14YO's 1971 F-250 LWB build

1971ford'sdad

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I told him it would be okay if his truck stays in the garage for a couple of months while he works on it, his mom can just park in the driveway. I am probably going to pay dearly for that.
 

9Iron

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I told him it would be okay if his truck stays in the garage for a couple of months while he works on it, his mom can just park in the driveway. I am probably going to pay dearly for that.
Yes you will...but its worth it right? :)
They are have a blast with this project!
Just wait until they talk you into doing the 24hr Enduro,
now that will be fun...
 

1971Ford

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I think the only truck of mine going to the 24hr enduro will be the '69 4x4 haha
If Rescue Racing is in for sure (not decided yet) then I'll be with them the whole time but if not I"ll probably camp out at a nasty spot and pull people out with the truck.

we are SO there for the 500 though haha.
 

1971Ford

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Finally touched the truck since being back in school off winter break. Won't be working on it this weekend at all (but i will be picking up some heavy goodies!) so I tried to get a little done today after school since i have no work today.

new window /\. This time out of 1.5" tube, and it goes through the defroster vents and hits the hidden dash tube right by the inner engine cage connections.
From this intersection there will be tubes going to the frame too.
And don't use cardboard to guard tine windshield of splatter because the cardboard likes to erupt into flames, letting you show off your skillz of how fast you can dance around in an empty cab trying to get the cardboard out.


Looks way more sicky gnar.

Then pulled the radius arms and stripped the beams down.


Picked up this steering setup from Rick massie of rescue racing, he donated it to the build but unfortunately i won't be able to use it. Mounting holes are on the wrong side.


Decided to use the original Ford (Saginaw) steering box. Moving it to the front of the frame, as shown here. Swapped the pitman arm around so when you turn the wheel right it turns right too, so it can be used for crossover steering.
Ditching the stock column and just going to run a shaft from PS box to swivel to steering wheel through heim.


 

Steven_Tolbert

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I told him it would be okay if his truck stays in the garage for a couple of months while he works on it, his mom can just park in the driveway. I am probably going to pay dearly for that.
Hey alright Dad that is awesome, when will women understand that the garage is not for parking but instead for creating masterpieces and a libary of memories. The truck is looking good. On a side note you should be very proud of your son, many kids his age don't work, don't go to school and they make use of their time by doing drugs. I am sure that I speak for everyone that has followed this thread when I say that he is going to go far in this sport and some day he may even end up being well know and respected in our community.
 

1971Ford

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just got back from San Diego. Here's a picture because everyone likes those.



Also, I bought a set of j-beams. 1" king pin, plated whole length of beam, bent to where I need it, caster angle set, uni-ball pivot on beam and radius arm, clean gusset plate area for me to put my tabs on.
my track width is going to be something like 5" over total.
 

JEFFRPM

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Hey alright Dad that is awesome, when will women understand that the garage is not for parking but instead for creating masterpieces and a libary of memories. The truck is looking good. On a side note you should be very proud of your son, many kids his age don't work, don't go to school and they make use of their time by doing drugs. I am sure that I speak for everyone that has followed this thread when I say that he is going to go far in this sport and some day he may even end up being well know and respected in our community.

Could not agree more I took over my parents garage at 13 while racing bikes in the desert they never got it back until i bought my first house at the age of 23 [a shop 6000sf on 5 acres with a double wide trailer so sleep in] made a ton of money kept my nose clean while all my "friends" went down the toilet from drugs having kids etc. sold the place to a developer for a fortune. All i can say is 71 ford I'm very proud of what your doing wit your life and most people will never get it. BTW how old are you now?
 

1971Ford

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Thanks Jeff and Matt,

I just turned 17. It's been a while since I started this beast.
Anyways break time is over, mocking up the J-beams!
 

JEFFRPM

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Welcome to the addiction just be careful IT WILL CONSUME YOU just remember your freinds and family were their during the "Quest" and yes they still love you [but don't understand you] so be safe have a good time and remember the days working in mom's garage when you become the next TT driver.
 

1971Ford

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Welcome to the addiction just be careful IT WILL CONSUME YOU just remember your freinds and family were their during the "Quest" and yes they still love you [but don't understand you] so be safe have a good time and remember the days working in mom's garage when you become the next TT driver.
I think it already has consumed me!


were you at Barstow Saturday?
I wish! But no. The truck is still torn apart.
I was in San diego though!!

New vs. old





THe solo swing set we are borrowing to look at the geometry but my swing set is going to be totally different. It will be pivoting from the inside of the frame most likely.



Finding out exactly where the mounts need to be will be fun..


Problem #1 is that on the passenger side the j-beam can't bump out 1/2" below the frame rail like how i was planning on bumping it. I am probably just going to trim those plates down on the i-beam pivots and plate the gap closed to give it strength, so i can still bump the truck to just about hitting frame.


Problem #2 is that I had to pop the misalignment spacers out because they were way too wide. I'll have to get new spacers that arn't as thick. But even then the uni-ball cup is way too wide for the beam pivots. The j-beams can't fully droop before the uniball cup binds with the pivot walls. I'm thinking i will just cut the sides of the cup down a little, but haven't looked at it yet.


