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singlehanded
January 10th, 2004, 18:24
What is the normal amount of space in between cabcage and cab(if any) or whats acceptable before bending a whole new piece? When using plate as a doubler do people usually hole saw out the plate and put the tube thru it or just weld each piece to each side.
thanks

Trying to get my b pillar made with 6 bends. And I am pretty new to bending to exact measurements but getting better.

partybarge_pilot
January 10th, 2004, 19:09
When you try to line up that many bends,it turns into a bnig pain in the arse. Find a way to make shorter runs. Plating the side of the cab and running the bar behind the dash full width makes a nice starting point and removes about 2 bends. The top half usuially doesn't need more than 3 bends then. Much simpler.

singlehanded
January 13th, 2004, 21:50
got some shots of my b pillar. There is about 1 1/2 inches from corner of cage to corner of truck and about 2 inches from corner to side. I assume that is more than I would want,right? Hers a few shots. And using the doubler plate at the bottom I can just weld the inside cage to the plate then weld a tube underneathto the plate then the frame? Is that alright for all 6 cab to frame points
thanks for any info wanna make sure I get this right the first time......
John

singlehanded
January 13th, 2004, 21:52
another

singlehanded
January 13th, 2004, 21:53
last one

NorCal_Prerunner
January 14th, 2004, 00:15
John,
That is plenty tight to the cab in my opinion. The distance from the cage to the cab is not super critical as long as it's close, and you have plenty of clearance for your helmet. I am sure you plan to plate from the cage to the cab in many areas as well.

NorCal_Prerunner
January 14th, 2004, 00:34
As for the doubler, my impression of it was to sandwich to plates together, one inside the cab, one on the bottom of the cab with bolts, utilizing as large of a plate as possible. Weld the bottom leg of your B piliar to the plate in the cab, then bend up a short tube and go from the plate on the bottom of the cab, to the frame. Nothing to do with a hole saw........

singlehanded
January 14th, 2004, 01:02
Thanks for the info. Do you have any pictures of your project? Would love to check them out..
laterz,
John

Kritter
January 14th, 2004, 08:33
For the B pillar you want to use the upper seat belt mount to tie into becuase it is very strong. For teh front tube you tie into the windshield area. Whenever welding to that crap sheet metal for plating purposes or any reason for that matter use Silicon Bronze...it will keepteh sheet metal from cracking down the road.

With a good design, damage will be minimal in a rollover.

http://animalhousedesigns.net/rolled/roofdent.JPG

NorCal_Prerunner
January 14th, 2004, 12:28
John,

you can check out my junk here:
http://www.dezertrangers.com/cgi-bin/ib/ikonboard.cgi?s=7e36f0f4d22480463ae6e8595dcfcafd;a ct=ST;f=2;t=4431

Kritter, Silicon Bronze? Can you explain a little?

SpareChangeRacng
January 14th, 2004, 12:40
Silicone bronze rod is what he was talking about. The rod and therefore weld is a bit softer and allows for some flex. Silicone bronze rod is good for use on floors (bodywork) or tieing the body into the cage - stuff like that

singlehanded
January 14th, 2004, 12:52
Do they make it for mig or just tig?

SpareChangeRacng
January 14th, 2004, 13:18
I'm not sure. I believe I've heard before that it was available for MIG, but I'm not 100% positive.

In_the_works
January 14th, 2004, 14:15
I thought that it was kind of like brazing rod, to be used with oxy/ace. Anyone know for sure?

SLR
January 14th, 2004, 15:24
The rod is just a Filler, You can use with TIG or Oxy, Depends on what your welding...

Rprice
January 14th, 2004, 21:32
anyone notice that when plating the cage to the cab does it burn the paint? I'am starting my cage hopfully within the week but Jd2 needs to get off their a$$ and ship it out its like 2-3 weeks backorder after ive waited 3 weeks already.
p.s. anyone got a 1.5 model3 die for sale or barrow.

Kritter
January 14th, 2004, 21:36
obviously you grind off the paint where it is being welded, but if you use the silicon bronze it does not burn at all since it has such a low melting point...I cant speak for MIG.

Brian Mapes
January 14th, 2004, 21:44
I think he means does it burn the paint to the outside.

dadomin8r
January 14th, 2004, 22:00
In the windshield area (A pillar), and most areas you're talking about, it is double walled and no , it probably won't burn the outside.

Rprice
January 14th, 2004, 22:28
Thanks guys! i meant the outside sorry, got to be more specific.

singlehanded
January 17th, 2004, 13:46
Here is what I did after messing up that 6 bend b pillar. I think it turned out good the corners and top couldnt be any tighter.

singlehanded
January 17th, 2004, 13:51
corner

NorCal_Prerunner
January 18th, 2004, 19:24
So did you cut and spice the main hoop? What's with the two short pieces? What are your plans? I did a bunch more work on my junk this weekend if you want to take a look.
http://www.dezertrangers.com/cgi-bin/ib/ikonboard.cgi?s=7e36f0f4d22480463ae6e8595dcfcafd;a ct=ST;f=2;t=4431

singlehanded
January 18th, 2004, 19:57
What I did was build two pieces to make up the b pillar and they will connect to a center bar that will be connected to the front and back top bars. So what I think you thought was two small bars notched to the b pillar actually is just a straight bar that the two sides of the b pillar are attached to. It will be removed after finishing the rest off the pieces that connect to the top. Then I going to drop the cage thru the floor so I can weld all the top pieces, then pu**[IMG]http://cdn3.race-dezert.com/forum/images/mexico-flag.png[/IMG] [I]ĦAy, caramba![/I]****[IMG]http://cdn3.race-dezert.com/forum/images/mexico-flag.png[/IMG] [I]ĦAy, caramba![/I]****[IMG]http://cdn3.race-dezert.com/forum/images/mexico-flag.png[/IMG] [I]ĦAy, caramba![/I]****[IMG]http://cdn3.race-dezert.com/forum/images/mexico-flag.png[/IMG] [I]ĦAy, caramba![/I]** back up and make doubler plates for the back 4 mounts and weld the a pillar to the frame and then finish the rest of the bars and seat and dash mounts. Looks like your truck is coming along real good cant wait to race you.

NorCal_Prerunner
January 18th, 2004, 20:40
I don't think it is a good idea to have your main hoop, the one above your head, made from two pieces, spliced together. I am curious to hear what some others on RDC have to say. I'm sure others will chime in with their opinion. Good luck, keep posting progress pics.

matt_helton
January 18th, 2004, 22:52
spliced tubes are fine as long as they are sleeved inside and connected with the seem welded and a few rosette welds. actually stronger that a single tube.

Bryan_D
January 19th, 2004, 09:38
Are they race legal?? I have mine done like that and was told by someone that they arent legal and also by another that they are. They are sleeved with the hole drilled welded and the seem where they meet up.

matt_helton
January 19th, 2004, 11:59
race legal?? i dont know. i dont see why not. but think about when you wreck your race car and you have to cut off a section of chassis and re-build it?? how do you re-attach the new chassis tubes?? you sleeve them right? isnt that the best and strongest way to accomplish this? thats the way ive seen tons of race cars done and how i have many tubes on my truck.

geoff
January 19th, 2004, 15:20
NorCal -- that truck is badass. nice cage work, i really like the idea of that subframe running alongsie the frame rails, it really makes things cramped if you do it the traditional way (i wish i thought of this earlier http://www.race-dezert.com/vb3/attachments/old/images/graemlins/confused.gif)

NorCal_Prerunner
January 19th, 2004, 15:30
Geoff,

Thanks for the comp. I'll keep updating the post on DR with progress shots.