4x4 ibeams

[steveG]

http://www.autofab.com/mdl_44_ranger.htm

Longer beams, wider track width, more travel, less camber change, larger, stronger differential, more gear selections, more traction aid selections, the axle-shafts do not taper down when they enter the differential, better bearing spacing, lots of new trick aftermarket upgrades like steering knuckles, brakes, etc...

It's a big list and a damn cool upgrade.

[B_burk]

I was wondering about just switching out the steering knuckles and rotors to d44 while keeping the d35 beam. A few pages back picone mentioned doing this on widend beams, I was wondering about doing it on stock width beams.

[steveG]

I see what you're saying now. If I'm not mistaken, Picone cut the ends off and installed D44 ends. If you're extending the beam this is a good option, but if the beam is staying stock width here's another way.

http://www.mappyjack.com/Dana44.htm

[dislocated1]

On the truck Picone built, we used the D35 ends, just reamed the lower ball joint with a tapered bit and ran the D44 camber adjuster

[B_burk]

The Autofab kit definitely has my interest, I'll be looking into that later on when moneys not so tight. For now if I just switch to the D44 knuckles and spindles with the stock width beam will I see any gain in track width?

[escodan760]

any one build ibeams

[steveG]

any one build ibeams

No. This entire thread and its contents are a farce.

[151fab]

Every time I see this thread pop up I get all excited and rush to see whats new. Today I found this:


any one build ibeams

Don't do that!:mad:

[retroblazer]

I'd like to re-ignite this thread for a specific requirement. I want to know what most desirable option there is for a Class 3 Bronco set-up. An earlier post said that Class 3 would limit him to going only two inches wider on each beam over stock. But that's is only one way to look at the rule. The rule allows the track width to be 4" wider than stock, so if you didn't move the pivot points, then yes, he's right. However, if you moved the pivot points, then you could widen the beams more. So, what is anybodies practical experience in building custom arms of this sort?

[down4glamis]

just got done reverse engineering my rotor/bearings/ and snout on the d35 front end. gonna make the race spacer that will slide over the snout, inbetween the bearing races. and we were going to make one for inbetween the races inside the rotor, but the new rotors we picked up already had a nice size in there. im not sure if the pot metal they make them out of will will allow it to deform and crush under a load. going to make all these spacers, getting new pinch nuts for the d35 ends (will also work for a d44 also, they use the same size and thread nuts FYI). d35 hubs dont like hard miles, specially in barstow...

[Thunderbird]

here is my ranger with the autofab kit. I used autofab brackets and Southwest performance radius arms.

[1450-ranger]

just got done reverse engineering my rotor/bearings/ and snout on the d35 front end. gonna make the race spacer that will slide over the snout, inbetween the bearing races. and we were going to make one for inbetween the races inside the rotor, but the new rotors we picked up already had a nice size in there. im not sure if the pot metal they make them out of will will allow it to deform and crush under a load. going to make all these spacers, getting new pinch nuts for the d35 ends (will also work for a d44 also, they use the same size and thread nuts FYI). d35 hubs dont like hard miles, specially in barstow...

The rotors i bought at autozone had a spacer between the races..

[151fab]

I'd like to re-ignite this thread for a specific requirement. I want to know what most desirable option there is for a Class 3 Bronco set-up. An earlier post said that Class 3 would limit him to going only two inches wider on each beam over stock. But that's is only one way to look at the rule. The rule allows the track width to be 4" wider than stock, so if you didn't move the pivot points, then yes, he's right. However, if you moved the pivot points, then you could widen the beams more. So, what is anybodies practical experience in building custom arms of this sort?

Moving the pivots further apart from each other would help to lessen the camber curve and therefor allow more usable travel. BUT; you would increase the axle plunge, you would be interfering with the drive shaft (after 1"), and you would run into the frame sooner during compression. All these things would negate the benefits of the longer beams.

