14YO's 1971 F-250 LWB build

AussieFSJracer

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Good going. :D:D
 

9Iron

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Going to bring 871 to Prairie City next month?
Thank you again for your assistance at the ck-2 pit.
Keep the greasy side down...

The seat lit on fire while welding the cage to the cab. I've got a fellow VORRA'er selling me a nice beard this weekend at the race (not racing, we were going to but just decided not to) So i will put that in my spot and put my good drivers seat in the passenger spot, and make a office chair out of the fire seat or something.

But as for progress, none really. just driving it every day... saving for coilovers. Well I have about $1200 which will get me coilovers off here or DR plus coils both sides, but I'm waiting for a little more moneys...
 

1971Ford

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Definately not racing any shortcourse but it should be there since it's my DD.
The race after next it might not be there, because I am finishing my '69 4x4 right now, and once it is done, the '71 is getting parked quite some time.
 
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i got a beat up 69 F250 but love the **
OOH LA LA****
OOH LA LA****
OOH LA LA****
OOH LA LA****
OOH LA LA** out of it. good luck on your truck!
 

1971Ford

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Take that '69 f250 and turn it into a beast!


A couple weeks ago I drove the truck for the last time in a long time. It looks so sad in there. It's actually shoved even further back now because my brother picked up another bronco (a 94 with lots of goodies) so thats in front of my truck.



Today I got a shipment from Nick Isenhouer (Brodozer Motorsports!!!) containing 2 2.5x16" SAW RaceRunner coilovers that were on his bumpside and now going on mine!
Just need to pick up dual rate coils.



Then we got a welder (brother payed for it, yay for brother)


And now he's in the process of ordering a JD2 tubing bender
 

atomicjoe23

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Man I just finished reading this entire thread. . .it took me an entire day to get through it!!!, but it was well worth it!!!

A couple of suggestions. . .one thing that I have repeatedly seen mentioned throughout this thread that has caused you a lot of headaches and damaged parts are bolts loosening. . .and I see that you are relying on lock washers (at least from what I have read). Ditch the lock washers (except for in blind applications) and get nyloc nuts!!! It makes assembly/disassembly take a little longer, but you won't have bolts/nut loosening on you. . .instead of plain old split lock washers for the blind applications use the locking tab washers for every application that they are available for (can't remember the name of the company right now off the top of my head) and for all applications that these tabs these tabs aren't available for (or you can't fab your own lock-tab washers for) drill the bolt heads and lock wire them. . .

. . .I'm really surprised that this isn't required more by regulating bodies, I come from a nuclear power background and we use the crap out of the lock wire bolts. . .if you don't know what I'm talking about you should invest in Carroll Smith's book "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook". . .all of his books are worth the $20 they cost. . .you would probably profit the most from the aforementioned book and "Prepare to Win" at the point you are at now.

My other suggestion would be to hold off on "beating" on the truck when it isn't ready to be beat on. . .I know it's hard, but you just bent the "HOLY CRAP" out of a shock shaft and you aren't sure why, but you ran the shock with undersize bolts in it and spoke of the rattling you experienced. . .you may not have noticed any damage visually after doing that, but I guarantee that damaged the shocks and the mount!!! As I mentioned previously I come from a nuclear power background. . .I spent 9 years as a nuclear machinist/nuclear water chemist, got a degree in welding and am currently working as a tool & die maker while I work on finishing my mechanical engineering degree. . .I have had to learn a LOT about metallurgy and you are doing more damage than you realize by running the truck like that. . .
this will save you money, time, and headaches down the road.

yeah, but I'm only cutting out those 3 cross tubes. The rear one is not even welded in, it was just tacked before the race so that will knock right out. THe other two I was going to cut out and re-do anyways because the welds looked horrible because i did them otuside of a buddies shop on a windy day so i had nooooo shielding.
I'll just Cut the tubes out, get some new 1.5" tubing, weld 2" stubs on each side where the tubes go, and put flanges onthem and the tuebs will be removable and strong.

Instead of flanges use the bolt-together tube clamps like Camburg, Ballistic, BTF, etc. mak and sell. . .in fact what size tubing are you using and I might have some that I can donate to you. . .I was going to use them on my '79 F-150 (and probably will at some point in the future) but they will probably get more immediate use from you. . .and you have inspired me enought to donate to the cause if you are interested. I will have to see how many I have, but I'm pretty sure I have at least four tube clamps that are for 2.00" x 0.120" tubing. . .might have more, but even if it's only four that's enough for 2/3 of the tubes that you plan on cutting.

Enough with what I hope you will view as constructive criticism. . .the entire day that it took me to read through this thread was well worth it!!! If for no other reason than you lit a fire under my butt to get back to work on my projects that have been getting ignored for the last three months for whatever excuse I could think of. . .

