Watts linkage vs panhard rod

[Muddi44]

I am thinking of tightening the rear of my truck to prevent the axle moving about, it is beam axled on leaves, rear travel is about 12" What are the advantages of a watts linkage over a panhard, I know the physical differences but how does this translate into real world drivability.

Tim

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[partybarge_pilot]

Watts links function better, panhard bars package better. Real world difference? If your panhard bar is long enough, you'll probably never notice the difference between the 2.

[Muddi44]

Thanks for the reply, in my case it may be easier to package a watts linkage rather than a long panhard. It will just be a pain to fabricate.

Tim

[Pharaoh XJ]

I am not sure of that but I think its better to run a panhard in the rear if you have one upfront so the front & rear axles travel are superposed, although Bowler & Desert Warriors run panhard upfront & watts in the back.

Why do you need Watts or panhard bar on leaf springs ?? I think that a panhard and even Watts linkage will cause lateral stress on your leafs causing them to break (unless you are planning on running special type of shackles that allows lateral movement).
For your case I think the best structure that will tighten the rear axle would be an A arm or a Triangular Link this will minimize lateral movement + eliminating spring wrap

my .02 $

[partybarge_pilot]

Why do you need Watts or panhard bar on leaf springs ?? I think that a panhard and even Watts linkage will cause lateral stress on your leafs causing them to break (unless you are planning on running special type of shackles that allows lateral movement).

The stress is negligible if done properly on the panhard bar. Watts links have no side to side movement as the suspension cycles.

[Pharaoh XJ]

The stress is negligible if done properly on the panhard bar. Watts links have no side to side movement as the suspension cycles.

The stress might be not that negligible if the panhard is long enough & is not that significant with 12" of travel.

But the watts linkage has a curve that increase at maximum bump & droop, also can be minimized if done right but can not be cancelled



Still think that a triangulated arm would be best in this case.

[partybarge_pilot]

Still think that a triangulated arm would be best in this case.

So would I, but that wasn't one of the original options.

[Muddi44]

So would I, but that wasn't one of the original options.

This was because I had not considered it! Most of the links I have seen in the UK are ghetto fab & have been made to sort out spring wrap on poorly conceived SPOA/lifts.
Packaging will be easier (I think) with the triangulated link, however this raises more questions regarding the design
1/ How do I decide on length of the arm, I run parabolic (SAE classification; stacked T2 modified tapered cantilever) springs
2/ Will the angle of the link affect the handling

Sorry for all the questions but I am new to this game

BTW Pharaoh XJ Thanks for the animation, if ever a case of a picture paints a 1000 words.

Tim

[Triaged]

...But the watts linkage has a curve that increase at maximum bump & droop..

The curve is very linear over a travel about equal to the height of the bell crank from bottom to top pivot. Obviously that is a generalization but it isn't that bad of one.

[partybarge_pilot]

Are you going spring over or under? Sprung under works a lot better for a triangulated upper bar. Spring over works better with 2 bars underneath the springs.