A few other Class3 Bronco notes:
The track-width is measured from the tire centers, so you could add 4 or more inches per side to the beams if you ran a greater offset wheel. This would benefit the tire scrub and the durability of the hub/steering/spindle/etc.

Class3 Broncos (late model) don't suffer from a lack of travel they suffer from a lack of durability.

[retroblazer]

Moving the pivots further apart from each other would help to lessen the camber curve and therefor allow more usable travel. BUT; you would increase the axle plunge, you would be interfering with the drive shaft (after 1"), and you would run into the frame sooner during compression. All these things would negate the benefits of the longer beams.

A few other Class3 Bronco notes:
The track-width is measured from the tire centers, so you could add 4 or more inches per side to the beams if you ran a greater offset wheel. This would benefit the tire scrub and the durability of the hub/steering/spindle/etc.

Class3 Broncos (late model) don't suffer from a lack of travel they suffer from a lack of durability.

So what are the primary weaknesses of this design? My understanding is that the inner axle u-joint is the final or ultimate fuse in the system.

[mounty71]

Wow after reading through this whole thread, i have learned so much about ttb suspensions and the options there are for improving travel numbers. One question i have though is, back on page 6 or 7 i think, SteveG asked about using a D44 stock half shaft on the passenger side for extended beams, then using the stock D35 passenger side shaft and cutting it down and using it for the driver's side shaft. No response was ever given. So instead of cutting and sleeving the stock D35 shafts, or spending a lot of money on a new custom length shaft, is this possible?

Also, for the 4" extended camburg beams, camburg's site says $1500 for new axle shafts, but Jerry Zaiden posted on here several pages back that extended shafts range from $800-2000. What does the $800 option consist of?

[mkiefer]

I figured i would throw some pics up of a few 4X4 frontends that ive done for everyone to see. All fullsize though. Around 16" of travel

[Ryan B]

Wow after reading through this whole thread, i have learned so much about ttb suspensions and the options there are for improving travel numbers. One question i have though is, back on page 6 or 7 i think, SteveG asked about using a D44 stock half shaft on the passenger side for extended beams, then using the stock D35 passenger side shaft and cutting it down and using it for the driver's side shaft. No response was ever given. So instead of cutting and sleeving the stock D35 shafts, or spending a lot of money on a new custom length shaft, is this possible?

Also, for the 4" extended camburg beams, camburg's site says $1500 for new axle shafts, but Jerry Zaiden posted on here several pages back that extended shafts range from $800-2000. What does the $800 option consist of?

i just ordered the most economical axles ctm sells.

they are just an extended version of factory axles made of 4140? some kind of alloy i don't remember what he told me.

they were about 650 bucks with shipping.

call Jack at CTM 760.450.0006 ask what your options are, they can do pretty much anything.

[mounty71]

And that $650 was for two axles? Or just one? Turns out i most likely won't be needing axles after all, but thanks for the info.

[151fab]

So what are the primary weaknesses of this design? My understanding is that the inner axle u-joint is the final or ultimate fuse in the system.

The front axle u-joint presents the most problems under extreme travel conditions. However I don't know that that would end your race (in the longer distance ones, anyways). Hubs, steering, and frame mounts would be the locations to pay the most attention to. The front drive system would be to qualify for the class and to help you through the silt, etc. your not going to run it the entire time. However, there would be definite advantages to ride quality and control if you were to use it full time, especially considering the short wheelbase and higher center of gravity inherent with the class.

The disclaimer to these statements is that I do not race and am only using the knowledge I've gained from reading and following the sport from the sidelines. Since no one else has chimed in with real world experiences I figured I'd try and help out.

[Ryan B]

And that $650 was for two axles? Or just one? Turns out i most likely won't be needing axles after all, but thanks for the info.

both.

[Desertbound]

So I have a question in regards to the D44 swap onto a ranger. It seems to be a pretty straight forward install with minimal fab work on a 4wd ranger, but seriously how difficult would it be to put stock D44 beams on a 2wd ranger? Has anyone done it? My truck is already fully built from the firewall back (Backhalfed, 4 linked etc.) But the front needs a redo, its currently just extended beams with a coilbucket.

