14 bolt axle advice needed

86F-onefifty

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The stock, 8.5in. 10 bolt axle under my Silverado is about to leave the building, and I'm not interested in reusing it...So, I'm in the process of building a 6-lug, 10.5in, 14 bolt FF axle. Nothing against the Ford 9in., I just want to try something different.
The issue I'm facing now is that that with the new hubs, the wms-to-wms spacing is going to be around 65in. I need that dimension to be 68-69in.
Building a wider housing and buying custom axles/drive plates isn't in the budget at the moment, so I'm looking into wheel spacers. I understand that the use of them is less than ideal.

-Would it be better to run slide-on spacers with longer studs (by SAW, ARP etc.) or bolt-on wheel spacers that provide a 2nd set of studs? Given both options could be hub-centric and the wheel pilot section of each hub is 3in. L x 4.25in. Dia.

Any ideas?
 

ChromolyKid

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Between those 2 options, I'd run the 2nd set of lug studs. The longer the stud, the more it will stretch when torqued, which to me means higher chance of failure. Use lots of Loctite!

FWIW, my uncle had a 14-bolt GM under his 'Burban, worked AWESOME. Go for it!
 

cs_drums

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Another option is you could possibly tap your hub and the space and use a thread in stud. Torque it down from the hub and so a tack it.
 
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The wms to wms of a standard 14 Bolt Full Floater is 67 inches - you wanted 68 to 69 - not much difference there. A Van 14BFF is 71 inches. The stock bolt pattern is 8 on 6.5" and you want 6 on 5.5" - that is your real problem. There are aftermarket aluminum hubs available in 6 on 5.5" but not too cheap. You can modify the stock hub by turning down the dia. of the outer hub and axle flange and turning off the webbing on the back side of the hub and drilling the desired lug pattern - I've done it in the past. The resulting wheel mounting flange is only about 5/8" thick and is a little weak.
 

86F-onefifty

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Thanks for the suggestions^
Received Spyntec hubs and picked up wheel spacers last week; hubs 6 on 5.5, but 5 on 5.5 is also available. Parts are at the shop getting machined. Spacers getting bored out to, and axle flanges getting turned down to 4.25in. +/-. *Has to run socket heads or 12pt's @ the flange for the wheel to fit over.
Moving on to brake setup etc pretty soon. CS thanks for the link, lots of good info on there. If anyone wants the stock hubs, (srw with drum on the back) I have some available, free.

Offset on each hub is an inch inward from the srw hub (65in wms converted), outward an inch from the drw hub (74in wms converted on a dually housing).

n2d455.png
 

ChromolyKid

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Finished up last weekend. New problem, safety wire advice needed haha. Here's my first try


I try to wrap the entire wire around at least once on each bolt head, laid underneath itself to prevent it from slipping off. I would do the same thing on the last bolt, run off of it and go underneath the wire on the first bolt, wrap once, and tie off. Very time consuming but most things when it comes to race prep, when done right, aren't quick and easy. This way it is symmetrical and doubly secured. But I've also been called obsessive and overly meticulous, so that's up to you.
 

86F-onefifty

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400 before tax/shipping. Since doing this, I noticed RCV Performance does some drive flanges for 14 bolts. Would have been nice, just not in my budget.
 
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