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1/2 1600 thread ONLY

turbodon

Well-Known Member
$14k... smoking deal
We were kicking it around for a couple weeks too.
I kept telling my buddy it's too good to be true, why isn't it sold already?!?
My guess is the guy's location is the reason it sat on the market for over 2 weeks or whatever it was.
And better yet, we got it for 13k!
 

turbodon

Well-Known Member
Bunderson Builds good cars , looking at the car you will need to put it on a diet . My Bunderson that was run bitd was at 1850 pounds with all the un needed things on the carView attachment 204766
Nice picture. What do you propose we could do to put it on the said diet? Comparing it to our other car, it seems like it has "just enough" tubes that are strategically sized and placed. The other thing is that we ( drivers & co dawgs ) are on average 220 lb dudes. :eek:
 

snoreracer

Well-Known Member
look at the battery and air cleaner you can cut 35 LB then look at the extra sheet metal and skid plates ,the light bar on the top that is 10 lb
 

harleys dad

Well-Known Member
we have a Bunderson single seat, anything that does not need to go for a ride remove
 

Fourstroker

Well-Known Member
Do you have a part number or know who sells them?
This one at McKenzies

 

Deenracing

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any tips or tricks for putting the front leaf springs back in? Specifically into the adjusters, but also the arms.
I always start with the outside springs and work my way in. Grease everyone individually also.
 

harleys dad

Well-Known Member
if your using aftermarket leefs we have put them in my 51600 since the 70s dry with no issues at all, in our 1600 cars we use stock Vw right out of a stock beam weather dry or greasy than crap. Have not once greased sway away ever and see no reason for it. Only reason Vw leafs have grease all over them is over lubing the bushings for 40 years or more at the lube shop. Vw did not grease the leafs at the factory either Once the leafs get to the center it just squezes the grease to the outside anyway, leaving one side with grease and 1 side pretty much with out.
good luck
 

PB Racing

New Member
Hello all, we will coming back to racing in a 1/2 1600 car for next season, we are formerly class 11 racers , I have a couple questions, I see some people racing in 16" wheels, my car is running 15" , is there any advantage using taller wheels/tires?? also my car has a Folts 002 trans, its that enough to start with or would you recommend to move to a 091 ?? I see on the Weddle webpage they have a 094 trans, is that better??
 

brad inch

Well-Known Member
use the 15s for now,replace as needed with 16s.16s taller side wall feel better.the 002 is a great trans,again update to 091as needed.094 just NO.
 

Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
use the 15s for now,replace as needed with 16s.16s taller side wall feel better.the 002 is a great trans,again update to 091as needed.094 just NO.
Explain the taller side wall with a 16" rim? Is there still a good reason to run 16" wheels with all the tire choices we have today?
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
i read on another thread the 235 85 16 , 10pr ,80 psi,is one of the reasons for 16", same as on my motorhome, pretty tuff chunk of rubber
 
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brad inch

Well-Known Member
they roll over small holes better and alot of guys run the same tires on the front and back.so there spare fits both,rob started do this and he said that the bfg front was the best tire at the time.he had to run bfgs.go to some races and see whats the latest choices
 
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buggyracer1677

RDC User
I’ll try to answer questions for you, from my experience racing is 1600. I’ll start front and work to the back, front end Springs I run stock take outs usually last me a year, tape them with electrical tape like someone else said and tap them through, make sure your divots are all relatively lined up or when you tighten the grub screws the springs can move or crack, beam bushings I can get about 4 or 5 races out of them, front arms I run in one direction only with the bolt head for the crimp bolt at the bottom, others run them at the top, but I’ve never broken a bolt head off in 20 some years, arms get magged every race, spindals do as well as link pins. King pins are directional before you put the link pins in hold the spin dal up to the arms and it should touch both top and bottom arms fairly close. I use the idiots vw book by the way as well setting my link pin shims, I grease the link pins before installing.
My Saco rack I rebuild every other race and mag both pinion and rack as well as steering shafts.
Rear torsion bars I run Tcs 300m only I use anti seeze on the ends and grease the bars to keep from rusting, bars and torsion fingers get magged every race as well as spring plates, rear arms, axles, and stub axles.
Fingers get installed with bars so fingers are flat on stop, bars are directional and will break quickly if installed backwards as well as axles, and stub axles.
Spring plates in my car get set at a dead set, no preload, some cars need a little preload, bushing last 3 or 4 races usually. I run empi race cvs and have never broke one and they last usually 7 or 8 races, at half the cost of others. I run King shocks that I rebuild every other race, my trans is built by Folts and motor by Wiks, gearing and motors have definitely changed, I’m switching to a pump gas motor.
Your firewall for your fuel cell is fine, for grease I use maxima waterproof grease, cv grease in belrey.
Most importantly like Kenny said it’s all about seat time and getting up to the pace of 1600, it takes some time. Prep is a learning experience the thing I tell people if it’s fighting you going together you need to stop and find out why, hope that helps.
 

Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
I’ll try to answer questions for you, from my experience racing is 1600. I’ll start front and work to the back, front end Springs I run stock take outs usually last me a year, tape them with electrical tape like someone else said and tap them through, make sure your divots are all relatively lined up or when you tighten the grub screws the springs can move or crack, beam bushings I can get about 4 or 5 races out of them, front arms I run in one direction only with the bolt head for the crimp bolt at the bottom, others run them at the top, but I’ve never broken a bolt head off in 20 some years, arms get magged every race, spindals do as well as link pins. King pins are directional before you put the link pins in hold the spin dal up to the arms and it should touch both top and bottom arms fairly close. I use the idiots vw book by the way as well setting my link pin shims, I grease the link pins before installing.
My Saco rack I rebuild every other race and mag both pinion and rack as well as steering shafts.
Rear torsion bars I run Tcs 300m only I use anti seeze on the ends and grease the bars to keep from rusting, bars and torsion fingers get magged every race as well as spring plates, rear arms, axles, and stub axles.
Fingers get installed with bars so fingers are flat on stop, bars are directional and will break quickly if installed backwards as well as axles, and stub axles.
Spring plates in my car get set at a dead set, no preload, some cars need a little preload, bushing last 3 or 4 races usually. I run empi race cvs and have never broke one and they last usually 7 or 8 races, at half the cost of others. I run King shocks that I rebuild every other race, my trans is built by Folts and motor by Wiks, gearing and motors have definitely changed, I’m switching to a pump gas motor.
Your firewall for your fuel cell is fine, for grease I use maxima waterproof grease, cv grease in belrey.
Most importantly like Kenny said it’s all about seat time and getting up to the pace of 1600, it takes some time. Prep is a learning experience the thing I tell people if it’s fighting you going together you need to stop and find out why, hope that helps.
Awesome info for all! Wow...you take this seriously, that is a lot of parts to mag!

Thanks for taking the time and helping me and the class with the info. I know others might do some things different, so it's nice to get as many opinions as possible.
 
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