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Ideally you want the tire to stay flat to the surface it is rolling on. So optimum camber change will depend on your roll center and the roll angularity limit of the design. Then what ever camber you pre-set to offset tire carcass squirm will remain constant thru the range of motion. If you are running a light tire or a heavy vehicle you may want a little camber gain from the above ideal to help with excessive carcass squirm.
positive camber is not good. You should be gaining negative camber up to full bump. The appropriate amount depends on the anticipated body roll per steering/ turning input. As most off road trucks/vehicles run low spirng rates at the wheel the anticipated body roll might be quite high. This would generally require more neg camber gain. Most designs that I have seen let the vehicles take 5-7 degrees of "set" with considerably less neg camber gain. This stems from much more important striaght line bump characteristics than then turning performance. Watch any off road video most of the vehicles roll pretty far on asphault turns. This attached pics shows not nearly enough negative camber gain, but the truck wins so obviously there has been some compromise.
almost every truck i`ve seen with beams has some amount of positive camber at full droop, i`m building a set for a fullsize chevy now and the minimum amount of positive camber i have gotten so far is 2 1/2 degrees at full droop while having 3 1/2 at full bump, i still live on the east coast and i cant just run to a local shop to shoot the breeze about suspension design.
With beams there is going to be positive camber while drooping but with arms you dont want to have positive camber at all. Positive is =\ / Negative is = / \ It is always going to be different with every truck because there are so many variables. I wouldnt have any more than six at full bump and about 4 at full droop.
my main concern is what the front ends gonna do when it comes down off a jump or skipping along a whoop section with an excessive amount of positive camber when its at or close to full droop, with the arms i have planned now i`d only be at 2 1/2 maxed out and i have no problem with 22 inchs of usable travel, thanks for the help guys, it`d be alot easier if their was a desert on the east coast
Wait so you are building a chevy right? With a arms or I beams? With a arms you want no positive camber at all. I think that if you had positive camber on a armed truck that it would try to cause excess body roll. As well as putting more stress on your suspension and steering components.
Well since it is beams then you are going to have a pretty good deal of camber change. Are they equal length beams or not. If you are only gong to be getting 2 1/2 degrees of positive camber at full droop then I would say that is pretty good as most i beam trucks are getting much more than that. But if you are going to be getting that minimal amount of camber at full droop then what are you getting at full bump because it seems like you will get enourmous negative camber. Search for "any one have more pics of this truck?" and there is some pics of a class 8 with some crazy beams take a look at them. Solo motorsports is also doing a chevy with beams. Solo You cant see any beam pics but you can see the rest of the truck.
the ones i drew up with 2 1/2 positive at full droop had 5 degrees negative at full bump, the ones with 3 1/2 negative at full bump had 4 positive at full droop, i`m pretty set on the first design right now except for that fact that i have more up travel from ride height then i do down travel, i don`t know which would be better more up travel or more down travel, basically living on the east coast i`m shootin from the hip at what i think will work good, theres only so much i test out on mx tracks and fire roads out here.
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