22r motors

BIG_FAT_LOSER

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To all yota-heads:

I am planing on getting a junk yard 22r long block to rebiuld for my truck. The only parts I will be transfering over will be the intake and exhaust manifolds plus related accessories. The question I have is: Will I have smog / mechanical compatibility problems if I use an earlier year motor, I have an 84" (not likely the will find out?) Also will a 22re head work on a carburated intake and exhaust manifolds.


<font color=red>PAT KAPKO</font color=red>
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farmboy

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yes the exhaust and intake will work and a 22re head is the same as a 22r, but here are some other things to take into consideration, i'm sure you know that 85 and on went to a single row timing chain and they make kits to adapt a double on, but there are some differences on the 84 models. any motor made before during or before the sixth month of 84 is exactly the same as 83 and prior, the easiest way to tell is the old ones have domed pistons. after the sixth month of 84, they kept the double row timing chain but they changed to flat top pistons and a head that is either taller or shorter ( i can't remeber) and the timing chain cover is also taller or shorter. then 85 went to same motor but single row timing chain. so if you go mixing and matching, make sure you get compatable parts. if you get all late model parts, get a adapter kit to run the double row because i have seen the single rows break and they'll wear out much quicker. i think LC enginering and DOA both carry it. cause thats not something you want to break when pulling 8 grand down mitomi. i think, but don't quote me, that all alternantor/power steering/smog brakets are the same. or just register in nevada, and get a 22r block with a 20r head with side drifts, or throw in a twin turbo, twin cam, 24 valve straight six out of a supra with a chip, aftermarket turbos, and an intercooler and get 500 hp for about 2 grand. or..... i could go on forever. good luck

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BIG_FAT_LOSER

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I have spoken to both LC and DOA, but the cost of upgrading the single row I have (late 84) plus rebuild (while it is apart anyway) is considerably more than rebuilding an 83 or older. So I will be pulling an older 2 row 22r.

What is the benifit of a 20r head on a 22r block? And what if any mods are required?

Thanks for the info.

<font color=red>PAT KAPKO</font color=red>
<font color=yellow>Self appointed King of ghetto fab</font color=yellow>
 

farmboy

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going with a 20r head on a 22r block will up the compression from 8.5 to 9.5. i think it puts out about another 20 horsepower. it's a pretty common cheap yota trick. the exhaust manifold is exactly the same but you have to use the 20r intake. they make an adapter kit to put a stock 22r carb on a 20r intake which i think is like $20. i think you, because of smog reasons would have to do that, but the preferable would be a 32/36 weber carb. you can use a 20r head from a celica or a truck. i got one at pick n' pull for $50 that only needed valve stem seals. one thing to watch though, 78 and older and some 79's, had the stock full pump in the tank and did not have a spot on the head for it, but if your running a facet or something, it won't matter. also, i forgot to mention, you don't need to do anything to the head or block, they will bolt right together, BUT MAKE SURE YOU USE A HEAD GASKET FROM A 22R, and i can't stress that enough. any more questions, just ask.... good luck with whatever you decide.

the faster you go the smoother it is
 

Tyson

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SO I have a 94 22RE. Are you saying all I have to do is get a 20r head and put it on my truck (Then I'll need carb's right?) and it'll pump out 20 more ponies? If so then I'm doing it, any more advice?

Thanks

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partybarge_pilot

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Early 20r's and 22r's are open chamber and will DECREASE your comp ratio on a newer block. The chamber design on the newer heads is alot better. To bad the intake ports suck azz. The intakes on 20r's are round and straight. Can be opened up to 1.25 dia. without problems, some casting's (older celica) can go 1.5. Be carefull of the artisian port..... Good comp with the 20r on 22r block requires domed pistons or weld up the combustion chamber and make it look like a 22r (better). LC can do it both ways. Give them a call.
 

partybarge_pilot

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early 22r blocks are .180 taller than the new blocks, cam chains and timing covers are shorter on new motors 6/84 and up. All heads enterchange. All cranks and rods are the same (20r's & 22r's). Going up 1 point in comp will give you ruffly 4% more power. Carb 22r = 105 HP X 1.04 = 109.2 for a whopping increase of 4.2 HP. The only incompatability with older blocks is they don't have the hole drilled out for the knock sensor. Easy to fix with a drill and tap. I have safely bored an old 22r to .090 over with no overheating problems. The older motors also have full oil grooves on the main bearing halves. If you want to do a stroker motor, go for the tall block. the rod ratio is already pretty poor on a stocker.
 

farmboy

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yota 602, by no means would i ever give up the EFI, it's way more efficent and i've never heard of it having any problems, even after endless miles of offroading.

the faster you go the smoother it is
 

WeldnFab

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I've got a 20r head ported and polished for sale!!! I'll let it go for 100 bucks if anyone is interested, it's just sitting in my garage. just an FYI
 

Tyson

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Actually I am trying to build this for MDR's 1400 class. and I'm only going for power (its about time to ditch the AFM I hate that thing, I myself have gone through 4 of them in this truck!!) so if I can get some extra power out of side drifts and a 20r head by all means I'm on it.

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cleartoy

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I have side drafts for sale. They are on 22 R manifolds though.

Dual Weber 40MM less than a year of use, excellent. $700.

85 Toyota xtracab 4x4(for sale)
94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

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farmboy

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Yota 602, Jdfab has that exact setup on his race truck. go to his website www.jdfab.com, and look at the specs of his truck in his for sale section. or ask him about it.

the faster you go the smoother it is
 

drtdevil93

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its 1500 for digital programmable injection with injectors, harness, everything you need from lc.
and thats the distributorless setup (4 coil packs). and tyson, it gets rid of the mass air sensor, which frees up a lot of power by itself.

erik
 
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