The seat lit on fire while welding the cage to the cab. I've got a fellow VORRA'er selling me a nice beard this weekend at the race (not racing, we were going to but just decided not to) So i will put that in my spot and put my good drivers seat in the passenger spot, and make a office chair out of the fire seat or something.
But as for progress, none really. just driving it every day... saving for coilovers. Well I have about $1200 which will get me coilovers off here or DR plus coils both sides, but I'm waiting for a little more moneys...
yeah, but I'm only cutting out those 3 cross tubes. The rear one is not even welded in, it was just tacked before the race so that will knock right out. THe other two I was going to cut out and re-do anyways because the welds looked horrible because i did them otuside of a buddies shop on a windy day so i had nooooo shielding.
I'll just Cut the tubes out, get some new 1.5" tubing, weld 2" stubs on each side where the tubes go, and put flanges onthem and the tuebs will be removable and strong.
I am sure I will be making my own beams, not sure when though. For now I plan on running my current set of bent 1 ton beams, and building heimed, lengthened radius arms.cool! so your going to be building some beams for your truck?
Man I just finished reading this entire thread. . .it took me an entire day to get through it!!!, but it was well worth it!!!
A couple of suggestions. . .one thing that I have repeatedly seen mentioned throughout this thread that has caused you a lot of headaches and damaged parts are bolts loosening. . .and I see that you are relying on lock washers (at least from what I have read). Ditch the lock washers (except for in blind applications) and get nyloc nuts!!! It makes assembly/disassembly take a little longer, but you won't have bolts/nut loosening on you. . .instead of plain old split lock washers for the blind applications use the locking tab washers for every application that they are available for (can't remember the name of the company right now off the top of my head) and for all applications that these tabs these tabs aren't available for (or you can't fab your own lock-tab washers for) drill the bolt heads and lock wire them. . .
. . .I'm really surprised that this isn't required more by regulating bodies, I come from a nuclear power background and we use the crap out of the lock wire bolts. . .if you don't know what I'm talking about you should invest in Carroll Smith's book "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook". . .all of his books are worth the $20 they cost. . .you would probably profit the most from the aforementioned book and "Prepare to Win" at the point you are at now.
My other suggestion would be to hold off on "beating" on the truck when it isn't ready to be beat on. . .I know it's hard, but you just bent the "HOLY CRAP" out of a shock shaft and you aren't sure why, but you ran the shock with undersize bolts in it and spoke of the rattling you experienced. . .you may not have noticed any damage visually after doing that, but I guarantee that damaged the shocks and the mount!!! As I mentioned previously I come from a nuclear power background. . .I spent 9 years as a nuclear machinist/nuclear water chemist, got a degree in welding and am currently working as a tool & die maker while I work on finishing my mechanical engineering degree. . .I have had to learn a LOT about metallurgy and you are doing more damage than you realize by running the truck like that. . .
this will save you money, time, and headaches down the road.
Instead of flanges use the bolt-together tube clamps like Camburg, Ballistic, BTF, etc. mak and sell. . .in fact what size tubing are you using and I might have some that I can donate to you. . .I was going to use them on my '79 F-150 (and probably will at some point in the future) but they will probably get more immediate use from you. . .and you have inspired me enought to donate to the cause if you are interested. I will have to see how many I have, but I'm pretty sure I have at least four tube clamps that are for 2.00" x 0.120" tubing. . .might have more, but even if it's only four that's enough for 2/3 of the tubes that you plan on cutting.
Enough with what I hope you will view as constructive criticism. . .the entire day that it took me to read through this thread was well worth it!!! If for no other reason than you lit a fire under my butt to get back to work on my projects that have been getting ignored for the last three months for whatever excuse I could think of. . .
. . .you and your dad should be extremely proud of what you have accomplished on such a limited budget and in such a short period of time!!! Many have started down that path before and you will find their unfinished projects in the classified section. . .one other thing. . .
. . .treasure this time with your dad. . .it is AWESOME that you two are working on and racing this truck together! I just lost my dad a month ago and I can't begin to tell you how much I miss him!!! I have to check myself on almost daily basis when I get the urge to talk about something that I'm working on at work that he would find interesting and I have to remind myself that he is gone. . .like I said treasure this tim and make the most of this time that you have together!!!
Good Luck and keep the updates coming. . .you have come a LONG way and it is AWESOME to someone your age accomplishing so much in such a short time and on such a short budget!!! I love these old Ford builds. . .as mentioned earlier we have a '79 F-150 that I wanna build into a desert rig, but I've got 5 other project vehicles to finish before I can start another project!!!
exactly what I was thinking. hmm Maybe instead of building radius arm's I'll jump right into a J-beam setup. That would give a larger area for tabs for the coilovers and future bypasses.