Cutting Long Travel Coils??

[GASPORTS4EVR]

A while back I purchased a Fabtech L/T kit with 4" spindles, coils that are too long, and an eng. cage that never worked for my 97 GMC 1500, I wish I would have gone with CST, but oh well. Anyway, since then I have upgraded the cage, added limit straps. I love my trucks "old school" pre-runner look with the 88-98 body style and 7" bulge front glass, however, it is just so high. What can I do to lower the front? Cut the coils? Will the L/T kit work with smaller spindles? Will smaller coils work with the L/T kit? I can't afford to buy a new kit, the only good thing with the kit is when I go to pick up my girlfriend and notice she is wearing a skirt! LOL!Your feedback is greatly appreciated!!

Chris

[jaferri]

more then likely the spring you received are the 1500-3 model. That's what they gave me, after looking into these spring I found that they are also the same as the 3/4 ton springs. If you want a softer spring rate and lowered stance try the 1500-1 or -2 springs which are for the 1/2 ton regular cab models. Those springs combined with the Long travel arms ahould put a bit more leverage on the springs and squat the truck down more.

Josh

[FullsizeFun]

My truck is a 92 gmc 3/4 ton, ext cab, long bed. I have the long travel with the lift spindles. I am running the stock 3/4 ton springs in it. it sits right in the middle of the travel. 6-3/4in up, 5-1/4 droop travel, 12in total. It rides soooo much better than with the lift springs. It is just a hair too sofp, I am thinking about getting the 1 ton springs, they are the same length, but a little stiffer. but I will wait til i put my air bumps on and see how it is. the lift springs are actually stiffer than the 3/4 ton springs, they are the same wire thickness with more coils. I think you should be able to cut the coils down no problem. I would cut the coils 1 loop at a time. cut 1 loop off of both and put em back in and drive it. I wouldn't cut more than 2 loops off. then put some good shocks and air bumps, and you are set.

[Jack]

When you cut coils, it get stiffer.
Sounds like stock springs are the ticket, go to a pick a part or salvage yard and be done.

[Waldo]

Hey Arny - Chrome the damn things, that'll make 'em softer and they'll look DISCO too!!! J/K

Did you get your front bumper fabbed up yet? Shirley??

Later dude.

Brannon

[GASPORTS4EVR]

This is the kind of feedback I was looking for! Thanks guys. My coils are 1500-3, I think I will try the 3/4 or 1 ton factory coils. I have 4 bilstein 7100 series shocks up front, which coil do you guys think will work best, coils are a pain to install and I would like to do it just once more.. I think if I cut the lift coils, I'll be messing with it all week.. Thanks again..

Chris

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Hey Waldo, I just saw your post, good to hear from you! The bumper is next, I was at Bakers on Sat. and he will be doing it, I just want something simple/modern like the one on Gabe Lara's Ranger.. I'll give you a call later tonight..

Chrisl

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Hey Dave,

I was thinking about air bumps also, exactly where are you installing them on the frame? Do you have any pics. of your truck? Years back I fell in love with the 88-98 style pre-runner the Herbst's have, so I dig these style trucks..

Chris

[FullsizeFun]

I definitely think this is the best body style. I dont have the bump stops installed yet. I am planning on installing them so they hit on the upper arm. I dont have the dual shocks on the upper arm. If you have the dual shocks you could probably mount them just outside the dual shocks, so they hit on the end of the upper arm. make a flat plate for the bumps to hit on, maybe something that bolts to the upper balljoint bolts on top of the arm.
For springs, is your truck ext cab or std, long or short bed?
Mine is ext cab long bed, and the 3/4 ton springs are a little soft, but very smooth on the little stuff.

