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must be at least 5-6 yrs now right thom? wasn't making a judgment call...only an observation that there are in fact tt's with three link rear suspension.
Well, I know of a couple trucks that ran 3 link rear suspension. One of which is the Danahoe truggy and TT.
Larry Roselor's prerunner also runs a 3 link, built by C&D Fabworks. Also built by C&D, Chris and Danny's old ford has a three link, along with their ranger featured in off-road and currently for-sale.
I know they are not currently HUGE maufacturer, but ESB Mike builds three links as well, on his truck and The Piece. Solo Motorsports is also another shop that utilizes 3 links.
must be at least 5-6 yrs now right thom? wasn't making a judgment call...only an observation that there are in fact tt's with three link rear suspension.
True. I was thinking that you're more likely to find a 3 link in an older truck than in a newer truck. That's been my observation anyway.
There is more tuning possiblity in a 4 link re: Roll Center vs. CG, but if a 3 link can do the job to your satifaction then why add the complexity of a 4 link?
Also something to add, most people that do infact build 3 links, their shocks are mounted above the center line in the lower link, while people who prefer 4 links, their shocks are mounted evenly or below the centerline. This might have to do with the articulation issue, that 4 links get more articulation than 3. ????
NO, three links are easer to layout and are more simple. I seems your right about your observation about where shocks mount, but I dont think it applies.
In my experience, if you are linking a framed truck, it is easer to go with a 3 link. If you are linking a space frame design and can get the links to mount further out than the frame would allow, a 4 link makes sense.
It is possible and totally doable to link a framed truck, but the angel of the upper links is vary close and induces allot of shear and bind. 3 links welded solid and can deal with this binding a shearing better and induce less strain into the frame.
If you run heims on both ends of the arm you should have the shock mount a bit below the centerline ( with a 3 or 4 link) it will roll to the side and beat the he11 out of the heims from twisting them if you have it above, if you look at the last two pics they only have a heim on one end so they can get away with running the shock above the centerline
You’re correct; the 3 link is mounted using nylitron bushings, so most people use these bushings to mount the forward end of the lower links. In my case it’s the simpleness factor.
If you run heims on both ends of the arm you should have the shock mount a bit below the centerline ( with a 3 or 4 link) it will roll to the side and beat the he11 out of the heims from twisting them if you have it above
OK!? So that applies under compression. Have you thought about rebound? The opposite is true. Damn! Now what do you do?
Be sure and wear a tinfoil hat on your helmet, if you really want to play it safe wrap your steering wheel in tinfoil also, i thought everyone knew tinfoil protected people from bad things.
Much less force on rebound, its mostly in the shock since that were the spring is pushing down so its mosty isolated, except for the weight of the rear end.
Well a 3 link will get more duck walk, but a 4 link will control it better. It is up to personal preference. Every shop is different. Just like were you mount the shock mount on the trailing arm, on top, above centerline, centerline or below. Just like the front pivot; bushing, uniball or heim. They all work, but there is no CORRECT way of doing things.
The downfall to big horsepower and big suspension is that you have a slip joint. Weather it be in the tranny or the driveshaft you have 800hp going and trying to align the gears...with tends to blow things apart. We had Culhane build us a billet tail shaft w/ 2 sealed bearings instead of the stock crush sleeve and bushing because it kept blowing out. This also depends on your driveshaft length and if you are running a carrier bearing.
Here is a picture of our truggy, it is a 3 link only because of how they had to be mounted. The frist arms started out w/ heims front and rear and shocks set up at centerline. Soon found out that you needed something to control the trailing arm; also these arms are really short. So the new ones have a uniball in the front and the shocks are placed below centerline. Remember there is no set WAY, just depends on who you talk to. The rear is limited at 34" and works perfect.
Originally Posted by WoodyW
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