Axle housing

J_Dog

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I've got a Ford 8.8" rear diff on the 7s truck. Last week while testing I got a little too heavy on the throttle and took a big hit off a jump. The bottom of the left axle tube, at the housing, looks like it may be leaking a little fluid. I still need to clean the area and check for crack, which I'm sure is going to be there, but I was wondering can you just weld a small bead in that area to correct the problem? Or does it need to be taken out and welded all the way around the axle tube where it enters the housing? The axle is trussed on top. Thanks

Jeff Matlock

 

ntsqd

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Those integral carrier housings are kinda tough that way. I'm not sure what the old timers do with them to make them stand up to off road use. Where the tube goes into the housing is a major stress riser because of the sudden & dramatic change in cross section and because the end of the casting acts like a knife edge on the tube when loaded in bending.
Where it me, I would fab some tubes that are fish-mouthed that tightly fit over the axle tubes, split them or slide them on b4 the housing ends go on, and butt them against the cast center. Depending on the thickness of the casting where the tube goes in, I might do this several times in successively shorter pieces until I achieved the same thickness as the casting at the tube hole. The idea is to gradually increase the cross section. Then I would look at trussing it from the bottom.

Steel is stronger in tension than in compression. You have to add a lot more weight to the axle housing when you put the truss on top due the need for greater wall thickness and diameter required by compressive loading. A similar strength under-axle truss would add far less weight to the housing.

TS

"It only seems kinky the first time"
-- Bumpersticker seen in Lost Wages
 

Greg

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Oh no, not another 8.8 giving up. The axle tubes are "pressed" in the center section and have 2 little plug welds that seem to fall off and the tubes start to pull out. See if there is any rubbing from the brake drum on the dust cover. Nothing short of replacing the entire unit with something stronger, pound the tubes back in the housing and weld a peice of 3/4 bar stock from one end to the other, go under the diff, and that should keep them from pulling out and still give you clearance. My 8.8 gave me all kinds of trouble til i did that, weldin on the tubes to the center always cracked, although it may have helped from the tubes twisting. You could always go the trailer-queen route and "laser-cut-dimple-die-sculpted-heat-treated-cromo-f9-11-billet-latest-greatest-super-fab-unobtainium -terminology-double-throw down-whatever" to your 8.8 but if you just wanna have it hold up to a beating this should work.

Greg
 

Kritter

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"laser-cut-dimple-die-sculpted-heat-treated-cromo-f9-11-billet-latest-greatest-super-fab-unobtainium -terminology-double-throw down-whatever"

can you do that for me Greg?

Kris
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"Jesus loves you, everybody else thinks you're an A-hole"
 
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