able to add these tubes and still get a dirt bike in there. Depending on your cab cage design, you might be able to use a big upsidedown V in place of the big X, to make more room for the dirt bike.

If you feel ambitious, make another paint drawing, without the cab, but showing your plans for the cab cage and how it ties in to the bed cage. Show the frame rails too. Use different colors for different sections of tubes so it is easy to understand.

[1971Ford]

thanks,
i do like your design better.


just whipped up this based on your modifications

-bottom of green X (and its uprights on the sides) will weld on top of where the shock will mount
-orange tubes connect above shock as well, and then "V" into a horizontal tube which is located just before the bed-cage connects with the in-cab cage
-purple tube is removable
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/bumpsidekid/untitled-1.jpg

for the in-cab cage, we will be copying BroDozer's cage pretty much.
here is where the bed cage structures connect to the in-cab cage
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/bumpsidekid/connections.jpg
here is another picture of brodozer's cage
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/bumpsidekid/brodozer4-2.jpg

thanks for your help, let me know if it can be further-improved, if carrying a dirtbike on top of a counter-cunk fuel cell is a bad idea, and anything else.

[Scott_F]

Here's a couple more ideas for you. Connect the bed cage to the B hoop as shown by the red tubes and red circle. It is better to connect at a node or intersection than in the middle of the tube like a T. Inside the cab, it would be good to add two more diagonals as shown in red.

The green X or yellow V is a matter of personal preference. I would lean towards the V because of how it would tie into the cab cage, and it gives more room for the dirt bike. My roof cage design is very similar to BroDozers, and I am using a V behind the cab.

[1971Ford]

thanks again for the reply

i see what you mean by connecting at the sides of the in-cab cage instead of T-ing into the cage like that, but wouldn't it be good to T into the cage like the Brodozer did since that is directly above the frame rails? i know you know allot more than me, just wondering.
and is parking a dirt bike on top of the counter-sunk fuel cell a bad idea? do you think a cell is strong enough? the dirt bike isn't that heavy (2 stroke 100cc) and i would think a cell would be tough, but i don't want to dent the fuel cell.

[Scott_F]

It is best to avoid a "dead tube" or T joint.

Your fuel cell should be fine IMO. To distribute the weight more, you can put a channel over it for your wheel, or you can slide your ramp under the rear wheel after the bike is loaded. If the bike is centered, and the plumbing coming out of the top of the cell is centered, you may have a problem. If the fuel inlet plate is offset from center, you may be ok. You'll figure it out. Also, since your bike is very small and light, you could consider a bumper mount system for it.

PS: The A pillar starts at the frame, goes up along the front of the door, and along the windshield frame to the roof. The A hoop is two A pillar tubes and a cross tube along the top of the windshield. This is often made from one bent tube. The B pillar or hoop is similar, but directly behind the seats and rear of the door. The C pillar or hoop would be used in an extended or four door cab. In the BroDozer design, there is a "halo" U shaped tube at the roof, held up by two A pillars and two B pillars.

[1971Ford]

good ideas on keeping weight off the cell. i did think about the fuel sender stuff in the way of the tire, see the grey colored "ramp" in the picture.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/bumpsidekid/cage.jpg
even did a picture of the ramp :D
we can weld nuts to the bed floor and slip bolts through tabs welded to the ramp so we can remove it easy.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/bumpsidekid/ramp.jpg

[Scott_F]

You forgot the downtubes from the top of the B pillars to the bed cage. It should look like a W. Also, where the green tubes meet at the front, it would be good to tie into the cab * with a short tube.

[GunnSlinger]

hey check out the camburg stock full build .. im sure you could get some great ideas of how to build the rear cage.. they have theirs nice and simple.. http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31883&page=2

also .. if this is going to be a race truck i wouldnt account for a dirt bike anywhere in the plans.. race trucks are typically made for "business" (ya know bare bones, only the "must haves") might wanna keep that in mind

when i started out fabricating i would sometimes get sidetracked and over think things ... just try not to over think things and just keep things simple (tends to be the cleanest and the most efficient) \

keep up the good work and just keep doing research and everything will work out in the end

see ya in the dirt
adam

[Scott_F]

Adam, I have the impression that they are building this as a multi-purpose trail truck, with some occasional racing. Oh, and over thinking can lead to analysis paralysis. :)

[1971Ford]

You forgot the downtubes from the top of the B pillars to the bed cage. It should look like a W. Also, where the green tubes meet at the front, it would be good to tie into the cab * with a short tube.
haha oops.
here we go..
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/bumpsidekid/cage-1.jpg


hey check out the camburg stock full build .. im sure you could get some great ideas of how to build the rear cage.. they have theirs nice and simple.. http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/sho...t=31883&page=2

also .. if this is going to be a race truck i wouldnt account for a dirt bike anywhere in the plans.. race trucks are typically made for "business" (ya know bare bones, only the "must haves") might wanna keep that in mind

when i started out fabricating i would sometimes get sidetracked and over think things ... just try not to over think things and just keep things simple (tends to be the cleanest and the most efficient)

keep up the good work and just keep doing research and everything will work out in the end

see ya in the dirt
adam
ive thought about loosing the dirtbike idea, but sense we wont have trailer for at most a year and will be driving the 71 to races until then, we will have to take the dirtbike (it is torchure watching everyone ride things around the pits and not having your dirtbike there, and having to walk so far..) in the back of the 71 when we go to the races to spectate. once we get a trailer we can put the bikes on the trailer with it and make the removable tube, non removable and maybe add more strength.
so the truck wont be raced until we have a trailer, and when we have a trailer we can (If needed) add more strength to the cage.

[GunnSlinger]

got ya!!.. didnt realize it wasn't going to be spending the remainder of it's life as a racer.. no biggie .. keep up the good work kid... the sport needs more young guns like yourself (well at least ones that are willing to listen) ahha

see ya in the dirt
adam

[HardCharger81]

Just build a receiver hitch style carrier. Like the one people use to haul mt. bikes and such. I built one that I hauled my street bike around on, and it worked really good. Don't need it, take it off! Easy!