[Steve_HKmtrsprts]

Here is my old Fabtech LT kit. I ran 2 2.0 Foxes and the 1500-2 spring. Rode great.
http://www.race-dezert.com/wwwthreads/files/90968-Dual%2BSide.jpg

[Steve_HKmtrsprts]

I wanted to step it up a bit and got the CST kit, cut the top of the coilbucket out, had King make me a shock that had a 16" shaft on an 8" body, so the body would be above the frame and put the an SAW airbump on the frame in between the top arm. It worked really well, better than the 2 Foxes. I also ran the 1500-2 coil and it sat pretty low and wide. Just wish I would have kept it longer to build something in the rear.
http://www.race-dezert.com/wwwthreads/files/90969-Driver%2BSide.jpg

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Thanks for the pic Dave, I powder coated mine silver and cut off the sway bar mount and relocated the bump stop mount also to give it a different look. I have an extra cab 3-door short bed. I have my truck apart on my driveway, the longer it sits, the more I want to change. What coils would you reccomend? Also, I want to upgrade my tie rods, like yours, where's the best place to get them? I heard they make noise and wear out much faster than stock rod ends.. is that true? Thanks again..

Chris

[FullsizeFun]

I think you should try and cut your springs first. the wire size is the same as the 3/4 ton springs, they just have more windings. I think 2 more than stock. I think you can get the height and ride you want by doing this, and not spending any money. I will count how many windings are on my springs when I get home tonight.
Your truck is a little lighter than mine, so you shouldn't need the 1 ton springs.
If you do cut your springs and they wind up not working, the 3/4ton springs can be bought at NAPA, or wherever for like $90.
I made the tie-rods myself, they are 3/4in heims and 1inx3/16 wall DOM. I have had them on the truck for a year now, they have'nt worn out yet, and dont make any noise.

[FullsizeFun]

here's another pic at ride height.
Mine sits real nice, I have the 4-1/2in spindles and stock springs. I clear 35's no problem with glassworks fenders.

[FullsizeFun]

full droop

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Thanks Steve & Dave for the pics. Steve, your CST kit and custom fab work is pretty sweet... Man I wish I knew then what I know now! Today, i'm going to yank out the coils, and if I have any fingers left, I'm going to cut a ring or two from my 1500-3 coils, then go to the extreme sports expo @ the O.C Fairgrounds, have a couple adult beverages, then take my two cut rings, drive to Fabtech, and throw them throgh their window...LOL...

Chris

[FullsizeFun]

sounds good Chris, make sure you let us know how it turns out.
I am waiting to mount my air bumps, I am going to convert the arms to uniball. Hopefully I can get 3 or 4 more inches of travel. I might have to make a whole new upper arm.

[jaferri]

Well how did it go???? I'm having the same troubles with my truck and only want to take the front end apart once.

Josh

[GASPORTS4EVR]

The project is still in progress. I have a little Accord I use as my Daily Driver, so the longer my truck sits on my driveway, the more I want to re-do... So far I have re-done the eng. cage, and I am in the process of adding heimed tie rods, limit straps, and cutting 1 1/2 loops from my coils.. The hardest part has been going through and re-mounting all of the electronics which were mounted to the inner fender aprons.. I tried to modify the aprons to re-use but just didn't like the way it looked.. Here are a couple crappy pics. I took a couple weeks ago, it's starting to look pretty sweet now, I'll take some new pics. soon. Thanks for everyones input..

Chris

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Whoops, here they are..

[GASPORTS4EVR]

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Hey Steve? In your photo of your old GM, it looks like you cut & removed your core supports on the side and still utillized your aprons, how did you support all of the electronics? I know the older trucks don't have all of that crap, what year is yours??

Chris

[Project1500]

Gassports you have to build a whole new support for the computer, fuse block, intake and battery. I kept my inner fender I didnt want to have to hassle with it its alot easier on the pre vortecs to take out your inner fenders because there isnt anything in there!

Also are those hanneman fenders?

[jaferri]

Here are some pic's of how my truck sits right now without the LT kit installed. The springs are so stiff that the upper A Arm stops sit right on the coil buckets. I thought that once I installed the LT kit that it would put more leverage on the springs and help out, but according to what I've heard here it wont.

[jaferri]

another angle

[jaferri]

Last one. I have done all the work on my truck so far to include the paint and bumpers. I also have some 1.5x.250 wall DOM at I am using for my steering/tie rods with 3/4 heavy duty heims. The rear will be getting a fully trussed 9" with a 4 link set up out back utilizing a suburban tank in the rear to maintain smog legal.

