View Full Version : linear actuators on lightbar and design
scary fast hummer
August 20th, 2009, 06:06
I am going to build a 4 Hella HID lightbar for my Hummer that folds back like ones you see on the cool pre-runners. It will mount just behind the C pillar and fold up with a linear actuator. The truck already has HID headlights and will also have a pair of big halogen Hellas on the front to fill in the spot between the HID coverage and the bumper.
I could use some help in designing the bar. The A pillar (windscreen) is about 4 inches lower than the B pillar. The C and B pillars are level with each other. Its a frickin long way from the A to the C pillars, about the same as a superduty crewcab.
So, how high up from the C pillar should the bottom of the lights be when in the UP position?
Somebody please school me on actuators and how to mount one. I plan on keeping mounted permenantly. Does the actuator need a stop to keep it from shaking? How long of a throw do I need for the actuator to lift and adjust the light bar? Those kind of answers would be most appreciated.
Any pics would fantastic!
TIA,
DSRacing
August 20th, 2009, 07:24
Here is a thread with some photos and information,
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13109&highlight=Lightbar
scary fast hummer
August 20th, 2009, 07:43
Thanks, I had seen that thread before but could not find it again.
I'm still very interested in pics or info on raising a light bar from horizontal to vertical. Like where to mount the acuator rod on the light bar for best lift/ease on acuator, etc. I just dont want to spend money doing something stupid that I could have found out here first!
matt_helton
August 20th, 2009, 20:47
heres one that i built.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/7200/100_5686.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/7200/100_5685.jpg
and with the actuator removed you can see the 2 rear mounting tabs.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/7200/100_5742.jpg
rharriman
August 23rd, 2009, 01:30
Why use a motor, just do what Gordon did and use a lever with stops, if it works for gordan why not for you, LOL. I looked for a thread but couldn't find one right away, if I do I will post it.
Good luck and I do like the one Helton put up but it could be done WAY cheaper with a simple lever and no electrickery =)
matt_helton
August 23rd, 2009, 15:36
i agree but when the customer gives you the $400 actuator and says "put this on my truck" you just do it. :)
Wild bill
August 23rd, 2009, 21:09
I had a linear on my TT and took it off. The lead screw had too much backlash that the lights vibrated bad and freaked my eyes out. I went with a manual adjuster and all is good. What I do miss is adjusting the lights quickly when you go up or down a hill.
scary fast hummer
August 24th, 2009, 00:51
Why use a motor, just do what Gordon did and use a lever with stops, if it works for gordan why not for you, LOL. I looked for a thread but couldn't find one right away, if I do I will post it.
Good luck and I do like the one Helton put up but it could be done WAY cheaper with a simple lever and no electrickery =)
True, true. If my truck was used only as a race truck I would go with a manual lever. But, our race trucks have to be road legal (really, not Mexico legal :rolleyes:) and we do a lot of road work connecting the special stages (aka, race sections). So, to keep the truck even remotely weather tight, I cant have rods and levers going through the roof.
My favorite light set up was the lights in the wing of the Big Oly trucks, back in the day...
1450-ranger
August 24th, 2009, 22:50
Build the lightbar such that it pivots on bushings (nylatron, hard poly etc) so that you can add some friction to the system in order to avoid the situation mentioned by wild bill.
Pharaoh XJ
August 25th, 2009, 03:37
How does a manual one work anyway ? can you post pics ?
piratelab
August 25th, 2009, 19:37
This is a manual one from gordons truck.
.125 4130
The round hole is the piviot for the center of light bar
The radius with cutouts is for the "mechanical actuator" which you operate by hand.
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/PirateLab/IMG_3051.jpg
Manning
August 25th, 2009, 20:25
Heres a video of one I did on my SxS...I didnt do it for clearance, just did it for adjustability while driving in the dunes & desert..up on the switch is lights up, down is down.. I love it, works greeeeat:cool:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w72/bryanmanning/th_VIDEO0003-1.jpg (http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w72/bryanmanning/?action=view¤t=VIDEO0003-1.flv)
Heres a still of it...
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w72/bryanmanning/IMAG0305-1.jpg
Mike330R
August 27th, 2009, 22:46
Not sue if this helps, pretty simple. I used a jet boat trim swich and arm to adjust the bar while driving.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/78904-1/lightbaractuator.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94850-1/actuator-switch.jpg
Superfab
September 4th, 2009, 21:27
I used a actuator from this place on our class 1. The prices are reasonable. They even sell boots for many of these to keep the elements out. I wired it with a double pole momentary on- off - on switch mounted next to the shifter to actuate it.
http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=86&products_id=91
kdm73091
September 7th, 2009, 17:33
heres one that i built.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/7200/100_5686.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/7200/100_5685.jpg
and with the actuator removed you can see the 2 rear mounting tabs.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee252/prerunner13/7200/100_5742.jpg
what inch stroke is that actuator??
matt_helton
September 7th, 2009, 20:21
i think its 4.5"ish or so...
progresive
August 29th, 2011, 04:35
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Zambo
August 29th, 2011, 20:51
You can also use gas shocks, like the kind that hold your trunk lid up, to dampen the vibes on your lightbar.
Ramsey_ElWardani
August 29th, 2011, 22:45
You can also use gas shocks, like the kind that hold your trunk lid up, to dampen the vibes on your lightbar.
That is what I use on my 1600 car where weight and aero drag really matter. Start with the light bar down for no wind drag and pull the release when it gets dark so I don't have to stop. Works great!
Rough_Rider_Racing
September 3rd, 2011, 03:39
i use a small arb air compressor and an air ram for mine. Works a treat. It runs 110 psi and is air operated up and down. The bar is a very simple design and uses heim joints so there is no vibration.
The ram,
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd231/nasty-nav/Mobile%20Uploads%201/IMG00233-20110630-1527.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd231/nasty-nav/Mobile%20Uploads%201/IMG00235-20110630-1528.jpg
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd231/nasty-nav/Mobile%20Uploads%201/IMG00234-20110630-1527.jpg
and a little vid i made while drinkin beer lol.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd231/nasty-nav/Chick%20Winch%202010/th_VID00002-20100604-2238.jpg (http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd231/nasty-nav/Chick%20Winch%202010/?action=view¤t=VID00002-20100604-2238.mp4)
You can do the same thing but with an actuator if you didnt want to run an air set up.
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