I want to make my truck 4wd, how much more work will it be as opposed to say throwing equal length beams on the thing? I havent had a chance to look at the crossmember on a 4wd ranger, how much different is it? Would it really pose that much trouble?

My plan is to just buy a bone stock 4wd bronco for about $500-700 and use the entire drivetrain minus the rearend in my ranger. (5.0, aod trans, t-case (If itll fit between ranger framerails) and the beams) Whats your guys thoughts on this?

-Rob

[SimonSays]

So I have a question in regards to the D44 swap onto a ranger. It seems to be a pretty straight forward install with minimal fab work on a 4wd ranger, but seriously how difficult would it be to put stock D44 beams on a 2wd ranger? Has anyone done it? My truck is already fully built from the firewall back (Backhalfed, 4 linked etc.) But the front needs a redo, its currently just extended beams with a coilbucket.

I want to make my truck 4wd, how much more work will it be as opposed to say throwing equal length beams on the thing? I havent had a chance to look at the crossmember on a 4wd ranger, how much different is it? Would it really pose that much trouble?

My plan is to just buy a bone stock 4wd bronco for about $500-700 and use the entire drivetrain minus the rearend in my ranger. (5.0, aod trans, t-case (If itll fit between ranger framerails) and the beams) Whats your guys thoughts on this?

-Rob


mine was a 2x to start then picked up a wrecked f150 5spd with t-case, put in a mustang 5.0 (throtle body is lower and fits under the hood easier), the stock f150 t-case was really too wide for the frame but i was able to get it to work, just a pain to get in and out. the crossmember did need minimal cutting and the susp. mounts were completely custom but no harder then equal length brackets would be. I personaly would not use the aod trans. but if your getting a great deal on one great. you would be much happier with a c6.

[Desertbound]

Good to know at least someone has done this on a 2wd ranger. Your prerunner was a big inspiration for me wanting to make mine 4wd by the way. one of my roommates is a bronco afficionado and mentioned that he didnt think the tcase would fit between a ranger frame easily. maybe a V8 explorer t case will be the ticket? My only reason for wanting an aod trans is for the overdrive, my plan is to keep this thing very streetable not to mention the fact that a complete running bronco would prolly cost me less than buying a trans by itself.

Do you have any pics of your beam pivots? Ive seen videos of your truck and it looks to work very very well.

[tre5]

Mine was and is a 4x4. I am running a 5.0, aod, and 1356 t-case. You could use the 5.0 out of the donor truck and just get a different upper and lower intake. I swapped my mustang upper and lower out for the cobra upper and lower. Bought the cobra stuff on craiglist for $200, and I sold the regular mustang stuff on craiglsit for $150. So you can definatly find the intakes to swap onto the truck motor. As for fitting the t-case you need to move the motor way over to the pass. side of the truck. Plan on running the exhaust on the outside of the pass. frame rail, and ditching the smog pump. I moved mine over about 2", and still had to clearance the drivers side rail to get it to fit. An AOD tranny should be fine. A lot of people don't like them, but as long as you put a little money in it, and watch the temp, it will work. If I was really going to be beating my truck hard, and racing it, I would do a c4 and a NP205 t-case. The NP205 is gear driven, and the BW1356 found in the bronco or f150 your thinking of is chain driven. Other differences are weight. The 205 is cast iron, compared to the cast aluminum 1356. Guess which one weighs a lot more.

[SimonSays]

Good to know at least someone has done this on a 2wd ranger. Your prerunner was a big inspiration for me wanting to make mine 4wd by the way. one of my roommates is a bronco afficionado and mentioned that he didnt think the tcase would fit between a ranger frame easily. maybe a V8 explorer t case will be the ticket? My only reason for wanting an aod trans is for the overdrive, my plan is to keep this thing very streetable not to mention the fact that a complete running bronco would prolly cost me less than buying a trans by itself.

