Currently using an 009 dist (not for long) on a CL12 motor and at the snore 250 I went through 3 rotors. Thanks to everyone who loaned me their spares so I could make my 1/2 lap. The plastic key up in the rotor kept breaking and the rotor would spin on the shaft. Everyone that looked at it says the shaft feels good and there's no excessive play/wear. The only thing we can think of is the spring clips on the dist cap are getting weak and the vibration from the motor and racing is shaking the cap enough for the contacts inside to get in the path of the rotor as it comes around. I don't know what clearances are at the tip of the rotor but it wouldn't take much...
I see a lot of cars with the MSD dist. MSD the best? Which model? The only thing I've read is that you have to use their wires, coil, etc.
Anybody have experience with Compu-Fire's distributorless system?
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Stick with the Compu-Fire that uses an 09 dist. Check your end play on the 09. Something is wrong with you's, they are fool proof . i have used one in my 9, 1600, 1200 cars. they are cheep and plentifully in the desert and work well. i know one "FAsT" engine builder(many times engine builder of the year in SCORE)that switched over to Compu-fire recently. The distributor less ign's have failed for me in the 1000 two separate times in our 12 car.The crank triggers failed both times.
Dist RPM is half crank speed.
Hope this helps
Stick with the Compu-Fire that uses an 09 dist. Check your end play on the 09. Something is wrong with you's, they are fool proof . i have used one in my 9, 1600, 1200 cars. they are cheep and plentifully in the desert and work well. i know one "FAsT" engine builder(many times engine builder of the year in SCORE)that switched over to Compu-fire recently. The distributor less ign's have failed for me in the 1000 two separate times in our 12 car.The crank triggers failed both times.
Dist RPM is half crank speed.
Hope this helps
You have some other issue.Racers have been running those distributors for 30 years..look at the quality of parts, maybe the rotor is not sitting down on the shaft and not locked down into the slot. Some of the race vendors can get you better quality caps and rotors and clamp than you might have found locally. Check the bottom of the dist, look for damaged shims or worn pin, spiral lock or drive. And there is a tension spring (looks like it is out of a BIC pen) between the distributor drive in the motor and the dist. Also there are endplay shims between the dist drive and the block.
Tech Help at Aircooled.Net says you're supposed to shave off the bottom of the rotor to allow for the compu-fire disc so the rotor sits down in its original position. We'll see if that fixes it. Still going to check the rest of the dist.
Must have been to much trouble to put that in the damn instructions....
Tech Help at Aircooled.Net says you're supposed to shave off the bottom of the rotor to allow for the compu-fire disc so the rotor sits down in its original position. We'll see if that fixes it. Still going to check the rest of the dist.
Must have been to much trouble to put that in the damn instructions....
Just make sure the compufire disc is seated all the way down. If not the rotor will rub the cap and eventually pop. They need a little muscle help to get all the way down. We had a rotor explode on us and that was the deal.
Kevin Martin * 2005 B1K Finisher * BALD EAGLE RACING * BITD #1197 / MORE/SNORE #1297
Thanks to everyone who loaned me their spares so I could make my 1/2 lap.
The plastic key up in the rotor kept breaking and the rotor would spin on the shaft. Everyone that looked at it says the shaft feels good and there's no excessive play/wear. The only thing we can think of is the spring clips on the dist cap are getting weak and the vibration from the motor and racing is shaking the cap enough for the contacts inside to get in the path of the rotor as it comes around. I don't know what clearances are at the tip of the rotor but it wouldn't take much...
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Originally Posted by clogking
