12 car rear calipers

westtexasbaja

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Are 2 piston rear calipers enough for a single seat (1800lbs) 12 car? Or are 4 pistons needed?

Thanks,
Grayson
 

Fourstroker

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Are 2 piston rear calipers enough for a single seat (1800lbs) 12 car? Or are 4 pistons needed?

Thanks,
Grayson
You need 4 piston for the rear for sure
 

Erik Irvine

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I would price Pro-Am too. I have Pro-Am (Kartek) and I am happy with them, especially since I can drive up the road and they have everything in-stock
 

westtexasbaja

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I would price Pro-Am too. I have Pro-Am (Kartek) and I am happy with them, especially since I can drive up the road and they have everything in-stock
Does Pro-Am make a non-micro stub kit? I have not seen one.

CNC has a aluminum hub.....wouldn't this wear faster than the cast drums??

Jamar says it has a chromoly center....seems like this would be better.

Anybody have experience with these?
 

westtexasbaja

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Does Pro-Am make a non-micro stub kit? I have not seen one.

CNC has a aluminum hub.....wouldn't this wear faster than the cast drums??

Jamar says it has a chromoly center....seems like this would be better.

Anybody have experience with these?
Can't afford Pro-Ams or CNC....

Trying to decide between Tatum and Jamar...
 

Fourstroker

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Can't afford Pro-Ams or CNC....

Trying to decide between Tatum and Jamar...
I have had good luck with the Tatum calipers so far. 5 years on my prerunner and a full season on my race car so far. I have run CNC with plenty of succes as well. Don't sweat the aluminum hubs as they all have the steel centers on them.
 

racer56

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Just buy Wilwood calipers. Great price, great quality and available everywhere.
 

Demp

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Demp

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Fourstroker

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good thing the car has new bearings!! jajaja :rolleyes:
I wouldn't be worrying about the bearings. They are dime a dozen at Auto Zone. The Jamar's have different splines on the stub axle though. So finding those might be difficult
 

westtexasbaja

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I have had good luck with the Tatum calipers so far. 5 years on my prerunner and a full season on my race car so far. I have run CNC with plenty of succes as well. Don't sweat the aluminum hubs as they all have the steel centers on them.
Do you use the Tatum hubs as well?

Thanks for the info.
 

Fourstroker

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Do you use the Tatum hubs as well?

Thanks for the info.
Not that particular type but yes. I have their Midboard hubs on both my prerunner and race car. ZERO issues in about 9000 combined miles
 

westtexasbaja

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Not that particular type but yes. I have their Midboard hubs on both my prerunner and race car. ZERO issues in about 9000 combined miles
Hey 'Stroker is this normal? The splines on the hub (and old drum) are longer than the splines on the stub axle. Probably no big deal, I just don't want the axle to dig into the hub like it did to the old drum.... BTW, they are T1/930 stubs.
 

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Fourstroker

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Run your nut on by hand. If it looks like you will be able to get the cotter key in you are good to go. Other wise I would check your spacer arrangement. Looks like the hub will pull in a little furthur by torquing. One of the reasons I hate Type 1 stuff. Too much stuff to check/remember.
 

westtexasbaja

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Run your nut on by hand. If it looks like you will be able to get the cotter key in you are good to go. Other wise I would check your spacer arrangement. Looks like the hub will pull in a little furthur by torquing. One of the reasons I hate Type 1 stuff. Too much stuff to check/remember.
Maybe a little. I can get the cotter in no prob.

Thanks.
 
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