Not exactly where the shocks will be but close. just seeing where everything is going to fit



Pulled the lights and skid plate, because the bumper is next to meet the sawzall
All the skid plate tubes are going byebye because the truck will need a new skid for swinger steering.
While i'm at it i might as well make a new bumper
 

PDANK Racing

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I would like to give this kid huge amounts of respect. Awesome work you have done so far. Wish I had my head on this straight when I was 17.

Some tips I hope will help: When redoing your skidplate, block off as much as you possibly can, you'll save a couple radiators, or if your class rules allow, move radiator to the bed. Our first season, we went through a radiator about every race from rocks bouncing off the fan and such. We also use some chicken wire in front of the radiator to help stop debris, use 3/8".

When testing, setup the truck like your heading for a race. Put anything and everything on that will be there when you are racing. You'll avoid any surprises that could have been avoided.

DOUBLECHECK EVERYTHING- Before races, after races, bored at home. Make a checklist, it helps. I wasted a ton of money and time on the last truck we built because of a brand new part that was faulty. We checked everything else, 10x, but dnf'ed on a bunch of races because we never checked the new part. Parts are made by humans, humans are idiots, I am an idiot for not checking that part, lesson learned.

*******THREADLOCKER for loose bolts********

Find ways to use your talents to make extra cash. Fix other kids cars at school for $20 an hour, Restore a dirtbike and sell it, whatever you enjoy doin that won't feel like work. Makes it easier when you gotta drop a lot of cash, plus uncle sam can't get his grubby little fingers on it.

And Finally, Use the tracks around you as much as possible for testing. The more seat time you get, the more in tune with your truck you will become. Out here the only tracks we have for testing are cornfields, or once a season that our series sets up a track day. Beat it up too, don't be a **
¡Ay, caramba!****
¡Ay, caramba!****
¡Ay, caramba!****
¡Ay, caramba!****
¡Ay, caramba!**. You do yourself a favor every time you break something when testing(unless its by doing something stupid), because you won't have to deal with it breaking at a race. You will have enough problems that you can't avoid, so do you best to minimize the ones you can.

Props to Ryan, his dad, and everyone else that has helped him in some way. This is how offroad racing will become one of the top motorsports in the world.
 

1971Ford

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Thanks! I do plan on getting the skid plate to where it will protect my steering while i land my mega hucks and push boulders out of the way :) When I tested the truck for the last 2 races I had it race-ready as we tested, it could definitely show some problems that you wouldn't see without race gear!
Luckily we have the prairie city short course track 15 minutes from my house so i will be testing and getting seat time in the "new" truck A LOT once it is back together. I want to be as ready as i can be for the next race.

I had a ratchet strap holding the j-beam up at ride height. Tried to slowly lower it and it released all the weight of the j-beam, allowing it to freely pivot down to the ground 2 feet below. Onto my toe. It is now a bloody colorful mess of pain.

working on the truck sucks while you're in pain but the desire to hit the dirt again over powers it.

Worked all day to get just the radius arm mounts positioned and started. At least that is out of the way. It takes so long, having to get the pivot in just the right spot.

First i established ride height which is 5 degrees on the kingpin but the knuckle takes awawy 5 degrees so I have 0 deg. camber at ride height.
Caster is set at 10deg. ride height.
Bump travel at ride height is 7 1/8" from frame to beam so i'm guessing 10" at the wheel of bump travel. leaving probably 9 or 10" of down travel.

plate is 3/16 and holes are punched for 3/4 grade 8 bolt




Bump. Justtt enough radius arm to frame clearance. Less shaft will show when the shock is mounted in tabs.


Drooop


The j-beams bind up, but an inch after full droop. It's the uniball cup on the beam that is binding. I'll grind an 1/8 out of where it is hitting on the cup and it will have more room


Ride height
 

1971Ford

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Yeah I had those shock mounts laying around the garage and thought damn... this is perfect! Very light weight.


The truck should be sitting on the coilovers very soon. I got a brass kingpin punch so i can swap knuckles/spindles onto these j-beams for now so i can roll the truck.

Problem is that I basically have two options, either running my original spindles, but swap sides, and have front steer, 8 lug, everything the same. But ackerman angle will be off.
Or I find a set of van spindles with front steer and ahve correct ackerman but I have no idea if the spindles are the same so I might not be able to put my 8 lug gear onto the front steer spindles.

Once the j-beams/shock mounting is done and I start steering I think I'm going to throw the truck on a trailer and find someone who knows a little more than me just to make sure i get everything right the first time with the steering.
 

Wild bill

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Keep up the good work. If you remember many moons ago, you posted a wish list of parts needed to complete your project. I bet if you re-post a current list, you may be suprised what people like me would be willing to donate to get you racing.
 

movindirt

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If you are running the coil over off the radius arm then plate the seam @ top radius to beam. If it were me I would make a plate that ran back under the CO mount. Cool build! Keep up the great work.
 
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