Bunderson Builds good cars , looking at the car you will need to put it on a diet . My Bunderson that was run bitd was at 1850 pounds with all the un needed things on the car
We were kicking it around for a couple weeks too.$14k... smoking deal
Nice picture. What do you propose we could do to put it on the said diet? Comparing it to our other car, it seems like it has "just enough" tubes that are strategically sized and placed. The other thing is that we ( drivers & co dawgs ) are on average 220 lb dudes.
This one at McKenziesDo you have a part number or know who sells them?
Donaldson DuraLite several options out there: https://www.donaldson.com/content/d...ght-dust/DuraLite-ECB-ECC-ECD-Air-Cleaner.pdfDo you have a part number or know who sells them?
Explain the taller side wall with a 16" rim? Is there still a good reason to run 16" wheels with all the tire choices we have today?use the 15s for now,replace as needed with 16s.16s taller side wall feel better.the 002 is a great trans,again update to 091as needed.094 just NO.
Awesome info for all! Wow...you take this seriously, that is a lot of parts to mag!I’ll try to answer questions for you, from my experience racing is 1600. I’ll start front and work to the back, front end Springs I run stock take outs usually last me a year, tape them with electrical tape like someone else said and tap them through, make sure your divots are all relatively lined up or when you tighten the grub screws the springs can move or crack, beam bushings I can get about 4 or 5 races out of them, front arms I run in one direction only with the bolt head for the crimp bolt at the bottom, others run them at the top, but I’ve never broken a bolt head off in 20 some years, arms get magged every race, spindals do as well as link pins. King pins are directional before you put the link pins in hold the spin dal up to the arms and it should touch both top and bottom arms fairly close. I use the idiots vw book by the way as well setting my link pin shims, I grease the link pins before installing.
My Saco rack I rebuild every other race and mag both pinion and rack as well as steering shafts.
Rear torsion bars I run Tcs 300m only I use anti seeze on the ends and grease the bars to keep from rusting, bars and torsion fingers get magged every race as well as spring plates, rear arms, axles, and stub axles.
Fingers get installed with bars so fingers are flat on stop, bars are directional and will break quickly if installed backwards as well as axles, and stub axles.
Spring plates in my car get set at a dead set, no preload, some cars need a little preload, bushing last 3 or 4 races usually. I run empi race cvs and have never broke one and they last usually 7 or 8 races, at half the cost of others. I run King shocks that I rebuild every other race, my trans is built by Folts and motor by Wiks, gearing and motors have definitely changed, I’m switching to a pump gas motor.
Your firewall for your fuel cell is fine, for grease I use maxima waterproof grease, cv grease in belrey.
Most importantly like Kenny said it’s all about seat time and getting up to the pace of 1600, it takes some time. Prep is a learning experience the thing I tell people if it’s fighting you going together you need to stop and find out why, hope that helps.