Shock mount ????

[Stan]

Let me know what y'all think...........
Relocate the top mounts for the rear shocks of my K5. For y'all that know Chevys know that the rear top mounts like to break. Here's my idea for a fix.............
Take a length of 1.25"x.120" DOM tube, lay it across the top of the frame, forward of the rear axle; notch the tube where it meets the frame so I can weld it solid to a plate(3/16th" or 3/8th" plate?) that will
be bolted to the top of the frame. The tube will extend out from the frame approximately 2" and the shocks will be bolted to the outboard part of the tube. Do y'all think the there will be little flex to this setup? The total length will not extend more than 1.5" stock for extended and compressed travel.

I'm not here, nor was I here, nor will I ever be here.

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[ntsqd]

Sounds to me like it'll flex either the tube or the frame rail flange. Is the tube intended to bridge from one rail to the other, or be cantilevered out into space ? From your description I can't tell which.

Why notch the tube at all. I would make a plate that bolts to the outside of the rail. Extend it above the rail's top flange and have a hole that the cross tube goes completely thru, plus a little. Weld the tube to the outer plates on the outside. Then make similar plates for the inside of the rails with angle brackets to allow bolting thru the flanges. The inner brackets I would let float on the tube, but from the base of them I would pull up and in a short gusset tube. I would think that all four plates would not have to be much thicker than 10 ga.

TS

"It only seems kinky the first time"
-- Bumpersticker seen in Lost Wages

[cleartoy]

1 1/2"x.120. Thank you.

85 Toyota xtracab 4x4(for sale)
94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

Got Sand??

[Stan]

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

Why notch the tube at all. I would make a plate that bolts to the outside of the rail. Extend it above the rail's top flange and have a hole that the cross tube goes completely thru, plus a little. Weld the tube to the outer plates on the outside. Then make similar plates for the inside of the rails with angle brackets to allow bolting thru the flanges. The inner brackets I would let float on the tube, but from the base of them I would pull up and in a short gusset tube. I would think that all four plates would not have to be much thicker than 10 ga.

<hr></blockquote>


Okay, let me see if I understand what you are saying. It would be like another crossmember almost. There would be a plate on the outside of each frame rail, and one on the inside of each rail. There would be a cross tube and the tube would be welded to the outside plate, but not the inside? Then add two cross brace tubes on the inside of the frame, one on each side?



I'm not here, nor was I here, nor will I ever be here.

[ntsqd]

It would be a cross member. From the sound of things you're cantilevered too far off the frame rail. You don't want to be putting that kind of twisting moment on the frame rails. The reason for not welding the inner plates to the tube is to try to move the moment off the flanges and to the web of the rail.
I'll be faced with a similar dilema on my Sub in about a month. Haven't even begun to look at it or think about what to do yet.

TS

"It only seems kinky the first time"
-- Bumpersticker seen in Lost Wages

[Donahoe]

here you go
<http://www.off-road.com/chevy/feature/donahoeracing/blazer/>

NEVER LIFT!!!!!

[Donahoe]

DAMM HERE
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/featur...racing/blazer/

NEVER LIFT!!!!!

[tkr]

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.off-road.com/chevy/feature/donahoeracing/blazer/>http://www.off-road.com/chevy/feature/donahoeracing/blazer/</A>


Matt Nelson
Team Kwik Racing