i dont know about 5-1600, but for 1600, savage said not to worry about it at the 500 and that he was gonna be measuring cars at contingency and then deciding on a maximum cv flange to flange measurement. this could make a lot of problems for microstub and bus stub axle users, i guess we need to stay tuned to see what will happen
The rule used to say 51" backing plate flange to backing plate flange. The new rule book gives you two measurements to deal with, wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. This is to address the aluminium drum hubs/centers people are using. I don't have a book here but the number is the same for 1600 cars. The second number is C. V. flange to C.V. flange. Eric is right about this one. That number hasn't been determined/disclosed yet. But I believe the idea is to negate the axle length advantage gained with microstubs. Unfortunately, the guys who built ther cars with bus stubs and drums years ago may get caught in the cross fire. ORW used to sell that as a kit, and many 5/1600 went that way. We'll have to wait and see what happens. Why do you ask?
We put the new Kartek arms and micros on our car before laughlin but we didn't not change (or rework if you will) the piviot points so we have been playing with that idea to properly dial the car in. We are also playing with the lower shock mount because we run a King 3inx12in triple bypass that is only use the last mabye 7in or 8in so we are in the bump zone of the shock ALOT. We want to get it to stroke full, and mabye put another rebound tube in.
You shouldn't need to move your pivit boxes if they are close to stock. I'm not familiar with Kartek's arms. But I am familiar with that axle length. You should be able to get close to 14" of wheel travel at the stub, with legal fender wells and stock pivits. The further back behind the stub axle centerline you can mount that shock, the better. Danny Ledezma does a great job of getting that shock back on the cars he builds.
Positive camber is not necessairly a bad thing. It relives C.V. angle. The important thing is where in your wheel travel you start to go positive. I feel on a 5/1600 you should be 0 at ride heigth. Unless you set up with a lot of droop (several inches) then you might have a little negative camber. Stock pivit box location achieves this very well. If your too positive at ride height then either your boxes are welded in wrong (too high) or your arms were built with a different geometry.
The amount of camber change that you get throughout your travel is determined by the offset between the pivit bolt and the springplate/torsion bar center. Again VW did a pretty good job of setting this up for us.