What are you using for band saw blades?

[NicksTrix]

curious what people are using for verticle band saw blades? i've got a Grob 18V and cut a variety of materials. from thin s/s tube to say .375 plate, some 4130, alum.... the basic fab stuff.
what are you using and how's it hold up?

i'm had good luck with the Lennox diemaster 2. i run from 1/4 to 1/2" wide blades, about a 14 tpi for the bulk of the work.
i bought some sarrett material and man i am really disappointed. doesn't last long, glad i got a deal on the roll.

so what are you guys using in your shops?

[Superfab]

We use the diemaster 2 also in the vari tooth 1/4" wide. Allways had the best luck with it. The Starrett blade sucks. Tried it once and never again. The vari tooth seems to work on everything from 4130 to 7075 aluminum. The price is a bit steep but the blade life is good if you stay away from flame cut or laser cut edges on material.

[NicksTrix]

thanks superfab. have you found a deal on them anywhere?

[Superfab]

I just do an internet search for the best price + shipping.

[SteveinAZ]

DieMaster 2's here also...no deal though. Even though it's a good bi-metal blade, they just don't hold up all that great when in a vertical saw and pushing and twisting inconsistantly...our horizontal blades probably outlast the verticals 50:1 if you calc the square inches of material cut. We generally run a 14-18 variable, and try not to cut anything too heavy. Remember, blade break-in is still important in a vertical, just never to seem to get a lot of use out of it though.

Steve

[NicksTrix]

thanks for the input. what break in proceedures are you guys doing?

[SteveinAZ]

Sorry Nick, didn't see the break-in request until now. On the horizontals, we try to cut about 50 square inches of solids, even 304 stainless is fine, starting at about 1/4 feed, and gradually ease up to full feed by the end of the 50 inches. On a vertical, you kind of try to do the same, but it's tough to do unless you are using a Roll-In type saw...just make the first cuts with a low feed and if possible, slow down the blade one click or so. The idea is to keep from micro-chipping the ultra sharp teeth until they round off a tiny bit, and then they last much longer. The best saw guide I have seen is from Lennox - you might be able to download one, if not, get one from where you buy your blades, a lot of good info in there.

Steve

[NicksTrix]

thanks for the info steve. i've always just followed the slow and easy process at first. i just need to find a deal and get some good lenox blades. the sarretts material i bought was for a roll of 100' at the price of what a single lenox will run. it's another you get what you pay for situation. life goes on...
i appreciate the insight.

[SteveinAZ]

Nick, good chance the Starrett material was plain 'ol carbon hard-back, not a bimetal, which is what the Diemaster II's are...so you possibly are not comparing apples to apples. Check with J&L/MSC on their prices, and then call them to see if they will bargain. I have found that when I ask if they have one of their 25% off sales going on, and they don't, they will usually do 20-25% just for the asking, and ship UPS red at ground prices. With the discount, it may make them "reasonable", but they still wonk be cheap.

Steve

[NicksTrix]

10-4 thanks steve. i'll see if i can get a discount. never know unless you ask...