Better than scotch brite

[jrtorres]

Ok my boss left the superlite outside all night right after if got washed and today i spent ALL day scrubbing the thing down with wd-40 and scotch brite..my fingers are numb and i probably inhaled a gallon of wd......is there a better way to get rid of this surface rust...beside not leaving it outside or mop and glow

[Ol' Curmudgeon]

Schaffers "Citrol" cuts the rust better and quicker than WD40. Gets down in the pitting better and I assume the citric acid eats the surface rust. In any case, it's much quicker than WD40 but you still have to use the scotch brite pad.

There's been several threads about various coatings to minimize future rusting.

[jrtorres]

thanks for the tip! i'm gonna try it for sure.....and ya if i had any say about what went on in the shop they would all be coated to prevent this crapola but...i'm the new guy at the moment so i don't haha

[mikeyfrombc]

i have some scrub pads i bought can,t remember where i think RONA in the paint department , they are 2" wide , 4" long and maybe 1/2" think , they come in a pack of 4 , there is several colours/grits like scotchbrite they work really well i use them on my lathe for taking the dark skin off DOM , they work way better when compared to scotchbrite pads do on the lathe

[Tipracer]

There are mandrels available that allow you to insert the abrasive material into a chuck so you can use a cordless drill....way faster and it saves your fingers...or make them yourself

[D-rek]

Muratic acid....the stuff you put into your pool. works incredible

[randy1123]

Muratic acid....the stuff you put into your pool. works incredible

Be careful with that, try not to breath too much of it.
You will need to dilute it? It leaves a film left behind, and don't drip any on the concrete.

[jrtorres]

Muratic acid....the stuff you put into your pool. works incredible

hmm i have a bunch of that sitting in the back yard....thanks for the ideas guys...i'm running of patience..there are 5 superlites in the shop and i'm on number three in four days :rolleyes:

[joe1369]

Be careful with that, try not to breath too much of it.
You will need to dilute it? It leaves a film left behind, and don't drip any on the concrete.

How much do you dilute it??? 2-1 with water??? and how do you neutralize it or is that not a big deal, muratic cleans bricks great, but wash off with water don't you get more rust??? or is that when you go with the wd-40??? or ?? tool black, I think I have heard it called.:cool:

[D-rek]

I don't dilute it. I just use it in a spray bottle and scotch brite pad. I use rubber gloves as well. I just wipe it off with a rag and then put some oil on to protect the metal.

[diirk]

There are mandrels available that allow you to insert the abrasive material into a chuck so you can use a cordless drill....way faster and it saves your fingers...or make them yourself

Any links for the mandrels for a drill? This is something I could really use....

[Tipracer]

Now that you see it you understand how easy it is to make

[diirk]

No kidding. A bolt, a couple of washers, a nut. Throw in a couple of tack welds and you're done. Are the scotchbrite pads round?
What's the best pad for removing paint/powdercoat to prep for welding? Specifically using either a drill or die grinder?

[Tipracer]

I have used scothbrite pads that i have cut round and stacked a couple on but they would spin, the other problems I had was if I made the abrasive too long and used a higher speed it would fall apart rather quickly, some companies(3m) make small sanding attachments that are round and have replaceable sanding elements but the are kinda expensive and take off too much material. The solution I ended up using was a 4x6 sheet of scotch brite(btw there are other mfgrs. of this type of abrasive that last a lot longer but they get expensive as well and are not as readilly availible) cutting it into 4 equal pieces and stacking it onto the mandrel, torquing the nuts together kinda hard and using a medium speed w/ wd-40, you can use a die grinder to get into the small spaces, it will save you a lot of time and really save your fingers from fatigue.

[jrtorres]

thanks guys...i finally finished today....and they make disks for air tools of scotch brite

[dirtdudeaz]

the air tool scotch brite pads work well. They are maroon in color. If you are polishing aluminum especially or anything else, spin the pad on some bar soap before you go and it'll make it last a little longer.

[foley]

I live out here in TX where EVERYTHING rusts.

I find that PB blaster is much more effective than WD40 for coating metal to resist rust while working on it.

Good part is that Tractor Supply Co sells PB blaster in 1 gallon cans you can use with a sprayer.

