Again more i beam talk...

FIGGY

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OK heres my question on the i beam set up from what i know about i beams, i here that the best beams that last a beating are the ones off the fords in mid 70s. ok does anybody have any pics or set up of these beams on a fullsize for or ranger. i know the leducs truck had these types of beams on there class 8 and on there black f150. im got a truck im gonna start and im thinkin of getting a hold of these beams but i want the pros and cons before i start this. and which ones to actually use. i can fabricate everything else such as the radius arms ect. i jus know they can take a beatin. if any body got any pics those would be very helpfull. thanks guys.
 

Go Go Gadget Arms

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1" king pin front steer is what you are referring to. They are good beams for prerunners and some mild race trucks w/o excessive fab otherwise fab can get excessive to make them class 8 worthy. For what its worth you can build your own using a better spindle and hub set up. Giant makes a few different style beams with machined ends that accept dana 4x4 hubs. Blitzkrieg offroad makes custom knuckles that can run a 2.5 custom hub with the dana ball joints. that setup would be affordable and 10X stronger/ servicable than a kingpin with cone or auto fab 1" hubs the downfall to kingpin is the kingpin hole in the beam will eventually oval out if not double sheared. blitzkrieg and C and D make billet beam ends that will resist wear unlike the ford forged beams. thats just a rough overview
 

Good Knight Racing

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Here is a pic of the beams on my ranger it uses a c@d beam end and spindle much stronger then any stock ford part. Sorry for the rusty pic
 

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philofab

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1" Equal length beams with front steer spindles were used for years until better aftermarket pieces were available. Now machined beam ends and spindles are common from lots of manufactures/shops such as Camburg, Giant, C&D, BMS, Kartec, ect. You could still use a set if you can find them but I would use a TTB ends first if I were to use OEM parts. Parts and cores are way more common and obtainable.
 

murphco

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the king pin beams will not give you the option of changing ride height or correcting camber/caster issues that may arise after they are built and plated.and like phil said the machined versions are going to be stronger and more available and you start with a beam end that has the correct size holes,not something that you have to worry about wear from previous morons.
 
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