single relief case

[Zac Reish]

i know I have touched on this in the past but I never really got much of an answer. but I have a 1914 longblock that has a single relief case. Is there a really good reason why i should not rebuild this motor because of it being a single relief.

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[D-rek]

If ain't broke don't brake it....When it is time to rebuild switch out the case

[Zac Reish]

my question is, is why shouldn't I just re use the case.

[DailyPedal]

my question is, is why shouldn't I just re use the case.

Zac, we did go over all of this... There are a few different versions of single relief cases so you need to know what you have to begin with. The single relief cases had smaller oil galleys and less material around the studs (10mm stud without insert would pull out of the block vs 8mm stud with insert) but could still be a reliable base for a mild to moderate motor if the case is in good condition with as close to standard bearings as possible. Plus, most off road motors get torn down more often than a street motor so longevity is relative...the dual relief cases were an improvement (8mm studs, better oil control, deeper stud on #3, better oil pump, larger oil pickup, and probably a few more I have long forgot). Some of the new replacement cases are better still but again, depends on the condition. A worn out case will suffer from low oil pressure and eventually take out the crank and rods. They will crack and collapse and self destruct-that is why I told you to have a reputable machine shop clean and inspect the case a long time ago so you know what you are dealing with at the start...good luck...

[Motelcambodia]

Zac, we did go over all of this... There are a few different versions of single relief cases so you need to know what you have to begin with. The single relief cases had smaller oil galleys and less material around the studs (10mm stud without insert would pull out of the block vs 8mm stud with insert) but could still be a reliable base for a mild to moderate motor if the case is in good condition with as close to standard bearings as possible. Plus, most off road motors get torn down more often than a street motor so longevity is relative...the dual relief cases were an improvement (8mm studs, better oil control, deeper stud on #3, better oil pump, larger oil pickup, and probably a few more I have long forgot). Some of the new replacement cases are better still but again, depends on the condition. A worn out case will suffer from low oil pressure and eventually take out the crank and rods. They will crack and collapse and self destruct-that is why I told you to have a reputable machine shop clean and inspect the case a long time ago so you know what you are dealing with at the start...good luck...

IS it easy to tell what case you have? And any way to tell from the out side?
Can I do the inserts my self?

I have 2 WV motors Plus the one in my pre runner/daliy driver I want to build one from 2 cores I have. 1600 5/1600 legal motor

Thanks
Brian

[Zac Reish]

now I remember, but thanks again for the info.

[partybarge_pilot]

IS it easy to tell what case you have? And any way to tell from the out side?
Can I do the inserts my self?

The case #'s are stamped on the block just below the alternator stand.

A pretty good guide to decode them here. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/...ne_letters.php

As far as doing the inserts yourself, depends on how mechanically inclined you are. If you have put in Heli-coils or Keenserts before, you shouldn't have a problem.

[DailyPedal]

Better to have a good shop put them in along with whatever other machine work you need. If the top surface of the insert is not flat, the cylinder may sit on the insert instead of against the block and it could cause sealing problems between the cylinder and the head and block. Not saying you cannot do it, just saying if you do not know what to look for, you could easily create more problems than you think you are fixing...

[mebuildit]

I have used reduced shank head studs. 10mm threaded ends with the center turned down for clearance around the barrels. Case Savers are the best, don't forget to deep stud #3 and weld the rear of the block. After welding the rear always line bore the case. Deburr the whole inside of the case with a sandpaper roll. Use Super tin vs. stock sheetmetal air deflectors. If you want to get crazy then drill out some of the oil galleries to a little larger diameter for better oil flow. Also, full flow oilling is a good way to help.
I have built plenty of VW engines from stock to 3 liter Alcohol injected drag cars. Basically, take your time and think about each detail before moving on to the next.
If you have any quesions, feel free to PM me anytime.
good luck with your build.

[Motelcambodia]

I have used reduced shank head studs. 10mm threaded ends with the center turned down for clearance around the barrels. Case Savers are the best, don't forget to deep stud #3 and weld the rear of the block. After welding the rear always line bore the case. Deburr the whole inside of the case with a sandpaper roll. Use Super tin vs. stock sheetmetal air deflectors. If you want to get crazy then drill out some of the oil galleries to a little larger diameter for better oil flow. Also, full flow oilling is a good way to help.
I have built plenty of VW engines from stock to 3 liter Alcohol injected drag cars. Basically, take your time and think about each detail before moving on to the next.
If you have any quesions, feel free to PM me anytime.
good luck with your build.

Stud #3 your talking about drilling until it comes out the rear of the block then weld it up?