ANOTHER BRAKE QUESTION

JOSH

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OK GUYS, I'M GOING TO BE GETTING RID OF MY ABS SYSTEM SOON AND PUTTING IN A WILWOOD PEDALS, MASTER CYLINDERS AND PROPORTIONING VALVES. HERE IS THE QUESTION, DO I NEED TO RUN A BOOSTER OR CAN I JUST TEAR ALL MY EXISTING STUFF OUT AND START OVER WITH WHAT I HAVE LISTED?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP,
JOSH
 

tkr

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if you're driving it on the street, you really should run a booster. It will be really hard to stop without it. If you want to see what I mean, unplug the vacuum line to your booster and pinch off the hose. Then drive it down the street and try to stop.....just make sure no one's in front of you first. If you're only using it off road, it may not be too bad.

Matt Nelson
Team Kwik Racing
 

Greg

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The pedal has a lot to do with the size of the brakes and the size of the master cylinder. Dont get a 1" M/c, it'll require too much leg pressure to work. I just ditched the booster on my ranger but I have 12" rotors and big AP calipers in back and F-150 rotors and calipers in front and stopping 35's shouldn't be a problem. At least I hope not, if im not mistaken, none of the race trucks run boosters either.

Greg
 

JOSH

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ok guys how does this setup sound. I'll keep the booster, run dual 3/4" wilwood m/c's and two proportioning valves, (one for the front, one for the rear) with stock S-10 calipers and rotors up front and stock ford explorer disks in the back. Is there anything missing? How do you think it will work?

Thanks for all you help,
Josh
 

Chris

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We don't run a brake booster on our 8 truck. Stopping on the street and stoping getting it down the ramps on the trailer takes a grip of pedal pressure but the feel is just right in the dirt.
 

JOSH

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The same reason I don't have a TT. Money my friend, its all about the money. The truth is I'm just a kid trying to compete in a rich mans sport, But you know what? I'm having the time of my life trying.

I thought, If I'm going to do it, do it right. That way when the time comes and I have the money all I have to do is get rid of the calipers and rotors. But as of now I have to do something to get rid of my abs. First of all you couldn't stop my truck in the dirt w/ the abs for a naked supermodel, And second, the abs controller is sitting on my stock wheel well and it's going to be in the way when I put on my new suspension.

SO, what do you guys think? Will that work?

Thanks
Josh
 

John Bitting

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I dont know anything about brakes but this is funny as hell....

"First of all you couldn't stop my truck in the dirt w/ the abs for a naked supermodel, "
 

Kritter

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WHere's NTSQD he works for Wilwood I think or he's a Brake Designer. Ask him.

Kris

"A man with a watch knows what time it is; with two watches, he is never sure" Joseph E. Shigley
 

ntsqd

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Right here.
The reason you can't stop a boosted truck with the line disconnected is because the CHECK VALVE is still in the booster. W/o a vacuum source you've turned the booster into a pressure reservoir. Remove the check valve, then try stopping. It still may not be good, but it will be better.

I don't mess with boosters at work so I can only guess at them. With a heavy truck you might need one, but Winston Cup cars @ 3500 lbs+ don't use them. I'd think your S-10 may not either. My general inclination is to only useone when all else fails.
Figure out your front total piston area (parts catalogs usually list the piston size) and divide the Wilwood m/c piston area into that. Then multiply by the lever ratio for the pedal. My guess is that you need to be in the 80:1 to 100:1 zone. If it's lower than 80:1 you may need a booster. If it's over 100:1 step up one size in m/c bore diameter and calc it again. Since I design the parts, and not the application of the parts, this all is an educated guess.

TS

"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
 
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