. . .you and your dad should be extremely proud of what you have accomplished on such a limited budget and in such a short period of time!!! Many have started down that path before and you will find their unfinished projects in the classified section. . .one other thing. . .

. . .treasure this time with your dad. . .it is AWESOME that you two are working on and racing this truck together! I just lost my dad a month ago and I can't begin to tell you how much I miss him!!! I have to check myself on almost daily basis when I get the urge to talk about something that I'm working on at work that he would find interesting and I have to remind myself that he is gone. . .like I said treasure this tim and make the most of this time that you have together!!!

Good Luck and keep the updates coming. . .you have come a LONG way and it is AWESOME to someone your age accomplishing so much in such a short time and on such a short budget!!! I love these old Ford builds. . .as mentioned earlier we have a '79 F-150 that I wanna build into a desert rig, but I've got 5 other project vehicles to finish before I can start another project!!!
 

1971Ford

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cool! so your going to be building some beams for your truck?
I am sure I will be making my own beams, not sure when though. For now I plan on running my current set of bent 1 ton beams, and building heimed, lengthened radius arms.


Man I just finished reading this entire thread. . .it took me an entire day to get through it!!!, but it was well worth it!!!

A couple of suggestions. . .one thing that I have repeatedly seen mentioned throughout this thread that has caused you a lot of headaches and damaged parts are bolts loosening. . .and I see that you are relying on lock washers (at least from what I have read). Ditch the lock washers (except for in blind applications) and get nyloc nuts!!! It makes assembly/disassembly take a little longer, but you won't have bolts/nut loosening on you. . .instead of plain old split lock washers for the blind applications use the locking tab washers for every application that they are available for (can't remember the name of the company right now off the top of my head) and for all applications that these tabs these tabs aren't available for (or you can't fab your own lock-tab washers for) drill the bolt heads and lock wire them. . .

. . .I'm really surprised that this isn't required more by regulating bodies, I come from a nuclear power background and we use the crap out of the lock wire bolts. . .if you don't know what I'm talking about you should invest in Carroll Smith's book "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook". . .all of his books are worth the $20 they cost. . .you would probably profit the most from the aforementioned book and "Prepare to Win" at the point you are at now.

My other suggestion would be to hold off on "beating" on the truck when it isn't ready to be beat on. . .I know it's hard, but you just bent the "HOLY CRAP" out of a shock shaft and you aren't sure why, but you ran the shock with undersize bolts in it and spoke of the rattling you experienced. . .you may not have noticed any damage visually after doing that, but I guarantee that damaged the shocks and the mount!!! As I mentioned previously I come from a nuclear power background. . .I spent 9 years as a nuclear machinist/nuclear water chemist, got a degree in welding and am currently working as a tool & die maker while I work on finishing my mechanical engineering degree. . .I have had to learn a LOT about metallurgy and you are doing more damage than you realize by running the truck like that. . .
this will save you money, time, and headaches down the road.



Instead of flanges use the bolt-together tube clamps like Camburg, Ballistic, BTF, etc. mak and sell. . .in fact what size tubing are you using and I might have some that I can donate to you. . .I was going to use them on my '79 F-150 (and probably will at some point in the future) but they will probably get more immediate use from you. . .and you have inspired me enought to donate to the cause if you are interested. I will have to see how many I have, but I'm pretty sure I have at least four tube clamps that are for 2.00" x 0.120" tubing. . .might have more, but even if it's only four that's enough for 2/3 of the tubes that you plan on cutting.

Enough with what I hope you will view as constructive criticism. . .the entire day that it took me to read through this thread was well worth it!!! If for no other reason than you lit a fire under my butt to get back to work on my projects that have been getting ignored for the last three months for whatever excuse I could think of. . .

. . .you and your dad should be extremely proud of what you have accomplished on such a limited budget and in such a short period of time!!! Many have started down that path before and you will find their unfinished projects in the classified section. . .one other thing. . .

. . .treasure this time with your dad. . .it is AWESOME that you two are working on and racing this truck together! I just lost my dad a month ago and I can't begin to tell you how much I miss him!!! I have to check myself on almost daily basis when I get the urge to talk about something that I'm working on at work that he would find interesting and I have to remind myself that he is gone. . .like I said treasure this tim and make the most of this time that you have together!!!

Good Luck and keep the updates coming. . .you have come a LONG way and it is AWESOME to someone your age accomplishing so much in such a short time and on such a short budget!!! I love these old Ford builds. . .as mentioned earlier we have a '79 F-150 that I wanna build into a desert rig, but I've got 5 other project vehicles to finish before I can start another project!!!