Josh

[TumbleBug]

That's a SWEET lookin' Truck!!! Nice work man.

[jaferri]

Thanks, I'd love to ditch the side bars but the wifes only 5' and she can't get in without them. I'll post more pic's as it progresses.

Josh

[TumbleBug]

Yeah, ya wanna play, ya gotta keep the Mrs. Happy! http://www.race-dezert.com/vb3/attachments/old/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[FullsizeFun]

Hey jaferri, Truck looks good.
1.5x.250wall is a little overkill for tie rods.
You probably want to lower it about 2-3 inches by cutting the coils. It helps your upper ball joints and idler arm last longer.
What do you have in the rear?

[jaferri]

I know that the tie rods are over kill but it was avail and free. I plan on lowering the truck more and the new arms I have are using uniballs so that should help a little. Right now the rear is stock with a block in it. I haven't even tried to use it hard cause I know the block would shift. I have a fully trussed 9" going in the rear with a cage system, triple bypases and some SAW coilovers. Up front will have an engine cage and dual Doetsch alum shocks. I would have preferred to go coilovers but I already have my money spent and dont want to have to shell out the big $$ for another setup. Although I have thought of building my own boxed in set using the geometry of my long travel arms. Right now I only have 2 cars and I can't afford to have one down for longer then a weekend. I work in sales for a welding supply company and average 1K miles a week!!! - Josh

[ntsqd]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks, I'd love to ditch the side bars but the wifes only 5' and she can't get in without them.

[/ QUOTE ]

There is a product out there for the disco trucks that would work well for you. It's a motorized step that swings down when you open the door. I believe they would actually be closer tot he ground than your sidebars when the door is open. Door closed they are Really tight to the body. The shop I did some work in put a set on the F-150 disco truck that belongs to the daughter of a friend. Those things were really fast, but had a clutch in them so that you couldn't get pinched. PM if you need me to track down which brand they are.

[jaferri]

I'm really not going to worry about it to much for now. I'm going to get a dedicated work car soon and then the truck will be more for play. Thanks for the offer though.

Josh

[Steve_HKmtrsprts]

Hey Chris.
I had a 94 Chevy. In the pics I removed the wheel weels and inner fender just to work on it. I was able to replace the stock wheel wells, and the inner fender well after all the fabwork was finished. I just had to cut out a small section in the middle of the well so the shock could go through.
Steve

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Hey Steve, that makes sense, your pic. through me for a loop when I saw the aprons installed without the core support. i did the same thing with mine, just cut out an area for my shox and ran the stock fender/apron.. This is how it looked last year before it's current makeover..

Chris

[GASPORTS4EVR]

The rear, and my next door neighbor, who helps me with all of my fab work. It's funny, him and the rest of the neighborhood motorheads easily turn a 2 hour job into a 2 day job..Ha, Ha..

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Whoops! Here it is..

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Josh,
You did a great job on your truck, I really dig the paint and glass selection you choose.. Sounds like your rig is in for a major makeover, can't wait to see how it turns out..Check into those retractable steps so you can ditch the nerf bars.. I have never been a fan of steps or bars, however for the wife and kids, it is sometimes neccessary, whenever I have kids in my truck, they hang on the storage net behind the pass. seat and pull on the belts.. But once I finish my makeover and slam my rig to Trophy truck specs. that won't be a problem no more...

Chris

[Project1500]

jaferri It looks like you have the stock lower control arms. So you just have the 7" fabtech kit not there complete LT kit.

[jaferri]

I have a LT kit of unknown origin not yet installed. I only want to tear my truck apart once so I wanted to make sure there wasn't a better way. I'm not sure of the maker of my new arms. Look alot like CST or poss Fabtech but they are about 3 1/2 inches wider per side. I just got my new brake lines so I can install the kit, but like I said I only want to do it once cause it's a real pain. I've had the front end completly apart 3 times now and I can do it in about 6hrs from start to finish, but it still SUCKS!!!!

