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Mild Steel vs DOM

Discussion in 'Shop - Miscellaneous' started by motoxscott, Apr 1, 2002.

  1. motoxscott

    motoxscott Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2002
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA (SoCal)
    I'm curious if their is a big difference in strength between mild steel tubing and DOM.

    Reason I ask is I'm using 1-1/2" x .120 and pay $17.00 for a 20ft stick. They want $62.00 for a 24ft stick of DOM steel. I didn't even ask how much chrom-moly is.

    Thanks,

    -Scott
     
  2. Dylan

    Dylan Member

    Joined:
    May 12, 2001
    Location:
    Orange
    Yes there is a big difference. 1020 or1026 DOM is superior. This topic is has come up before, you should try doing a search of old posts on the topic, there is a lot of info available.

    Dylan
     
  3. DougM

    DougM Member

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2001
    Location:
    Poway / Ramona , CA
    Jeez where are you getting .120 x20ft for $17.00??

    Im in the process of building a set of bumpers and cant find anything under $20 for 10' .120 x 1.5" (IMS, Handy Metal Mart, EMS) here in town...

    please let me know.
     
  4. motoxscott

    motoxscott Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2002
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA (SoCal)
    I'm getting my steel through M&K Metal Supply in Gardena. They have a pretty good selection of stuff.

    I'll try seaching for more info on here, what is everyone else paying for DOM or even Chrom-moly ??
     
  5. vwguy

    vwguy Member

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2001
    Location:
    riverside ca
    for a 20' stick of mild steel i was paying 14 bucks .120 wall 1.5o.d. etc

    how ironic is it that most people slow down for speed bumps yet almost all of us here im sure pin it<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by vwguy on 04/02/02 10:14 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  6. Marshall

    Marshall Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2001
    Location:
    central Cal
    Three bucks is pretty much the going rate for 1.5x1.20 DOM.
     
  7. cleartoy

    cleartoy Member

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2001
    Location:
    Oceanside,CA
    I paid $19 for 20 ft of 1.5"x.120 round mild steel a month ago. Thats here in Vista @ Lees.

    85 Toyota xtracab 4x4(for sale)
    94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
    99 Yamaha YZ250

    Got Sand??
     
  8. sbro

    sbro Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2001
    Location:
    So Cal, CA
    Would non-DOM mild tubing be ERW?

    <font color=orange><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.desertrides.com>http://www.desertrides.com</A></font color=orange>
     
  9. TrucksR4Girls

    TrucksR4Girls Member

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2001
    Location:
    REDONDO BEACH, CA
    Im using mild steel for the bed cage,save money, and im using DOM or Chromoly for the cab and engine cage, since you dont need the real stronge stuff in the back, nothing to really protect! Up where I live they sell it Mild Steel for about 80 cents a foot?? something around there!

    " Hondas are like Tampons, Every Pu*sy has one!"
     
  10. jcarius

    jcarius Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2001
    If you're trying to make material decisions, pick yourself up a copy of Carrol Smith's "Engineer to Win". He's got an ego that makes him a litle hard to read, but he does a pretty decent job of explaining 'materials engineering for dummies'.

    DOM (Drawn over Mandrel) & ERW (ElectroResistance Welded) are manufacturing methods, not grades or specific alloys of steel.

    Please, make sure you do your research before you build. Having the cage that's supposed to save your life collapse, or having a piece of tubing from an 'unimportant' part of your vehicle break loose and impale you can ruin your whole day ....

    Jim
     
  11. shroom27

    shroom27 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2001
    Location:
    southern CA
    I paid $4 something/ft. for .120x1.5 at Schorr Metals in Anaheim.
     
  12. ntsqd

    ntsqd Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2001
    Location:
    Here
    I wouldn't say Carroll Smith has an Ego that makes him hard to read so much as I'd say he is a character. I met him at the SEMA show years ago and he is just like how he reads in person. If he has an inflated Ego, it's because of his successes that date back to b4 he went to work for Carroll Shelby in the infancy of Shelby American.
    And if you think his materials explaination is tough reading, don't even try an Engineering text. I used "Engineer to Win" as a second source all thru Materials class and other engineering classes. When the class text got bogged down, I looked up his treatise of the topic and usually got it the first time thru.

    TS

    "Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
    -- Howdy Lee
     
  13. jcarius

    jcarius Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2001
    Actually, the reason I recommended the book is because the information is accurate and well presented. My better half is a real honest-to-god materials engineer, and she thinks the world of the books.

    My point was that if you're gonna build stuff it's good to understand what you're building out of. As as extension, if you're spending hard earned cash on materials, it's good to know what to ask for. My experiance with metal suppliers has been very mixed - some really understand their products, but most seem to just be order takers.

    As far as Mr. Smith's personality, I bet he's a hell of a guy to have a beer with. I just find his attitude towards those who have differing opinions (at least what I glean from his books) a little rough.

    Hasn't kept me from reading 'em all :)

    Jim
     

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