14YO's 1971 F-250 LWB build

1971Ford

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Yep I remember and I'm running/will be running almost everything you donated. That was a big help.

As of now I really don't need much, mostly just fabrication and big stuff from here on.
A few smaller things i can think of would be
Front steer 1" kingpin van knuckles
2.0 bump cans
limit straps
decent rear view mirror
braided brake lines
hood pins
dzus fasteners
heims (small heim for steering shaft, 7/8 heims for crossover steering)
reservoir mounts
air filter pre-filter
random fab parts like tabs, bushing sleeves, misalignment spacers, etc.
second amber
spark plug wires
turn signal thingy

The big things we need in case anyone is selling theirs would be xl/xxl legal helmets, race radio (dad seems to really want one), any deaver pack for cheap that i can pull most the springs from, hydro bumps for the rear
 

1971Ford

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I'm not 100% sure yet so I left the length out, I'll know soon though! I just know the rears won't work anymore because the rear will have more travel as soon as i move the hangers, and I need some for the front as well, I need to measure.

Today I didn't want to get dirty, just not in the mood with my foot. So I took a break from front suspension and mocked up the whole front clip and I am now working on mounting that.
Hood will have hinges that have pins in the pivot so the hood can be pulled off quickly or hinged up if i am by myself and autofab hood pins on the front.
Fenders use the stock 2 cab bolts and grill bolts. Fenders can still be removed in less than 5 minutes for testing or whatever. Grill will be hung off a 1" tube with tabs and a few bolts.

I love all the space in there to work on stuff, and you can see how much lighter the front end is now without the inner fenders, core support and second hood layer. although the engine cage tubing added some weight back.


 

Jester

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Hey man! I just wanted to commend you on all the hard work and not you mention you are rockin a FORD! lol I'm kind of in a similar situation with my truck slow and go, but some day I will be ready to race! I'm actually working on finishing up my home made beams so hopefully the truck will be back on all fours in a couple months! If i would have been thinkin ahead i probably would have done the same as you and gone piece by piece so that i could still race, but i was a little too anxious and ended up ripping everything apart! Keep up the good work man! Hope the Foot feels better so you can get back to the good stuff! jajaja
 

PDANK Racing

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:DBuilding trucks is a good teacher about steel toes and safety glasses...
 

1971Ford

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Thanks Jester!
PDANK Racing, yeah, i'd love some steel toes!

Fab'd the upper/lower coilover mounts on each side and dad slapped the spindles/discs on for now.

20.5" wheel travel at KING PIN. 10.25 up and 10.25 down. Just happened to split exactly in the middle. So the numbers will be even bigger at the hub.
I'm satisfied!
I'll probably strap the droop a bit more than needed though just because it's almost too much. Camber starts getting nasty but not too bad. Or should i just strap it the 1/2" before shock maxes out?
Then set it down on its new front end for the first time. Had to go to work 10 minutes after putting the wheels on so only had time to droop it out for fun. I'll set ride height and bump it tomorrow.





Now i can roll the dang thing out and clean the garage.
 

1971Ford

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Thanks!

I was thinking they could use some beefage. They're 3/16 tabs welded both sides but how should i make them even stronger?
 

1971Ford

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hmm is there a way i could reinforce the tabs i have welded on or should I grind them off and start over on the lower tabs?
 

BRINGTHERUCKUS

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The way you have the truck drooped out, its going to put a large amount of stress on the lower mounts, if there is anyway to spread the load down towards the front of the beam it would be a big help. the two load paths are conflicting if that makes any sense
 

Jester

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DANG!!! that looks good man! are you gonna eventually try to run some kind of cross over steering? I second Matt D on beefing up those lower mounts too, make 'em bullet proof!!!
 

1971Ford

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Hmm I"ll re-do it.

Mr. Ruckus i don't quite follow. I'm having ahard time visualizing the load path on them. I can't move the lower shock end at all but i can do the tabs any way i want as long as the shock holes are at the same spot.

sexy beast



Official non-strapped and FULL bump travel number is 22" at hub.

Full droop




Probably going to strap it short just because that extra travel doesn't do anything but look super sicky and add camber.
Probably strap it here


This is FULL bump, as in if the hydro bump's tip were to get destroyed and it were to touch frame. so normal full bump is just a tad (probably 2/3" ) lower.





Now to finish the engine cage and a bunch of other little things up front and time for steering.
Then i can finally move on to the interior.... then the back half of the truck
 

1971Ford

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Not enough.
I'm re-doing the rear so i don't know yet but it won't be able to keep up with the front at all which will be lame but I'll still be going twice the speed as last season.
I am cutting the wheel base down as long as i have time (leaving back half of truck for last) and i'll be getting deavers at leduc to either use most of the leaves under my 64" chevy packs or the whole deavers depending on what packs i find for cheap.

Before I had I think 15" travel in the rear and that's because i set it up for the shorter fox's. The shackle hit hanger when i put the 2.5 16's on. It should have about 17-18" rear travel.
 

BRINGTHERUCKUS

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DSCF3343.jpg

as the wheel comes up the shock will push out towards the wheel, if you made plates that came down like the ones in red it will spread that force out.
 

atomicjoe23

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You could gusset them with tabs coming off of the sides to get more surface and/or you could box in the back or front of the tabs.
 

1971Ford

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i was thinking about the gusseting off the sides, and adding the plates that Ruckus shows.
I'll either be doing this or making new tabs all together, not sure yet.
 
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