[DamnitJuice]

what about using this stuff... http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sem69508.html
friend of mine worked for a hot rod shop and siad they would use it all the time for body rust. goes on like water using just a sponge style paintbrush.
as for coverage its about the same as getting something wet. basically apply the stuff to mild rust, it eliminates it, and protects it without and elbow grease involved.

[joe1369]

what about using this stuff... http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sem69508.html
friend of mine worked for a hot rod shop and siad they would use it all the time for body rust. goes on like water using just a sponge style paintbrush.
as for coverage its about the same as getting something wet. basically apply the stuff to mild rust, it eliminates it, and protects it without and elbow grease involved.

I like it, looks like elbow grease in a bottle!!!!! Anyone try it???:)

[diirk]

Sounds like it does the same thing as Naval Jelly.

[atomicjoe23]

Back when I was in the Navy on a sub we used something just like that on the boat all the time while we were out to sea and weren't allowed to paint. . .

. . .forget what it was called, but it worked great. . .scrub the area with a wire brush to get the worst of the flaking rust & paint off, paint some of that stuff on with an acid brush and you were good to go, most of the time we didn't even bother to repaint it after that. . .spent 5 years on the boat and I never saw a single place that had that stuff applied to it re-rust ever again! So if it works as well as the stuff we used it would be a great thing to use, the other cool thing is that it didn't come off when pressure washed or inadvertently recieved a steam bath.

[diirk]

Naval Jelly is dayglow pink gel. It goes on easy enough. And has worked well in the past when I've used it.

[Co-Dog]

How much do you dilute it??? 2-1 with water??? and how do you neutralize it or is that not a big deal, muratic cleans bricks great, but wash off with water don't you get more rust??? or is that when you go with the wd-40??? or ?? tool black, I think I have heard it called.:cool:

It's been a very long time, but I remember something from Chemistry 101: Muriatic is diluted hydrochloric acid. NEVER add base (water) to an acid. If I remember right, it is like adding water to boiling oil. It jumps right out on to you! You must put acid into the base. Just remember that you add acid to your pool water, not the other way around.

I would start out with a quart of water and add a couple of tablespoons of acid. See how that works, you can always add more acid if needed. The fumes can be nasty, so the least amount of acid that does the job is what you want. It will definitely have its way with the rust. You can neutralize it with baking soda and water. Wear safety glasses and chemical gloves. I'm serious, this stuff is no joke.

[joe1369]

It's been a very long time, but I remember something from Chemistry 101: Muriatic is diluted hydrochloric acid. NEVER add base (water) to an acid. If I remember right, it is like adding water to boiling oil. It jumps right out on to you! You must put acid into the base. Just remember that you add acid to your pool water, not the other way around.

I would start out with a quart of water and add a couple of tablespoons of acid. See how that works, you can always add more acid if needed. The fumes can be nasty, so the least amount of acid that does the job is what you want. It will definitely have its way with the rust. You can neutralize it with baking soda and water. Wear safety glasses and chemical gloves. I'm serious, this stuff is no joke.

Thanks for the sound advice. My neutralizer question was addressing after the rust is gone, what stops the acid from continueing to etch. I suppose baking soda and water is the logical choice. Thanks

[therail]

thanks guys...i finally finished today....and they make disks for air tools of scotch brite

Never seen a Roloc before?

These things work wonders for flat, or semi-flat areas. Not too fun for tube though....

[Maxxrhino]

Don't usemuratic acid whatever you do!!! it takes everything out of the metal and etches it real bad. bad bad idea!!!

[atomicjoe23]

I don't know about welding onto it (yet), but I just used Eastwood's Rust Converter on a '49 Jeep Willys P/U frame and I'm pretty impressed with that stuff. . .it prevents rust 100% and it can be more easily removed for welding (if necessary) than paint and more easily re-applied.

[etl450]

Just buy cheap clear from your local auto paint supplier. When we used to make motorcycle frames, you just hit them with a quick coat and it prevents rust forever. We did this for shipping, but since you prep all weld areas, this would be an easy fix. You can even use the aerosol version but its a little pricier. The bad thing about any chemical is that it will effect the outer properties of the metal.