VW 1835 engine oil recommendation

[johnnyweb]

Just pulled my buddies old 5 car out of 10 year storage stent. We need to change the oil and am wondering what the hot ticket is these days. Medium built 1835 engine. 20/50 straight 40wt ??????????

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[DBMETALWORX]

castrol hd30 works really well for our dry sump 2 liter class 10... have seen oil temp high as 260, and no oil related problems.. though we don't normally run that high..

[Wendell #527]

I predict you are going to get at least 8 different recommendations. None of them will be wrong. We use Mobil 1 Synthetic 20-50.

[johnnyweb]

So far straight 30wt or 20/50wt will be good. I use Amsoil in my race/daily drivers.

[Ryan_P]

Delo 400 15W40

[DBMETALWORX]

Delo 400 15W40

this is what my buddy runs in his top fuel motor..

[prerunner1499]

I third the Delo 400 15w40. In an independent oil test in an VW related mag a few years ago that oil out performed all others including some syhthetics in many of the tests, friction, heat disipation, thermal viscosity breakdown resistance, and zinc content.
It is a dino oil designed for trucks, (big rigs) and we use it in our race motor, 2332 160ish HP 9.5:1 CR. Tested the oil a while back and it was great, we have OVER 2000 race miles on that motor without a rebuid. Its the only oil it has ever seen. We use ab 8qt dry sump system with aircooled.net dry sump. Tank is from Affco, Setrab oil cooler. and dry sump, our our NEVER sees over 250 degrees.

Oh ya,, thats also what I run in my preruner 1835cc with 9:1 cr and 110 cam. ported heads. Runs great. I have probably I dunno, 2-3000 miles on it. It was built in 2001.

[johnnyweb]

Thanks for the info guys. looks like 15-40 might be the ticket. I sold this car to him back in like 1998 or so and for the life of me could not remember what we used in it. Moved on to the truck classes and have not worked with a VW engine since. Fun little car obviously not class legal with the 1835 motor any more but the little thing rips still. It has sat for about 8 years know in back of his garage put in new battery and pumped out the old gas and put some fresh race fuel and it fired right up. Motor runs great but the brakes are no bueno!!!

[VeryFast]

Mobile one synthetic or 76 Racing synthetic. Both you can buy at many automotive outlets. They are the exact same blend though the 76 costs much less.

As an independent distributor of 76 products for 7 years, I was prevy to Unocals testing facility in Brea, CA and educated through Unocals lubricants training program and by my own racing ventures. Tim Wusz tested, blended and retested just about any oil you can pull out of your hat at the Fred L Hartley institute in Brea. We had 20 engine dyno's and any engine package you can dream up.

Engine Oil is a comprised of a blend of petroleum bases and chemicals to lubricate an engines internals. Secondary to lubrication, engine oil cools parts. Because of the metals in engines (yellow/brass, white/chrome, and black/iron), engine oil needs a balance of products to lubricate these three metals evenly. The "high performance" aftermarket has introduced engine oils for years which produce more power by reducing friction. The problem with this is these oils are out of balance with a typical engines lubrication requirements. Yes, your engine will produce more power, but at the cost of excessive wear. For instance, your "performance" oil will lubricate the cylinder walls really well (Chrome & iron), but your bearings (brass) are getting less lubrication than needed due to the balance of the blend you are using.

If your drag racing, or running a short race. And your pocket book can support rebuilds often, than keep using the aftermarket lubricants..... otherwise, save yourself some money and save yourself the time of pulling your engines, rebuilding your engines and remounting your engines.

Recommendations for Desert racers only
5/30 weight for Class 9 & 11 (low compression air cooled)
10/40 weight for Class 5/1600, 1/2-1600, 10 air & water cooled (high compression air cooled)
20/50 weight for all V6's and V8's (low, medium & high compression)

Hope this helps....
Steve Poole

[D-rek]

[QUOTE=VeryFast;993726]Mobile one synthetic or 76 Racing synthetic. Both you can buy at many automotive outlets. They are the exact same blend though the 76 costs much less.

As an independent distributor of 76 products for 7 years, I was prevy to Unocals testing facility in Brea, CA and educated through Unocals lubricants training program and by my own racing ventures. Tim Wusz tested, blended and retested just about any oil you can pull out of your hat at the Fred L Hartley institute in Brea. We had 20 engine dyno's and any engine package you can dream up.

Engine Oil is a comprised of a blend of petroleum bases and chemicals to lubricate an engines internals. Secondary to lubrication, engine oil cools parts. Because of the metals in engines (yellow/brass, white/chrome, and black/iron), engine oil needs a balance of products to lubricate these three metals evenly. The "high performance" aftermarket has introduced engine oils for years which produce more power by reducing friction. The problem with this is these oils are out of balance with a typical engines lubrication requirements. Yes, your engine will produce more power, but at the cost of excessive wear. For instance, your "performance" oil will lubricate the cylinder walls really well (Chrome & iron), but your bearings (brass) are getting less lubrication than needed due to the balance of the blend you are using.

If your drag racing, or running a short race. And your pocket book can support rebuilds often, than keep using the aftermarket lubricants..... otherwise, save yourself some money and save yourself the time of pulling your engines, rebuilding your engines and remounting your engines.

Recommendations for Desert racers only
5/30 weight for Class 9 & 11 (low compression air cooled)
10/40 weight for Class 5/1600, 1/2-1600, 10 air & water cooled (high compression air cooled)
20/50 weight for all V6's and V8's (low, medium & high compression)

Hope this helps....
Steve Poole[/QUOTE

Steve,
I respect your opinion on V8's. I have to disagree with your recommendations on VW's. They are a completely different animal. The oil in VW engine acts as its coolant. Most synthetic oil do not transfer heat as well as conventional oil just like water transfers heat better then coolant. I want to see how long a class nine motor would last with 5/30 at summer race in Barstow. Also class 11 motors are typically high compression.