14YO's 1971 F-250 LWB build

Fire Kid

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Hey since you Modding the arms why not cut the ends off and put hyme joints on the ends. Be well worth it for added flex
 

1971Ford

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Because we are only getting 12" front travel, i-beam pivot is not holding us back. Radius arm mounting is holding us back, as well as the coil itself.

Beams should be where the red line is. Something isn't right here



 

AussieFSJracer

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Well done, Ryan. I wish some of the young guys around here would have a similar interest rather than speeding around like idiots and doing burnouts everywhere. Kudos, kid, keep it up. Cheers from Australia. :D
 

1971Ford

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Thanks!

Today I had my boss at the welding shop bend my 1 ton beams and do a little weld on them so i can put them on the truck and check camber before fully welding and putting the plates on.
I bent them to bring the pivot hole up to 6.5". I don't remember exactly but I believe i did it at 7 1/4" or 7 "last time. There should be about zero camber this time, we will see this weekend.

It should be my daily driver again in about a week.
 

AussieFSJracer

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Zero to 1 degree neg camber is good. Neg camber will help with turn in, as the outside tire flexes through the sidewall when the weight transfers across the front. With the tire leaning in slightly, the tread surface will stay flatter for longer. If you can afford them, put air bumps on the front beams to help the upper end of bump travel. ;)
 

Mark Newhan

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Zero to 1 degree neg camber is good. Neg camber will help with turn in, as the outside tire flexes through the sidewall when the weight transfers across the front. With the tire leaning in slightly, the tread surface will stay flatter for longer. If you can afford them, put air bumps on the front beams to help the upper end of bump travel. ;)

By their very nature an I-Beam front end creates negitive camber as the suspension compresses and increases caster, so with body roll the increase in caster and camber help to keep the tires contact patch on the ground.
 

AussieFSJracer

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By their very nature an I-Beam front end creates negitive camber as the suspension compresses and increases caster, so with body roll the increase in caster and camber help to keep the tires contact patch on the ground.

Sorry, should have referred to this as the static setting at ride height. I agree with your comment :D
 

AussieFSJracer

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Ryan, try pruning off as much un-necessary weight you can, especially off the front. Every 100 lbs of weight is equivalet to 10 extra HP ;)
 

1971Ford

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I got the new beams on. I bent them both exactly the same, I quadruple checked. Both exactly 6.5" to top of pivot hole when radius arm bolt hole is clamped to metal bench.

And now my drivers side wheel has more negative camber than the other side. Way to go me.


Truck is now my daily driver again.

-Pulled 3/4 ton suspension off, trashed it.
-Grabbed my 1 ton spare beams, pie cut, bent, welded, plated, installed
-installed Napa auto parts $60 shocks as temporary replacements. I'm getting my bent shock shaft re-made.
-Swapped Saginaw steering box for a new Saginaw box that i stripped and POR-15's that doesn't leak!
-Swapped power steering pump for one that works, new power steering belt
-Swapped edelbrock carb for Holley 500 two barrel. Best decision EVER.
-yanked my burned out Holley red fuel pump and installed a Holley Blue pump and regulator


Old



New (1 ton). Pie cut, bent, welded, plated.



New Holley blue fuel pump and regulator and System 1 filter


Nice Derale transmission cooler mounted to replace the one that broke


New Holley 500 2 barrel carb that kicks my old edelbrock 750's butt! Also new Saginaw power steering pump stripped and POR-15'd that doesn't leak!!! New junkyard power steering pump that actually pumps now. New power steering belt.
Diehard Holley fan now...




I'm cutting the 3 cross tubes to fit my dirt bikes, i am going to make them removable.
 

AussieFSJracer

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Better you build a trailer to carry your bikes and tow it behind you. Its a shame to cut up your bedcage just to carry bikes. ;)
 

1971Ford

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yeah, but I'm only cutting out those 3 cross tubes. The rear one is not even welded in, it was just tacked before the race so that will knock right out. THe other two I was going to cut out and re-do anyways because the welds looked horrible because i did them otuside of a buddies shop on a windy day so i had nooooo shielding.
I'll just Cut the tubes out, get some new 1.5" tubing, weld 2" stubs on each side where the tubes go, and put flanges onthem and the tuebs will be removable and strong.
 

AussieFSJracer

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sounds reasonable :D make a cover plate for your fuel cell and protect the top from your bikes tyres. Or better still, have another truck for your bikes and jeep your race truck for racing ;)
 

AussieFSJracer

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sorry, keep (dam keyboard )
 

9Iron

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So, What happenned to the seat?
Something you picked up from Rick?
(remember last year's night race bbq...)
 

AussieFSJracer

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Ryan,
Any more progress? :D
 

1971Ford

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The seat lit on fire while welding the cage to the cab. I've got a fellow VORRA'er selling me a nice beard this weekend at the race (not racing, we were going to but just decided not to) So i will put that in my spot and put my good drivers seat in the passenger spot, and make a office chair out of the fire seat or something.

But as for progress, none really. just driving it every day... saving for coilovers. Well I have about $1200 which will get me coilovers off here or DR plus coils both sides, but I'm waiting for a little more moneys...
 

1971Ford

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oops never showed you guys the cab welded to the cage. 1/3 done.







Engine cage will go through at these points


My time has been going into the chase/prerun/recovery/parts-delivery/pit bike!



 
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