Do you have any pics of your beam pivots? Ive seen videos of your truck and it looks to work very very well.

its good to know someone else likes my truck to. lol
youve seen video? i want to see it. lol ive never gotten to see the videos of my truck moving.

v8 exploder t-cases are a awd t-case so no 2x choice or lowrange choice. only allwheel drive.

I will need to get some pics of the beams and pivots, ill get some pics of the t-case in the frame as well. im on my way to laughlin so it will have to be when i get back. lol

[RooTs]

i just ordered the most economical axles ctm sells.

they are just an extended version of factory axles made of 4140? some kind of alloy i don't remember what he told me.

they were about 650 bucks with shipping.

call Jack at CTM 760.450.0006 ask what your options are, they can do pretty much anything.


Great to know someone bought a pair. I spoke to Jake back when his shop was in SJC abought building a set of widened axles for camburgs widened TTBs. I would image you might be the first or close to it with his new axles. Have you tested them out yet?

[Desertbound]

its good to know someone else likes my truck to. lol
youve seen video? i want to see it. lol ive never gotten to see the videos of my truck moving.

v8 exploder t-cases are a awd t-case so no 2x choice or lowrange choice. only allwheel drive.

I will need to get some pics of the beams and pivots, ill get some pics of the t-case in the frame as well. im on my way to laughlin so it will have to be when i get back. lol


There were a couple vids on youtube of it.

I thought the explorers had AWD t-cases as well, guess i was right.

[SimonSays]

There were a couple vids on youtube of it.

I thought the explorers had AWD t-cases as well, guess i was right.

lol cool nice to know. the only thing i really have of footage is its onboard cam no exterior shots.

[151fab]

There's some very well documented swaps for the Exploder's tranfer case that replaces it with a much better unit. These would probably fit your application better. You could probable find info about it at Dezert rangers or an eploder forum.

[mounty71]

You would be able to find all the info you'd need on a 5.0 swap from explorerforum.com. I'm no expert on this subject, but this is what i've have read on that forum. Everyone would probably tell you a 5.0 out of an explorer/mountaineer would be the best choice. I've heard that that was the best version of the 5.0 ford ever put into their vehicles. I also believe the transmissions behind them will fit more easily into a ranger. You'd want to get an AWD engine/trans/tcase combo, and then swap out the AWD t-case for a BW4406 from an f150 or expedition, which is a common swap for these trucks considering ford never offered true 4wd with the V8, only AWD or 2wd. Hope that helps you get a direction.

[alwazonedge]

just to try to get an answer on the original post, and cus im curious. has anyone done or wieghed the benefits of uniballs instead of balljoints at the knuckle end of the beams? im buildin a set right now, il have picutures up soon, and intended to use unibals at the end, but am curious if this is a waste of time.

[78crew]

Here is my setup on my '78 f-250 crewcab. It is the dana50, built by RPM Fab in Phoenix.



uhhhh ok, maybe not!? How do I get a picture on here?

[jeff]

Type your message... instead of clicking on POST QUICK REPLY hit the Go Advanced button... then click on Manage Attachments. From there it should be biz as usual.

Aloha

[78crew]

OK round two....

"78 f-250 crewcab. Dana50 extended 3.5" both sides.
work done at RPM Fab in Phoenix.

[steveG]

Very cool! Do you have some more pics of the front suspension?

[toddz]

Very cool! Do you have some more pics of the front suspension?

Here's some that I happened to take when it was sitting at RPM a few months ago. The TTB in the '78-'79 chassis is a neat build. Lots of travel with a very low profile truck.

Todd Z.

[steveG]

Thanks for the pics Todd!. I like the concept on the steering, I've considered trying the same on my Bronco. I've always wondered why the designers of the Superlift Superrunner kit didn't do the same. They were so close as it was.

I also dig the use of tie rod ends instead of heims. They look beefy enough and will last forever as long as they're good quality and stay greased.

[tre5]

cool looking truck.

