Wheel Studs

[SpceSpff]

I just bought wheel studs. The guy at Mckenzies told me I need to have my drums counter sunk with a special drill bit, before I install the studs. I believe he called it "spot facing". Is there a shop around that knows how to do this? Thanks

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[Haney motorsports]

when we would buy are drums from kartek they would counter sink them as well,why I couldn't tell you.However I know you do not need to do this.When we stud are own drums we do not chamfer/countersink them.I would just drill them out and press them in,save the wall thickness and the time trying to do this.

[partybarge_pilot]

It's counterboring, not countersinking. Baisically, you want the backside to be flat under the head.

[SpceSpff]

i am using type 1 drums all around. i was told on the front, if the drums are not "counter bored" the studs will hit the shoe retainer springs. and in the rear, the natural taper or angle of the inside of the drum will cause the studs to angle themselves outwards slightly, and put unwanted stress on the drum itself when the wheel is installed.

edit: i think ill call kartek and see if they can do it.... hopefully it wont cost me an arm and a leg

[ACME]

We've always done our own and the most we've ever had them touch is a slight rub that we fixed with a hand grinder. It did not take much to get clearance, we just took a red hair more than the "SAW" logo off. Never broke or pulled a stud by doing it that way...

[mike_hinson]

You can also shorten the pin by placing a small washer on it at the back of the backing plate. This shortens the length of the pin inside the drum and should eliminate the rubbing. Makes the spring tension a little stronger holding the shoes on. There are many ways to eliminate the problem without machining the drums. You might also add a small dab of silicone on the keeper to help it stay on if it does start rubbing during the race.
Mike

[Protech975]

Tim - The type-1 drums in the rear may work for playing around but will not work if you plan on racing! Type-1 drums are just not strong enough to withstand the stress that full on racing will put on them. Back in the early Class-9 days before they changed that rule that said you had to run type-1 drums some racers would break one or two a race and it was not uncommon to see teams carrying extra drums on the car. You will need to use either Type-2 Bus drums and have them machined down to fit the type 1 axles and backing plates or use Thing drums or some after market equivalent.


"
I am using type 1 drums all around. i was told on the front, if the drums are not "counter bored" the studs will hit the shoe retainer springs. and in the rear, the natural taper or angle of the inside of the drum will cause the studs to angle themselves outwards slightly, and put unwanted stress on the drum itself when the wheel is installed.

edit: i think ill call kartek and see if they can do it.... hopefully it wont cost me an arm and a leg[/QUOTE]

[SpceSpff]

ok, i read in an article that i need a 15/32 drill bit to drill out the drums for the studs to fit, then you use a 5/8 bit to "counter bore" slightly, a home style job. like a dumba$$ i went and bought the 15/32 bit without measuring the studs. well, i just measured the stud (on the threads), and my caliper says they are 17/32. is this right? i guess my next move is to go exchange my drill bit for 2 sizes up???

[SpceSpff]

ok, so i bought a 1/2" drill bit on someones advice. opened the bit, and drilled out one hole (bye bye $19.50). studs dont fit. is 17/32 the right size stud? im wondering if my studs are too big.....

[ntsqd]

By neccessity they are a press fit. Can have a shop press them in. Can try driving them in.

Some use a stack of washers & a nut to draw them in. I do NOT like this method. For the force involved you are usually at or above the yield point of the stud, meaning that you are unneccessarily fatiguing them. And you risk stripping the stud. You will strip nuts doing it this way. If you persist in trying it this way, THROW AWAY the nuts you used to do this.