2003 Long Travel Tacoma Double Cab

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Made progress by taking out the entire interior. Bought some new PRP seats from Envy Motorsports which I will hopefully be mounting tomorrow. Removed the old stock carpet, it's disgusting and the padding has tons of rust on it so it went in the trash. I bought Second Skin sound deader which I began to lay down on the back wall and rear floor. Tomorrow I'll try to cover the rest of the floor, I covered some holes and re-sealed the seams of the new rear floor so I want that all to dry first.




Glamour shot.


Bought myself a new tool. Been trying to use a Crapsman impact for years which is less than worthless.
 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Driveshaft from Drivelines Inc. Great company to do business with, and they have a lot of cool pics of off road rigs on the walls.

 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Got the truck running finally! Took one step forward but like 6 steps back in the process. Broke off one of the studs for the fuel pump power, so I had to go buy a new one. Ordered the one I broke off Amazon so I have a replacement coming in a few days time for a spare now. I also removed the rear wire harness off the truck and got rid of all of the wires and plugs which went to the nonexistant EVAP equipment. I wrapped the wires in expandable loom and swapped the massive old plug for an 8 pin Deutsch connector. One of these days I really need to remove the body harness and remove the rest of the wires I don't need. This bit was easy enough it gave me the confidence to tackle a bigger project.

Realized also why my battery used to always go flat when the truck would sit: There's no positive cable from the alternator to the battery! I bought the truck "wired" and running so I never noticed it before. Ordered 0 gauge black and red cable, plus a 150 amp breaker to get more power.

Click for boring video.
 

Tom_Willis

Well-Known Member
Impressive build. I have an '01 (extra cab) 2wd that originally came with the TRD stuff. It now has Deaver's, a junkyard Ford 9" and King 2.5's with 2.0 bumpstops out back. I just picked up RuffStuff's 48" trailing arms, (which look very similar to yours), and I'm planning on doing the 4-link conversion later this year using their parts. Can you tell how much more uptravel you gained from the backhalf? I see your double cab's length dictated the size and shock placement on the trailing arms, and you redesigned the sheetmetal floor to clear the upper links. I'm trying to either keep the frame intact or notch it; I don't want to commit to a complete back half just yet. Thanks.
 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Impressive build. I have an '01 (extra cab) 2wd that originally came with the TRD stuff. It now has Deaver's, a junkyard Ford 9" and King 2.5's with 2.0 bumpstops out back. I just picked up RuffStuff's 48" trailing arms, (which look very similar to yours), and I'm planning on doing the 4-link conversion later this year using their parts. Can you tell how much more uptravel you gained from the backhalf? I see your double cab's length dictated the size and shock placement on the trailing arms, and you redesigned the sheetmetal floor to clear the upper links. I'm trying to either keep the frame intact or notch it; I don't want to commit to a complete back half just yet. Thanks.
I honestly have no idea. When I initially tore the truck down, I was on a bit of a tight schedule so me and the first builder just thrashed to tear the truck down and cut it up. I can only estimate that it bumps a couple of inches higher than stock.
 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Slowly but surely its getting there.

I finished wiring the batteries and ran a positive wire from the alternator through a 150 amp breaker to charge both batteries. I ran cable to hook up both of the batteries and found a spot to mount my battery switch that'll be easy to get to for now. I do not like the concept of a big power cable running through my cab, so all of it is outside the cab.



Next I moved on to mounting the brake and shifter components. I ran new brake line from my master cylinder to a residual pressure valve, into my CNC cutting brake, a proportioning valve, and a line lock. I removed the stock shifter and floor plate, and cut a solid plate to cover the hole where the stock shifter used to be. I used that plate to mount my cutting brake, its in a spot which is convenient and easy to reach from the steering wheel. The Winters shifter is stuffed down between the seats. I ordered a longer cable, the included 5ft cable is 2 feet too short.



All that's left is installing the new cable and bleeding the brakes. I still need to find the transmission control relay wires I need to hook up my RADesigns shifter to, but that's not a priority.
 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
drove her around the block for the first time. Need to bleed the brakes some more, I thought they were good to go but there must be air hiding somewhere still. I've heard the Wilwood calipers can be a pain to bleed sometimes.

 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Remounted my dash so my stock gauges fit. Ordered a cheap tablet and bluetooth OBDII dongle to use for some more accurate gauges.

 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Made my own headliner. Got some 2" thick foam from Joanns fabric store and cut them to fit in the roll cage. Then wrapped the pieces with black headliner material. They're only held in via friction currently. Albeit not the greatest job, I did it myself and it's 100% better than no headliner in my opinion. I put sound deadener on the roof sheet metal as well, which is a big improvement. The interior side of the headliner stays cool to the touch even in this recent 100* weather in SoCal.



I've been dealing with a leak from the Trail Gear hub caps that I originally had for my rear hubs. After trying different o-rings, RTV, and trans-x to make the o-rings swell, I gave up. I found that Currie Enterprises offer the same style hub, and use a hub cap with a much more robust o-ring seal. The Currie cap seals to the outer hub face as opposed to the Trail Gear cap which seals inside the hub body. The Currie set up also includes new drive slugs that are threaded so that you actually bolt the hub caps on and torque them down to create a tight seal instead of using a little snap ring on the Trail Gear units. Thanks to the guys at SDHQ, I had the new caps, drive slugs, and hardware on my doorstep within 24 hours.


Old Trail Gear cap with their tiny o-ring seal vs the new Currie hub cap and large o-ring.


Also thanks to Brennan at Baja Designs, I finally have a RTL-S that I've been bugging him about since the Offroad Expo last September. I liked their original design, but hounded them about building one that has the amber lights separate from the brake lights. They delivered, and I finally bought one at their 25th anniversary the other weekend.
 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Advanced/Glassworks bedsides. Need new tail lights and to paint the mounts still. Ran out of daylight.
 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Got a center console made by a local guy, DirtSkum on Instagram. He also mounted a new dash board since I chewed up the first one attempting to put it in, and some filler plates for the airbag and around the steering wheel. I always like giving money to the guys working out of their garage. The 4x4 shifter was extended and has a little cover plate that you remove to shift to 4 Low if needed.

 

Dezertpilot

Well-Known Member
Looks great! My favorite new color, my 2018 Tundra is basically the same color. Is it paint or a wrap?
 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
Looks good Mac!
Thanks Morf! Totally transformed the look.

Looks great! My favorite new color, my 2018 Tundra is basically the same color. Is it paint or a wrap?
Yeah I love the cement color of the TRD Pro but hate the price tag. This is a bit darker grey and much friendlier on the wallet. Its a wrap.

You gotta know I like that color... looks great!
Thank you, sir! Means a lot from you.
 

doyouquaxu

Well-Known Member
About a month ago I finally installed my Switch Pros 8100 I bought through Camburg back in May of 2016. It was wired correctly, but I couldn't program the switches via the switch panel, or get the app to sync to the device. After several emails back and forth with Switch Pros customer service I got a phone call from them. They offered a full replacement and upgrade to the 9100 unit since there was no other trouble shooting I would be able to do myself. Pretty stand up group of people at this company. Got the new device and installed it several days later. Now it works like it should and I have more respect for a company still offering a 100% made in USA product.

 

fb503

Member
I hope a thread necro like this isn't frowned upon but I am new here and I just wanted to tell you that you have a beautiful truck... I absolutely love it! How's she treating you?
 
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