Alternatives to Competition Engineering battery box?

Sheepdog

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I'd like to move the battery from the stock under-hood location in the left front corner of our 2021 Ranger, to the right rear corner of the bed, but I haven't decided how I want to do it yet.

I'm looking for some balance of clean, simple, secure, and affordable.

The best I've been able to come up with so far, is the Competition Engineering battery box. It's $180, which seems steep for what it is, but I'm not finding any viable alternatives.

It's made out of 1/8" mild steel, so it should be pretty sturdy. And I can swap out the fasteners for tamper-resistant Torx to hopefully keep our battery from walking away during contingency in Ensenada.

It's larger than our battery, so I would probably modify it to make it smaller, to fit our battery better and to take up less room in the bed. The only dimension that I can easily "adjust" would be the length. As it comes, It's 14.75" long on the outside and 12.38" long on the inside. Our battery is 11" long. If I flip the two end pieces around, I can shorten the top, bottom, and side pieces about 3.5" and redrill the holes, to make it 11" or so on the inside and 11.25" or so on the outside.

I can cut some rubber horse stall mat material into panels, to make up the difference in height and width between our battery and the inside dimensions of the battery box.

Is there any other battery box that I should be looking at for this?
 

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dan200

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We (SDHQ) have some less expensive alternatives. I am unsure what is in stock today but you can send an email to help@sdhqoffroad.com and the front sales people will verify what's in stock and follow up with ya.


we sell a ton of these billet terminal kits also if your interested. They make wiring easier. Please verify they are compatible with what your plans are. They were designed for the stock location but we've seen them used in all kinds of applications. People love these.


SDHQBuiltCompleteBilletBatteryTerminalKit_480x.jpg
 
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michael.gonzalez

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Lots of options


Personally, I've run 2 trail-gear optima mounts before and liked them, but optima's aren't that great nowadays.

Edit: Looks like SDHQ has more options!
 

landshark

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are you opposed to single/dual battery "holder" or need to enclose the battery entirely? there are many options out there that might work depending on your battery size/requirements but RuffStuff makes some battery holders for single/dual setups for the optima series. We run the dual length ways mounting ruff stuff box and made a cover for them that is easy to remove.

Screen Shot 2022-08-01 at 11.55.06 AM.png


 

mig29

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Good deals on Ebay:


I got a battery box (new, welded) for like $18 shipped off Ebay few yrs ago

Screenshot 2022-08-01 at 11-25-27 NEW LIGHTWEIGHT BATTERY BOX 9 WIDE WELD-ON RACING DRAG eBay.png



Barnes 4WD has competitive prices for rock-crawling parts



They have interesting JT Molle bed system:

Screenshot 2022-08-01 at 11-15-34 Barnes 4WD.png
 

Sheepdog

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Thanks guys, but our battery won't fit in any of those bolt-on battery mounts- they're all designed for Optima or Odyssey batteries. If I have to buy a battery just to fit a battery mount, it would end up being more expensive than my current idea.
 
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BCarr

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I can appreciate the want to relocate the vehicle's primary battery. But what is the need to do this?

Jeez sheepdog, I dig what you are doing to that rig. Not trying to talk you out of it. Just be aware of what you are trying to accomplish as today's vehicle/underhood electrical architecture is not what it used to be.
 

Sheepdog

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Weight distribution.

And due to the electrics, I'm gonna have to run two cables all the way to the front, to connect to the stock battery terminal clamps.
 

Bebop

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If weight distribution is really your concern, just add 30lbs of balast in the rear bumper. It'll be easier.




Seriously though, if you wanted to go about it the smart way, you'd leave the stock battery in place and add a second one in the rear with a charge manager (or a manual disconnect if you want to keep a really reliable system). A lot less possibillties of electronic sh.t to go wrong, and a lot less ghetto than running cables to hook back to the stock cables.
As far as battery boxes, get the ruffstuff one, it's proven and good.

I'm an Optima or Oddyssey guy, never had an issue with either of them. Don't always trust the forum naggers. Yellow top is exactly what you want in this application...
 

Sheepdog

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The stock battery is 55 pounds. Moving it, takes 55 pounds off the front tires, which is something that no amount of ballast in back will do.

Adding 30 pounds of ballast to the rear, would improve the weight distribution only 1/4 as much as moving the battery would.

Buying a second battery would cost more and still involve running the same cables I'd have to run to relocate the stock one.

And adding stuff (ballast/batteries) would make the truck heavier, as opposed to moving the stock battery, which would add little weight.
 

Bebop

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I guess your mind is made up. Do what you feel is best then.

For your battery box, you could build the same thing as this $180 unit for $50 in steel at Home Depot and 2h in the shop if you're a slow ass operator. And it would match exactly the dimensions you need.
 

Bebop

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Phone a friend ? Ask a shop ? Learn how to use said tools and borrow some ? Design and have send-cut-send or Lasernut cut and bend the parts for you ?

Sooooo many options... Just gotta want to do it.
 
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Matthew Camp

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I just did my every 2.5 year warranty return for my optima yellow tops 3 year plan . The price of a new yellow top at orieleys is $344. But optimal have a 3 yr plan as most have 2 yr .
 
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