7.3ps help/parts

Yasonhealey

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Hello everyone so my 7.3 took a poop on me at a light yesterday I’ve tired a few things so it has fuel pressure and I replaced filter just cause I then pulled the icp to see if it would start, by bypassing hpop reading, didn’t work I then changed CPS sensor but to a China one still no change also the tach does move when I crank so I don’t think it’s CPS but also could be jiggling gauge cause voltage change I don’t have a scanner to show live data next I pulled the icp out and cranked it oil oozed our buy definitely didn’t seem like 500+ psi I don’t have a gauge or scanner to test it at the moment but I think my next things to do is replace the CPS for a motorcraft one and if that doesn’t work test HPOP to see if psi is what it should be and if it is at normal psi and still doesn’t start with the new CPS would that mean it’s my ipr most likely also if your near buena park and have CPS/IPR I would be interested in purchasing thanks any help would be appreciated sorry if this is in the wrong thread 1st post
 

Slippery P

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If the Tach moves when cranking the CPS is working. The IPR regulates the high pressure oil to the injectors, it’s in the back of the HPOP. Failed HPOP are often misdiagnosed when the true cause is the IPR, but being that a new HPOP usually comes with a new IPR, the problem is fixed when replacing the HPOP.

If you can get your hands on a scanner monitor the high pressure oil to the injectors while cranking.

The IPR has an O-ring on the snout that slides into the HPOP over time that O-ring deteriorates and allows oil to bypass causing low oil pressure supply to the injectors. This usually results in a crank no start situation when hot and the oil is thin, when cold and the oil is thick it will usually build just enough oil pressure to start. That being said IPRs do fail.
 
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Volkspower Racing

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Check or replace crank sensor. I have a 7.3 with over 500k on it and the 2 times it has died and wouldn’t start that was the problem, always have a couple and a 10 mm wrench on hand, and only use OEM, China ones don’t seem to work, at least for me!
 

Bro_Gill

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As was aaid above, Injector Pressure Control sensor will cause this, Easy fix, but for what the part is, you pay for it. Also, can be a pain if original part as the 'nut' to spin it off is under the sensor and is hard to get to if you don't have a 5/8" shorty wrench and don't want to remove the alternator. Pull the wire plug and if it is oily, the seal has failed and is saying low oil pressure to the injector pump to shut the engine off. If that's the case (usually this before hpop) and you have a new one ready, use some big channel locks to break it loose by the body and spin it out. The replacements have a larger nut that allows you to use a 1 1/8" deep socket to tighten it up.
 

Kc hull

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If your pickup has a tuner on the ecm, often times they are not installed correctly and will jiggle loose causing them to die and not start. I would start there
 

Slippery P

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Did the ipr and cleaned the fuel bowl seems to be fine I put the old motorcraft CPS back in just for good measure
FYI. The heating element in the fuel bowl is powered by the PCM power fuse. The solder will break and the heating element will short on the fuel bowl popping the fuse. If the truck ever dies and will not restart, and there is no check engine light prove out when turning on the key check here first. As long as the PCM is powered up the check engine light should always prove out with the key on.

Edit: This was how mid, late 90s OBS power strokes were. The above may have changed with the super duty body style 7.3L, you are asking me to reach way back in the brain bank.
 
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This old rz

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Good read, I have a 7.3 in an 03 extended cargo van.
Reasonably low mileage...
But I'm telling you it is not for the faint of heart working on it I've had three shops tell me they just refused to work on it, which is fine because the labor rates are horrible.
every time I go to work on it I seriouslly dread it ...lol
Feel like putting a gun in my mouth, or a noose around my neck .....or maybe both.
 

Slippery P

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Good read, I have a 7.3 in an 03 extended cargo van.
Reasonably low mileage...
But I'm telling you it is not for the faint of heart working on it I've had three shops tell me they just refused to work on it, which is fine because the labor rates are horrible.
every time I go to work on it I seriouslly dread it ...lol
Feel like putting a gun in my mouth, or a noose around my neck .....or maybe both.
Absolutely!
I used to repair and “bulletproof” 6.0L Econolines for a fleet, most of them had the utility box behind the cab.
Sucked balls! But if you just got down with it, excellent money!

That poop separates the men from the boys right quick.
 

partybarge_pilot

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I would way rather do a turbo and up pipes on a van. Stupid dutys have you stretched out like superman to reach all that crap. In a van, pull the dog house and sit in the passenger seat.
 

Brian1

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An invaluable resource to have for these 7.3s is a $20 OBD2 to Bluetooth adapter from Amazon and download the TorquePro App to your phone then you can monitor the pressures and duty cycle of the oil system. It is a great way to troubleshoot these engines without throwing parts at them. Also, as said above, always use the OEM sensors as the aftermarket ones just don't last and sometimes don't even work.

Sounds like the new IPR did the trick for you
 

coolerking

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I also have a 2003 7.3 van.
208k.
The biodiesel will destroy the orings on the entire fuel system, pulling the fuel bowl off to fix it is fun, you will need to order the kit from diesel orings.
The water pump is fun, the fan clutch? A real hoot, the alternator is easy, the frame mounted second battery is really cool too, oh, and the vans fuel tanks are famous for delamination of the silly coating they somehow talked themselves into. Throw it away and order a new bare metal one.
They are half the price of one injector, you will need 8 if that poop gets past the impossible fuel filter. Mount a vacuum side racor fuel filter/ separator between the tank and the stupid lift pump. But hey the up pipes and turbo are easy.
Ahh van life!
 

