I just picked up a Sportsman VW bug. Its got no motor (or trans for that matter) and I was wondering what size motor I should put in there. Im thinking an 1835 or 1915 but Im not really sure. Reliability is a huge issue, horsepower not so much. The motor is going to be built by my dad and I so I dont really need a builder reference.
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I think you are asking the question backwards...give us a budget, then try to spend the money as wisely as possible. How much are you going to spend on the trans? Because that will directly influence motor decisions. Maybe build a 1914 with dual carbs but smaller heads for good torque then spend over 2500 on a bus trans from a reputable builder. And to be honest there are no correct answers just opinions to what you are asking.
Heres a picture. 10 over beam with SAW C/O and OG Foxs up front. Back has 3x3s with Fox triple bypasses. Front will run 31s (I think), rear will run 33s for sure. Not sure on what exact tires though.
It was in the classifieds a little while ago. Budget is right about 3500 - 4000 for the motor. Im pretty much split between the 1835 and 19XX The trans is taken care of, built bus box that will handle most anything.
I've seen many 1835s and 1914s that were plenty reliable. Either one should suit you well. Just make sure you match the compression, heads, and cam. Don't go too big on the cam. Most importantly put a BIG external oil cooler on it with a fan.
Taylor, we had ours shipped from a guy named Bernie Bergman in Oklahoma. For about 3000 it comes with a perfect cooler with all the hoses and switches. BTW it was a 2275, and it runs cool all day and pulls like a beast.
Heres a picture. 10 over beam with SAW C/O and OG Foxs up front. Back has 3x3s with Fox triple bypasses. Front will run 31s (I think), rear will run 33s for sure. Not sure on what exact tires though.
It was in the classifieds a little while ago. Budget is right about 3500 - 4000 for the motor. Im pretty much split between the 1835 and 19XX The trans is taken care of, built bus box that will handle most anything.
I assume that you are running coil over on the rear too with the bypass...and the box can handle anything? Really? I don't know of too many tranny guys that will tell a customer that but o.k. Since you are asking for preference on the two, if you have a case and it is a later 8mm stud case, or will be buying a new case, build a 1914. There really is no good reason to build an 1835. The 94mm cylinders on the 1914 tend to run slightly cooler (thicker) and last longer than the 92s on the 1835-but a lot of this is determined by carb set up. Since you already have this super trans, maybe look into building something a little bigger like a 2.0. Definately help with moving the heavy car through the desert.
I assume that you are running coil over on the rear too with the bypass...and the box can handle anything? Really? I don't know of too many tranny guys that will tell a customer that but o.k. Since you are asking for preference on the two, if you have a case and it is a later 8mm stud case, or will be buying a new case, build a 1914. There really is no good reason to build an 1835. The 94mm cylinders on the 1914 tend to run slightly cooler (thicker) and last longer than the 92s on the 1835-but a lot of this is determined by carb set up. Since you already have this super trans, maybe look into building something a little bigger like a 2.0. Definately help with moving the heavy car through the desert.
When I was talking about the trans, I meant it will hold up to the mild motor I have in mind. Thanks for the other positive aspects of your post though.
Well, I wasn't trying to be a total arse, just trying to make a point. If you have not spent a good amount of money and time building a properly geared trans, then the motor decision is moot. For example, most play cars do not run at 5/1600 speeds. You are building a car with more travel so has the potential to run at faster speeds putting more strain on the trans. Also, it takes a lot of horsepower to overcome a trans that is not geared properly. And in a trans gearing=$. And in reality, your usable horsepower will come from your choice of headwork and carbs, not 1835 vs 1914, and how well that horsepower is put to the ground is determined by the 5 choices available in the trans (1, 2 ,3 ,4th gear and r/p).
Re: What size VW motor?
Originally Posted by TMorford
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