[Ryan B]

Here's some that I happened to take when it was sitting at RPM a few months ago. The TTB in the '78-'79 chassis is a neat build. Lots of travel with a very low profile truck.

Todd Z.

very cool, not many of those flying around in the desert!

[-Dustin-]

I really like it.

[rlury]

we made a jig at home to cut and turn the beams. they come out perfect and its easy, there gusseted and strong. ill take some pics and post them.

[78crew]

Here's some that I happened to take when it was sitting at RPM a few months ago. The TTB in the '78-'79 chassis is a neat build. Lots of travel with a very low profile truck.

Todd Z.

Thank's Todd!! I seem to have all of those pictures on a different computer.

[OutToLaunch]

rlury from Fanta Se,I hung out on top of the trailer with you guy's about 3 year's ago at Laughlin.When you were pitted next to the Jimco ,and the Monster Garage TT's. I've got a couple project's lining up a Bronco and a Ranger.So where are those pic's ? I'll P.M. ya.

[DKThree]

My Ranger is mostly stock with only a 2.5" coil lift and cam kit. I want to keep that on and install the STX high rider brackets I got a hold of along with new radius arms (camburg or giant). I'm thinking that this will take care of the slight positive camber I've got going and let me get close to a 0 deg. cam and help out the handling. Do you guys see any problems with this? Thanks for the input.

[BajaDale]

Here's my beams i'm in the proccess of fabbin' up right now. Uniball inner pivots and heims on the radius arms. Stock width but they are cut and turned.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f191/Nyeste316/P3240039.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f191/Nyeste316/P3240038.jpg

[steveG]

My Ranger is mostly stock with only a 2.5" coil lift and cam kit. I want to keep that on and install the STX high rider brackets I got a hold of along with new radius arms (camburg or giant). I'm thinking that this will take care of the slight positive camber I've got going and let me get close to a 0 deg. cam and help out the handling. Do you guys see any problems with this? Thanks for the input.

That would probably work great. With the right coil and shock you could probably get close to 12" of travel.


Here's my beams i'm in the proccess of fabbin' up right now. Uniball inner pivots and heims on the radius arms. Stock width but they are cut and turned.

Looks good!

[BajaDale]

More recent pics:
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f191/Nyeste316/P3290002.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f191/Nyeste316/P4050012-1.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f191/Nyeste316/P4050013.jpg

[DSRacing]

How close does that bump stop come to hitting the brake line? It looks like if there is any movement in that hard line it will get smashed.

I'm assuming from the second photo there may be a welded tab and a bulkhead fitting securing the line.

[BajaDale]

How close does that bump stop come to hitting the brake line? It looks like if there is any movement in that hard line it will get smashed.

I'm assuming from the second photo there may be a welded tab and a bulkhead fitting securing the line.

Yeah the line is about 1.5" from the contact area of the bump stop, the line is mounted to a welded tab right next to it. So unless my bump stop rips off the frame the line is safe.:)

[CopyKat]

I doubt mine are worthy of credit after seeing some of the crazy builds in this thread.
But here it goes.

Start
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35003.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35007.jpg

Painted
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35011.jpg

Assembly
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35025.jpg

Installed
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/front%20susp/SuperD35/SuperD35036.jpg

[steveG]

You're worthy Joel. All (OK, most hehe) TTBs are welcome.

I think they look good. Most of the plating and trussing is unnecessary in my opinion, but I suppose it's better overbuilt than under.

[CopyKat]

I think they look good. Most of the plating and trussing is unnecessary in my opinion, but I suppose it's better overbuilt than under.

I agree. So when I had it all apart I figured why not.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/Newpose005.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/Newpose006.jpg

[SimonSays]

I agree. So when I had it all apart I figured why not.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/Newpose005.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/BIV%20Bronco/posershots/Newpose006.jpg

i hope your doing something with that steering.... that doesnt look good. way too much toe in.

[cs_drums]

I have been following this thread for a while and im in the process of putting together my f-150 i was just wondering if anyone would want to lend/sell/rent/ trade a jig for beams
Let me know.