This old rz

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I also have a 2003 7.3 van.
208k.
The biodiesel will destroy the orings on the entire fuel system, pulling the fuel bowl off to fix it is fun, you will need to order the kit from diesel orings.
The water pump is fun, the fan clutch? A real hoot, the alternator is easy, the frame mounted second battery is really cool too, oh, and the vans fuel tanks are famous for delamination of the silly coating they somehow talked themselves into. Throw it away and order a new bare metal one.
They are half the price of one injector, you will need 8 if that poop gets past the impossible fuel filter. Mount a vacuum side racor fuel filter/ separator between the tank and the stupid lift pump. But hey the up pipes and turbo are easy.
Ahh van life!
Yes, I discovered I have a fuel bowl leak..tried the drain fix...to no avail.So the Van has been sitting for 4 months as I just don't have the will to try and work on it.
I tried to get in there but it's just impossible for me... You have to work blind and backwards.
I also have an oil leak or several that I just cannot locate. I know these 7.3s have 7 prominent locations that leak oil.
I am not even going to contemplate replacing the o-rings in the fuel bowl (I will absolutely buy a new fuel bowl) I've read too many reports of people doing the o-rings just to have them leak almost immediately again.
Once I finish my Toyota and get it back on the road which should be in the next month, I'm going to try my best to get into the van I have to do the work myself I can't afford to send it to a mechanic they all tell me it's $1,000 minimum ,a pop just to drive it into their shops.
I've even tried to get a couple of mobile mechanics up here but they want nothing to do with it as it's a van, same with the local diesel shop he actually looked at me and said "I ain't working on that M-Fing thing"...lol no poop! That's exactly what the man told me.
ONE THING I'VE LEARNED IS THESE DIESELS ARE SO OVERRATED.
MONEY-WISE THERE IS NO RATIONAL REASON TO PURCHASE ONE.
THE MAINTENANCE IS JUST UNBEARABLY NEVER ENDING AND LIST OF MODIFICATIONS REQUIRED SPANS PAGES.
There's a reason these '03 diesels are only worth two or three thousand bucks as ,one has to do all the modifications and upgrades ...it's just brutal for an average working guy.
I won't admit to how long it took me to do the water pump.... Let's just say there was a change of seasons
1.) I've already done the water pump that fkin sucked what a godforsaken nightmare... I went to the Ford dealer in Palm Springs and talked to one of their mechanics and he said quote:
" I am so glad they stopped making those G#Ddamn things, I absolutely hate working on them "
2.) Ordered the following but have not installed yet.
EPV delete pedestal.
Stainless downpipes.
Rebuilt stock turbo w billet impeller.( No intercooler)
Used 6.0 transmission cooler.
John woods valvebody(probably won't use this) as contrary to what manufacture says, people say this is too harsh on a used stock transmission.
I bought a brand new custom limited slip rear end with 3:55 gears. BUT I JUST ASSUMED IT WOULD GO IN MY HOUSING BUT I DON'T HAVE A FULL FLOATING SETUP SO NOW I HAVE TO SEARCH FOR 350 COMPLETE FULL FLOATING REAR END..UGGGG :-(
COMPLETE CAMBERG LIFT KIT(used) for $1500.00 !!
I'M JUST NOT SURE HOW TO INSTALL IT BY MYSELF AT HOME... I LIVE IN LANDERS OUT BY JOHNSON VALLEY SO IT SUCKS AS I ONLY HAVE DIRT FOR A DRIVEWAY.
So as you can see this is just the absolute tip of the iceberg of recommended modifications just to make a Ford 7.3 leak free and reliable.

ON THE BRIGHT SIDE IT'S A 7.3 IT COULD BE WORSE IT COULD BE A 6.0 OR ANY OF THE OTHER ONES THEY'VE BUILT SINCE... EVERY SINGLE PERSON I KNOW HAS A 6.0 OR THE 6.7 HAS SPENT AT LEAST $10,000 OUT OF THEIR OWN POCKET FIXING IT....

And his whole talk about them lasting a million miles.... what a crock O' capola!
People will "say anything " to make themselves feel better and that's exactly what that is. No doubt.

Million mile ...lol when ya gotta
Transmissions have to be upgraded.
Fuel injectors will probably have to get replaced which costs more than what I paid for the van.
Fuel systems have to be fixed and upgraded.
Fuel tank has to be fixed and upgraded.
The cause of all seven oil leaks has to be addressed and upgraded.
The turbo exhaust system has to be fixed.
Fuel filters have to be added.
If you want any kind of performance increase...
You have to buy a turbo you have to buy a programmer you have to buy gauges you have to buy an exhaust etc...
I think the best thing to do is leave them completely 100% stock
If I had the money I would buy a lift so I could take the body off the cab it's truly the ONLY WAY you can work on one... There really isn't any other way unless you're 3' foot tall.
I've torn a muscle in my bicep on my left arm and in my shoulder on my right it's been months I just don't know if I'm going to be able to work on this son of a bitch .....I doubt it.
Feel free to say seven hail Marys, & in a prayer or two or three for me...lol :)
 
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