Raceco-USA TT Lower Trailing Arms

[JCampbell]

Some TT Trailing arms I did for a Geiser, Originals were built for the #16 of Cameron Steele

[SPONSOR]

Membership in the largest desert racing community has its advantages - Participate in Forum Discussions - Send and Receive Private Messages - Maintain Public Photo Albums - Access to Groups - User Profile in our Social Network - Increased Access to more Sub Forums - Reduced Online Advertisements Join our community today

[scottm]

It looks ok for a beginner Are you using sphericals at both ends?

[JCampbell]

Uni at pivot and Heim at axle, Had Uni's at both ends drawn but never finished, tried to stay true too the Geiser design for adjustability, Ricky said they were perty but I was sick in the head

[scottm]

They are purty all right. It is a trend lately to use uniballs at both ends, but I think it needs to have adjustment.

[Zambo]

Scott, was wondering about your thoughts on adjustment. I've been considering dual uniballs if I remake my arms since I don't think I would ever have to adjust the suspension now that I have it where I want it. Uniball housings IMO are stronger than the shank of a heim, you don't have to worry about the jamnut staying tight, and the bearing itself is far less expensive.

[scottm]

Hi John. Yes all that is true, but just a few thousanths of an inch makes the difference between the axle being squared up or crooked. Just a 1/16 of a turn on an upper link (when using rt and left-hand threaded hiems) moves the axle sideways 1/4". I have seen lower links shrink in length by 1/8" after welding.. And then there is bending from hitting things. I know big shops are doing it, but I think you are better off in the long run having some adjustability. The next time I build lower links I am going to use a uniball at the axle and a hiem at the frame.

[Zambo]

Hmmmmm, what if you made lower link mounts that could be adjusted with shims or something. Anyway, an 1/8th of an inch on my truck is beyond my ability to measure! I just got the axle housing straightened and it was bent by over 3/8" by my estimation. Never noticed it driving.

[skullver]

Wow, those are really nice! I don't think I have ever seen the shock mounts that low, must be some pretty tall rod ends on the shocks, what brand shock are they designed for? Great work, inspiring for sure!

[Wild bill]

Hi John. Yes all that is true, but just a few thousanths of an inch makes the difference between the axle being squared up or crooked. Just a 1/16 of a turn on an upper link (when using rt and left-hand threaded hiems) moves the axle sideways 1/4". I have seen lower links shrink in length by 1/8" after welding.. And then there is bending from hitting things. I know big shops are doing it, but I think you are better off in the long run having some adjustability. The next time I build lower links I am going to use a uniball at the axle and a hiem at the frame.

Geiser did heim at the frame and uniball on the axle. They switched that after the lower link became a huge pogo stick when the heim broke. They now use a uniball at the frame and heim with pinch bung at the axle.

[CRAIG_HALL]

Any Shrinking from welding should be the same for each arm, so that alone shouldn't sway a decision in my mind. Of course a chassis can be out of square but why? If it is bent I'd expect much more to be wrong as well.