Prerunner Baja Bug front suspension

[1Hondalover]

I am considering building/having built a new prerunner baja bug at the beginning of next year to replace my existing one. As I prepare my specifications, I'm not sure what to do about the front suspension. I would appreciate some thoughts on this. Please remember this is not a race car, though at times it will likely be driven like one for short periods.

The question is Beam vs. A-arm. Money is an object but I do plan to spend enough to do it/have it done right. This means proper alignment so it isn't all over the street and proper bump steer......lack of that is. A criteria is overall width and shock towers through the hood. I am looking to have the absolute overall width at 80" and I don't want anything up through the hood/fenders. For you racers that may sound silly, but I still use the car to fly around the local desert and between the bushes on the smaller fast trails. This width may have some impact on A-arm I'm thinking.

I have seen pictures of some A-arm bajas. The arm pivots look to be 8" to 10" apart. Is it feasible and structurally sound to almost butt them together to use a proper length arm and get my width?

Please remember - not racing and don't need 25" of travel. I just want to go fast over the rough stuff from time to time without breaking parts and having the maintenance of a race car. Or should I just stick with a beam? Maybe you need more info.

Thanks for your help.

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[LENNY]

We were just talking about a baja project last night a SRP Traves Flecher's.Ft beam is easy but u end up with 15' to 16' of travel with A-arms 18' to 20' and A arms would be easy to hide under the hood.We were talking A arms 18' to 20' up ft and 20' to 22' in the rear with a Mendola 5 speed with a 2.4 eco motor that way you could run AC.This baja would run great and live aslong as u dont do something stupid.

[stoprez2006]

i am doing pretty much the same as what you are talking about. I decided to with an a-arm setup on my project. I also had the same thoughts on the coil overs through the hood and didnt want the car to end up too wide. I think my design came out to around 86" wide and is pulling around 23" travel. I originally had it narrower but with the amount of travel I wanted (which was at least 20") and where things where located I was afraid I would take out my front 'glass with the tires at full bump. I think if you limited the travel at bump more than I did you could easily have an 18"+ travel front and be within you 80" width you would like to have. Just remember it is all about compromise to get what you want and have it work well.

[Johnnyp]

If you don't have the cash to do an arm set up what will run you arround 3k with the right heims and bushing delrin ... then just get a wider beam and get some 8's if the most economical way to go

[LENNY]

A car as lite as that you can do tube arms like the older Jimco's not boxed.Hell my Alumacraft had tubed arms.It comes down to the paseos you got.

[1Hondalover]

If you don't have the cash to do an arm set up what will run you arround 3k with the right heims and bushing delrin ... then just get a wider beam and get some 8's if the most economical way to go

What are 8's?

[Zac Reish]

i think he is talking about 8" shocks

[LENNY]

It could be the length of the arms (VW style)

[Ol' Curmudgeon]

with 15' to 16' of travel with A-arms 18' to 20' and A arms would be easy to hide under the hood.We were talking A arms 18' to 20' up ft and 20' to 22'.

In any case, with this kind of travel, you're bound to have tie rod and CV issues.

[TauMau]

Something to think about

Having a setup built to your specs may become very expensive to have designed. My recommendation is this.

-If you're able to build it on your own (meaning both quality and geometrical competence), go for the a-arm.
-If you're not able to build it on your own but can design the front end in solidworks and have someone else do the grunt work, then go for the a-arm. Keep in mind there are multiple factors that play into designing something that is compatible with with real world.

If neither of the two are true (ie you'll have to have someone build it and can't do the work in Solidworks), then I'd lean towards the beam.

Another recommendation would be to call up someone who has had experience working around the baja platform with both a-arm and beam...then get a quote from them. Crumco would be a good option and have the lowest prices in town from my experience:
(760) 948-3620
http://mysite.verizon.net/resvt0hl/id2.html

You may also have seen this, but if not it's seemingly exactly what you want:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie....php?id=859676

Just be sure to cycle it in person so you can get a feel for the geometry.