On Topic 1995 Bronco: The Nuclear Unicorn

Andy Jones

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Here's some pictures of my build. 1995 Ford Bronco exploration/prerunner build.
































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Chubs

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Sooo nice! I wish my Bronco was as far along! I went w the same proportioning valve, but Im ditching the brake booster & going with Hydroboost...
 

Andy Jones

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Sooo nice! I wish my Bronco was as far along! I went w the same proportioning valve, but Im ditching the brake booster & going with Hydroboost...
I wanted to do the same !
I'm gonna run the brake booster for a little while, with the dual residual valves for front and rear. See how I like it for a bit.


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toddz

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Looks great! I assume you ditched the ABS?

Thanks,
Todd Z.
 

Andy Jones

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Started some Brake Line plumbing from the Wilwood P-Valve to the rear bulkhead. -3 AN conversion .



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Chubs

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Whats the deal w the pressure valve? & where do I find the black flex brakeline?
 

Andy Jones

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Whats the deal w the pressure valve? & where do I find the black flex brakeline?
Bought the Black -3 lines from ORW. The Proportioning valve controls front and rear brake bias.


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Chris_Wilson

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The blue thing is a residual valve and is designed to keep 2psi on the pads after you release the brakes, this is to prevent the pads from walking away from the rotor because of rotor warpage or because of vibration. Without this, sometimes you pads walk away and you get a long pedal (no brakes) the first part of the first pedal application. The 2psi model is for disk brakes, they also make one for drum brakes which I think is 8psi. This is only needed when running aftermarket (racing) master cylinders. OEM master cylinders typically have a residual valve built into the master cylinder for the exact same reasons. A proportioning valve is a different device and typically has an adjustment knob on it (aftermarket ones). These are only uses/needed with you have a single master cylinder for all 4 brakes and many OEM applications use non-adjustable proportioning valves. Most race setups use dual master cylinders, one for front one for rear and in this case you would not use a proportioning valve but instead change the MC piston diameter to match your caliper then use a mechanical balance bar to bias front/rear. And of course you would still use the residual valve, one on each MC.
 

Andy Jones

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The blue thing is a residual valve and is designed to keep 2psi on the pads after you release the brakes, this is to prevent the pads from walking away from the rotor because of rotor warpage or because of vibration. Without this, sometimes you pads walk away and you get a long pedal (no brakes) the first part of the first pedal application. The 2psi model is for disk brakes, they also make one for drum brakes which I think is 8psi. This is only needed when running aftermarket (racing) master cylinders. OEM master cylinders typically have a residual valve built into the master cylinder for the exact same reasons. A proportioning valve is a different device and typically has an adjustment knob on it (aftermarket ones). These are only uses/needed with you have a single master cylinder for all 4 brakes and many OEM applications use non-adjustable proportioning valves. Most race setups use dual master cylinders, one for front one for rear and in this case you would not use a proportioning valve but instead change the MC piston diameter to match your caliper then use a mechanical balance bar to bias front/rear. And of course you would still use the residual valve, one on each MC.
I'm running a stock Master Cylinder with A Wilwood dual Proportioning valve, and two, 2lb residual valves for front and rear Wilwood Calipers . Works awesome on these heavy pigs .


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Scott_AZ

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Stupid question... What's the blue stuff around the proportioning vale fitting threads?
 

RanchoPacific Motorsports

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How do the rear shackles work when the leaf springs compress and get longer because they straighten out.
It seams that after the shackle hit the frame then the leafs will warp or crack?
I have not seen a setup like this before
 

Andy Jones

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How do the rear shackles work when the leaf springs compress and get longer because they straighten out.
It seams that after the shackle hit the frame then the leafs will warp or crack?
I have not seen a setup like this before
The Shackle leans backwards. Check out Giant Motorsports Link killer set up.
64" spring under kit.


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RanchoPacific Motorsports

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I looked at the Photo closer and realized that the shackle is offset of the frame.
I thought you had a new design to get extra droop.
 

Andy Jones

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IMG_3401.JPG

IMG_3370.JPG

Installed a Solo Motorsports cage. Build shock mounts now.


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toddz

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Looks awesome! Brackets available for those calipers?

Todd Z.
 
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