Thanks atomicJoe for the reply and constructive criticism...
I'll definitely be changing my ways of using just lock washers. You're right and I haven't really realized it, that I've had a few loosening nut problems. I think the nylock nuts would be worth the extra tear down time for sure.
I'm familiar with wiring bolt heads and it seems like a sure way to keep bolts tight. I may have to get off my lazy butt and start doing a little bit of that where i can.

As for the removable bed tubes, those arn't going to be removable anymore. I cut them out to put my dirtbike in the bed and was going to put flanges so I could have it removable but I am now driving my '69 f250 4x4 restoration of 3 years so I've got a full bed now! If all goes as planned the spare tires will not be how they were last season, but instead standing up again between the bedside and the cage sitting in a cradle. This is just as long as the shackle clears. This will fill in the space between the cage and the bedside so it doesn't look funny when i hang the bedsides.
I'm cutting out all of the bed and skinning the bedsides and hanging them.

I agree with not beating the truck until it is beatable, that is exactly the reason I backed out of the last race. Racing the truck felt like I was tearing it apart being the caged wasn't welded to the cab and there was obviously some geometry wrong or bumpstop mounting was wrong in the front end.
Once it's back on the dirt in a few months with coilovers and the cage is welded to the cab in many areas It will be plenty ready.
 

Haycock

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when you get ready to build the beams or the radius arms let me know and i will donate some time on them if you want...
 

1971Ford

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Sounds great man, I'd love to get all the help i can get.
What do you think about J-beams?
 

Haycock

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i dont really have any experience with either style but i kinda like a J-beam just because i dont like things bolted together that dont need to be...
 

1971Ford

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exactly what I was thinking. hmm Maybe instead of building radius arm's I'll jump right into a J-beam setup. That would give a larger area for tabs for the coilovers and future bypasses.
 

BRINGTHERUCKUS

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J-beams are over rated. if you bend a beam or a radius arm you have to replace the entire setup instead of just the part, a set of longer one ton beams and extended radius arms is all you need.
 

Ryan B

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exactly what I was thinking. hmm Maybe instead of building radius arm's I'll jump right into a J-beam setup. That would give a larger area for tabs for the coilovers and future bypasses.

ryan don't do j beams... I'll send you some pics of me cutting off my bent driver side radius arm on my bronco. i cut off both radius arms off and now they are bolt on haha.
 

1971Ford

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ok, maybe I'll stick with beams and radius arms. I think for now I am going to just make new radius arms with the 1.5" DOM i'm ordering with some ruff stuff heims, then when I have time I'll probably recruit Haycock and get some nice plated, tube beams going.

Today I brought it out of the sideyard and got a little work done

-Removed hood/hinges
-Removed grill, upper valance, fiberglass fenders, inner fenders, core support, and radiator (whole front clip)
-Dad helped pull the engine and transmission out
-Then I had the joyous fun of grinding out every spot weld on the hood and once that was complete I seperated the hood layers and now the end result is a poor man's fiberglass hood! The new outer layer looks totally original and weighs the same as a fiberglass hood. It will be on 4 hood pins. Rear hood pins will be on hinges so the hood can hinge or pull off easy. I'll have a little structural piece so the hood doesnt fold over when opened with the hinges.
-gutted the interior
-ordered 3 sticks of 1.75" .120 DOM and I think I'm going to order another stick of 2" DOM for cage work and a stick of 1.5" DOM for radius arms.











Time to start cleaning up the firewall and chassis. Were setting up my brothers new JD2 tubing bender and we just got the new lincoln welder wired to the house. DOM tubing is on its way. I have 2 weeks of no school. Prepare for lots of updates, If im not at the welding shop I'll be working on the truck non stop.
 

1971Ford

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Thanks. 1.75? Sounds good to me.

I have pressure washed the frame , cleaned and painted the firewall, and sprayed some flat black on the frame to make it look a little nicer. Also have about 10/12 of the frame rivets ground off that are holding the coil buckets on, so that's almost off.

I got 16" 600lb eibach main springs for the coilovers in the mail today. Still looking for uppers. I might sell the 600 pounders for something lighter since I will probably mount the coilover closer to the wheel than expected, however I still am considering a j-beam setup. It's hard to mount a coilover and bypass without j-beams, and I do plan on running a bypass next year.

Picking up my boss's plasma cutter tomorrow morning and i'm cutting the whole bed out and i'll be getting the bedsides ready to be hung off the bedcage. Also have a plan for a new spare tire mounting setup. I wanted to do stand ups again, with the tires standing between the bedcage and bedsides, to fill in the gap that will be there since im cutting the bed out. But only way i would do it like this is if i could sink the spares into the "floor" a good 8" but the shackles are right there.
I've got a good lay down idea brewing in my head, with a new rear bumper/tire carrier.

Tubing should be here tomorrow then I can build the front of the engine cage and start hanging the grill.
 
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