A-arm Bugs. . .who sells quality kits???

atomicjoe23

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So looking at the price of the parts required to beef up a VW Link pin front end the cost starts to sky-rocket FAST!!! Those link pin parts are pretty pricey. . .especially when my bug is a ball joint car so I have the added expense/time of converting to a link pin front end from a ball joint front end

. . .that being said it seems like it would cost about the same (maybe less even) to go with an A-arm set-up.

Does anyone make a center-mount A-arm set-up as a kit that you can purchase without sending your Bug into a shop? I live in Western Washington so I don't have many (really only one quality shop within a reasonable distance of me). . .I am a capable TIG & MIG welder and I have the mechanical ability to install a kit I just don't have the time to build an entire A-arm set-up from scratch. I could find the time to design it, but I just don't have the time to build it from scratch.

Obviously if I am looking at an A-arm set-up this isn't going to be class legal race car. . .looking for a fun Baja Bug to run the forest service roads here in Western Washington and an occasional trip to the WA and/or OR dunes. Most of the A-arm stuff I see for sand cars looks pretty spindly to me.

Thanks for the recommendations!
 

Bert is my name

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Not too sure about a arm kits for bugs. Might be able to find a 10 car front end easier. But for the money spent you could probably build two nice link pin front ends and be done faster since it's been done a million times.
 

Fourstroker

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I might have something you are looking for. Basically a 10 car platform. Could sell tacked together. Its currently on 1 car and about to go on another. Set #3 is ready to be tacked. PM if you want details.
 

atomicjoe23

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Not too sure about a arm kits for bugs. Might be able to find a 10 car front end easier. But for the money spent you could probably build two nice link pin front ends and be done faster since it's been done a million times.
. . .if I already had a link pin front end I would agree with the faster part, but since it's a ball joint front end I have to cut the ball joint beam and beam mount off, find a link pin car (or a beam and beam mount) locally (preferably) that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, weld that on and then start the upgrade process. I've been looking at front trailing arms, wider beams, spindles, disc brake conversion, etc. and that stuff adds up FAST!
 

atomicjoe23

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Car is together (except the motor and transmission aren't in the car at the moment. . .it's the way it came). . .I haven't started on it yet; in the research part of the project right now. I haven't had a bug before so I don't know very much about VW stuff so I've been reading about and looking at Baja Bugs I like, figuring out what I want, and finding what parts cost/where I can get them. . .

. . .the car came with the GF's Meyers Manx buggy as a spare parts car. . .turns out it was like 99% complete because the guy never needed anything off of it; the only thing of note that was missing was a driver's side door. I already bought the door so I'm ready to go. . .

I'm not averse to a little work; I went to welding school and I'm a Tool & Die Maker by trade so I have the skills necessary. . .just figuring out the route I wanna go.

I've always liked the A-Arm bugs, but I assumed they were prohibitively expensive. . .based on the cost of upgraded link pin suspension I have a pretty good idea why the people that have gone to an A-arm front end have because it's not more expensive than the upgraded VW link pin front end and it's more capable.
 

Maxton

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I will be building front suspension parts for a tube chassis Manx here shortly, and could build an extra set if it would work for you.

I originally designed around a combo spindle and CNC hubs, but ended up redesigning for King kong spindles and Jamar hubs (could build either). The suspension is 71" trackwidth with 30" all-terrains on a centerline wheel, and 76" wide with 32" KR3 mounted on a 5.5" Robby wheel. It cycles about 15" using a King IBP Rzr 1000 shock. Kartek steering rack. I didn't go with a center mount setup, because I don't think you need it with that amount of travel, and I wanted the room in the front to mount some low forward weight (batteries, tools, maybe fuel) to help the car turn.

If it would work out for you, I could potentially build a extra set of suspension arms, and give you pivot point measurements, or build the same front clip as my car will have, and you can cut your car up and make it fit.

Realistically, I am a few months from having parts done. I want to have the complete car designed before taking up the room in the garage.
 

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gwizz

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I will be building front suspension parts for a tube chassis Manx here shortly, and could build an extra set if it would work for you.

I originally designed around a combo spindle and CNC hubs, but ended up redesigning for King kong spindles and Jamar hubs (could build either). The suspension is 71" trackwidth with 30" all-terrains on a centerline wheel, and 76" wide with 32" KR3 mounted on a 5.5" Robby wheel. It cycles about 15" using a King IBP Rzr 1000 shock. Kartek steering rack. I didn't go with a center mount setup, because I don't think you need it with that amount of travel, and I wanted the room in the front to mount some low forward weight (batteries, tools, maybe fuel) to help the car turn.

If it would work out for you, I could potentially build a extra set of suspension arms, and give you pivot point measurements, or build the same front clip as my car will have, and you can cut your car up and make it fit.

Realistically, I am a few months from having parts done. I want to have the complete car designed before taking up the room in the garage.
try to get a higher motion ratio at the shock than what you have. aka move the shock more inboard on the lower arm.
 

Maxton

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try to get a higher motion ratio at the shock than what you have. aka move the shock more inboard on the lower arm.
Thank you. No need to try it, I know for a fact that I can get a higher Motion ratio by moving the shock mounting point more inboard. But no need for this build. My initial design goal was to have 15" wheel travel front and rear (should be plenty for a 1500lb. Manx car with 1 shock per wheel), that is also why I didn't center-mount the front arms. When originally designing the suspension, looked at increasing front droop travel with my current geometry, and it would result in too much track width change with droop (in my opinion). So, since I didn't want to center mount the front, I limited the travel. Trade-off


Ill hopefully start a build thread for this car in the shop section soon, just need to find the time to start actually building the thing.
 
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