Josh

[GASPORTS4EVR]

You are right Josh!! Sometime it does suck, however you gotta admit that there is something totally cool about tearing apart your rig and modifying it's appearance and performance, using "your" tools and "your " hands.. I took this pic. about an hour ago, a stray piece of metal penetrated my long sleeve shirt and took a nice gouge out of my wrist!! I love it!! Do you have any pics. of your unknown A-arms??

Chris

[jaferri]

Here is one of the lower arm. 2 more pic's to follow.

[jaferri]

another

[jaferri]

Upper Arm.

[jaferri]

Anyone know who may have made these???? I was thinking of removing the busings on the uppers and replacing them with heims and then having the balljoints replaced with bearing cups and running sphericals top and bottom.

Josh

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Josh,
I have never seen arms like those, it looks like someone copied a fabtech LT set. They look strong, throw them on! It seems like quite a bit of work to convert to heim & uniball, maybe you could sell those and have some new ones fabed to your likes. Where did you get those anyway??

Chris

[jaferri]

All of the main tubes are 3/16 or 1/4 wall DOM!!! The bottom arms alone weigh 41lbs each, very beefy. The tops seem to be any other CST or Fabtech copy though. I picked them up off our good friend E-bay fro $300 for the set, and they came with the Moog Problem Solver ball joints already installed. There's hardly a scratch on them. - Josh

[jaferri]

Chris, Did you cut your coils yet. I got sick this weekend and could get around to it. What did you cut them with and how much did you remove? After looking under my truck my coils seem almost all the way compressed compared to when they are sitting off of the truck. I figure by cutting out 1 loop it will shorten them up and give them a little more room to work in the coil bucket/arm area. Let me know- Josh

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Hey Josh, bummer you were sick. I cut just a bit more than 1 loop, I left a little more on the driver side coil to compensate for the weight.. I used a pheumatic cut-off wheel, then cut a 45 at the end so it will fit in the lower A-arm seat. Both coils took like 20 minutes, i'm going to paint em and throw them in tonight..

Chris

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Josh, it looks like you ditched your inner aprons when you installed your glass, if you did, would you have any pics?? I am still trying to mount my eng. comp. spagetti in a clean manner.. Thanks..

Chris

[jaferri]

CHris, I didn't remove them completely, at least not the inner aprons. I did remove the entire fender and undo the spot weld for the hinges to attach and reassembled the hood using the stock hinges. I have trimmed the inner fenderwell area alot and made a custom bracket for the airbox. I plan on doing more once I make my custom engine cage. I will take some pic's when it's more daylight and post them for you. Keep me/us posted on how the springs worked out. - Josh

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Pics. would be nice Josh, I am going to put the front end back together this weekend, then pick up my painted fenders, and new tie rods next week. I'll let you know how the coils work out, man i'd rather be at the 500, oh well, next time I guess..

Chris

[jaferri]

Chris, here are some pic's. I just got through with making my tie rods today. One side is not welded on yet so that I can cut to length once the new arms are installed. They are made out of 1.5x.250 DOM and I made my own bungs with left and right 3/4 heims. The center is knurled so adjustments can be made by hand. I also got the upper and lower arms painted and the shocks mocked up. One I have a few days to spare I will get them all installed and build my engine cage/shock hoops all at once. - Josh

[jaferri]

another, sorry for the multiple posts don't know how to attach multiple pic's. Help me out if you know. - Josh

[jaferri]

4 more to go

[jaferri]

passenger fenderwell

[jaferri]

driver fenderwell

[jaferri]

Top view of Driver side. I plan on trying to move more around once the engine cage is installed. It also seems as though there might be enough room to move the computer into my extra battery box tray area.

[GASPORTS4EVR]

Damn Josh! you're gonna finish your truck before I finish mine, I'd better get back in the garage.. Thanks for posting the pics. Looks good, I like the idea of moving the computer into the additional battery tray, think I'm gonna do that with mine.. Keep me posted man!!

Chris

[jaferri]

Chris, Any updates??? My truck probably wont be done for awhile because I have a race next week as a co-pilot from ensenada to San Felipe. Right now all my time is being spent prepping the race truck. Let me know how it went, some pic's would be nice as well from the front and side. - Josh