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4wd beams

I need to install my new beams on my bronco.. Do the ball joints just push in?? Are they pressed in?? How much work is it to take my spindles, hubs off?? I have never did this before and need any advice I can get, I will be putting longer radius arms on at the same time, what tools will I need to buy? Thanks in advance..


Ok... What tools do ya have?

You'll need a lug wrench for the wheels... the brake calipers remove with basic hand tools... and a hammer.

To remove the hubs and spindle you'll need a spindle nut socket - you can either buy one or rent/borrow one from a parts store like Autozone... Or if you ask nice you can borrow mine. :)

The spindle comes off only after all the guts are removed... the spindle itself can be removed after 6 nuts are pulled. All of that stuff is easy and if you've got the tools handy can be done in 15 minutes easy if you know what you are doing.

The radius arms you have probably have new mounts... taking the old mounts off requires the removal of those damn rivets. Either drill them out, grind them flush, or use an air chisel to cut em' off.

I forget what size the rearward radius arm nut is, I think it's 1" - don't quote me on that. Same socket should pull the bolt from both the top and bottom of the beam that mounts the radius arm, including the lower coilspring retaining washer/cup.

Do ya need a hand? Buy me a 6-pack and I'm there.

I will buy you a case if you could help me. I have a good amount of tools now and could buy whatever else I might need.. What about balljoints.. Do the push in, press in, bolt in? Should I buy new ones, the ones on the bronco now are only a couple of months old. Thanks Jeff...


Yep, the ball-joints press in and out. You can rent the press from Autozone for $100 bucks I think... It's basically just a threaded press system that includes different cups. The $100 bucks is basically a security deposit, they refund it when you take it back undamaged. You'll need a pickle-fork to separate them. A torque wrench that goes up to 180lbs minimum to re-torque the spindle nuts. And that socket needs to be an 1-1/8th I think... not 1" And you'll also need a big ol' honkin 1-5/16" for the upper ball joint nut. A big C-clamp is handy to compress the brake piston to ease removal.

I'm sure I could come up with a step by step with all the tools and tricks required. I've got a mid-term on Thursday that I'm studying for tomorrow. When did you plan on starting the project?



Krittro Campbell
I'll bring you my grinder tomorrow, it pretty heavy duty...you'll need it. Drilling those rivets out is like watching grass grow and the air chisel almost made me deaf. The ball joint deal is up to you, but they will need to be pressed out. This link might give you a little idea of the front end. Its an older version, but same idea.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://bronco2mudder.com/balljoints.htm>http://bronco2mudder.com/balljoints.htm</A>

When you doing this? I am always game to drink beer and wrench...the only way to go.


If you wanted a steak you shouldn't have went to McDonald's!


Well-Known Member
you'll need a floor jack and a set of jackstands as well. 2 floor jacks would be even better( to lower that heavy diff)
pressing the balljoints in/out can be done with the hand press. it looks like a giant C-clamp. Autozone(like someone stated) has them for rent. Depending on mileage of your old ones you may want to get some new ones with zerk (grease) fittings in them?
You'll need to pull the guts from your old front end as well I think(R&P/axles)

You havent posted any pics of the broncos new seats or anything? Maybe when your done with the front?
Are you doing shock mounts or anything at the same time or later?

good luck and be safe. A service manual wouldnt be a bad idea either.
Doug, project bronco is about to take off.. I have almost everything I need for it sitting on the floor in my garage... 3.0 King Coilovers for the front, Deaver rear Springs. King Rear shocks, new modified beams, autofab 2 link kit. The beards are mounted and looking nice, I got the new two peice motorola race radio, its mounted and bitchin. I pick up a new Sparco steering wheel for it today. The only thing I have left to buy are rims and radius arms, glassworks fenders. The bronco will go in the shop to get built as soon as I mount the new beams. Hopefully next weekend. ...Hows the explorer coming?


Well-Known Member
thats great about your Bronco. It will be nice to see when its all finished.
All projects on my end are on hold until I sell a car.
no $$ dinero for anything. Its gonna be a thin Xmas if I can't sell one of the vehicles.
NOTHING is selling in SD right now (even with 0% financing, the Ford guys are all mulling about outside the dealer by my house!)
I picked a piss poor time to try and sell a vehicle. MY BAD


Well-Known Member
Houses are selling , they just aren't getting over what they are worth and are on the market longer( at least in N. San Diego) thats great you sold it in a day.
I just picked up today a new Sparco steering wheel, and Sparco 5 point harnesses for Project Bronco. They make some really bitchin stuff.. I got a cool tour of the facility too..


- users no longer part of the rdc family -
John- I've always heard "cut and turn" when referring to modifying TTB's. Are the beams cut and turned or is just the bottom ball joint hole moved further out? Anyone care to elaborate? BTW who did your beams?Thanks. Richard


Krittro Campbell
It is actually "cut and turned" or flipped whichever diction you prefer. I think he got the beams from Camburg.


If you wanted a steak you shouldn't have went to McDonald's!
I have also heard cut and turned but have no idea what it means. I bought some stock arms and had Camburg move the lower balljoint out.. I did not extend them or trusset them.. That is last on my list..


Well-Known Member
Hay John, I can't remember if your bronco is 4x or not, but I have a ranger that I'm building that is 4x and was wondering if I could put f-150 I beams on (with them being wider than the stock ones I have now), reconnect my four wheel drive and make it work. Anybody know?



Well-Known Member
Ive heard that you have to change over the steering. It will probably end up costing more in the long run. Has anybody done this? Is it worth it?



Well-Known Member
Wow John, that thing should look like Jimmy Smiths Old Pre-runner Bronco when your done with it. The Ball joints are pressed in. They have a spline look to them ????


- users no longer part of the rdc family -
My understanding about what "cut-and-turned" means is that you take the stock beams, then cut them and reweld the lower half at an angle. I may understand that wrong - If you visit off-road.com look for an article about the Zimmerman's 1993 Explorer. They cut-and-turned their own beams. On the steering issue - I'm looking to swap a fullsize TTB into my '93 Explorer, can you guys tell me more about the steering work that must be done?

David - No one of consequence.


Well-Known Member
when i took my dana 35 to camburg to have modified all they did was extend the lower ball joint mount about an inch. I have heard that this varies from shop to shop....with the extended lower joint i found that i have more clearence than when compared to some of my friends rangers whos beams were modified by mcneil and autofab.


Well-Known Member

Are you on the stock TTB mounts or are you using drop down brackets? How high are you lifted over stock? Any pictures of what they did?

'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart