Axle Input ???

scott

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Whats better Full-Floater or Straight Posi???? Full Floater I know is more forgiving with the torque, from HP and the landings from being airborn. Also input on a widened 9" or a 10.25".... I know Chrisman is the S@%$%$, but I want to budget. I'm leaning towards widened 9" Floater... Thanks
 

rdc

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A full floater and a posi have nothing to do with each other than the fact they are both parts of a complete axle assembly. Full floater is referring to the axles. With a full floater you have axles that are splined on both ends and the hub is held on with a spindle nut. The main benifit is that if you break an axle it will not walk out along with the tire.

A posi unit is a differential that puts power to both wheels but can break loose for cornering. There are many different types of differentials and that is where you should do your home work. How you plan to drive will make a big difference in what you choose.

Hope this helped you out some.....

Tony
 

jeff

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To add to the last post... A full-floating hub takes the weight of the vehicle off of the axles and places it on the hub. This is a benefit for off-roaders especially - when you catch air and land the load is placed on the hub and not the axle shafts. A semi-floating setup will also prevent the axle shaft from sliding out should something fail. Full floater is great if you can afford it.

To get further into the answer we'd need to know what rear/front end you are talking about, and what vehicle it's going to be run in.

Aloha
 

rdc

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Opps.

Good add Jeff. That is a good point.

Tony
 

JCA

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Not to mention roll factor. Break an axel less of a chance of ending up on the lid if it is a full floater.

J.C. Andrews
Andrews Racing
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.andrewsracing.com>www.andrewsracing.com</A>
 

Jimmy8

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Give Sandy Cone a call. He has housings and rear ends for every budget. Everything from stock housings with chromolloy tubes in them, to full chromolloy housings. He also has a housing he is building right now that is almost done and is similar to a chrisman but is about 3 grand less. His other stuff is real affordable though. Our pre runner has a housing with chromolloy tubes in it and is great. Had it in their for way over 10 years. Our 8 truck has the all chromolloy and is great as well. about 10 years out of that one right now. Our TT will probably use the new one that is similar to a chrisman. I dont have the number off hand right now because I am 2 1/2 hours away from home at school, but I know John B. does, so send him a PM and I am sure that he'll get it for you.
 

Greg

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Sandy Cone, hope you can get through on the phone and have a suit case full of large bills. There are a couple others to look into 1) Mark Williams and 2) Coleman racing. Coleman dosen't have huge stuff like Cone but for us Ranger and Toyota guys they are way cheap. I think I priced-out a billet hub and bearings and spindal, rotor, hat, and 4 piston caliper for like $500 per corner. These roundy-round guys have all the cool stuff cheap. Also there is a guy in Elsinore building sheet metal housings pretty cheap, his name is Jayson Miles, he used to own Tube works.

Greg
 

Jimmy8

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Sandy's stuff never breaks, and compared to Chrisman, which he mentioned, the stuff is way cheap.
 

singlehanded

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What exactly is the truck going to be used for racing- prerunner- or prerunner/daily driver. A new full-floating 9" complete will cost a grip, what sort of suspension do you have on that f150? Put a spool in it and if you have the cash build a floater. Whats a new floating rear cost 5grand+?

local
 

rdc

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I don't know where these kids get their imfo but it is pretty funny. I notice hardly anyone gives phone numbers for the guys they plug.I have been on here for a short time but I have done some research,also I have phone numbers but you wont need them .Just call autofab that is where I found the best deal,talk to John.If you are rich then go to sandy cone,talk about pricey .I also did research on axles and ring and pinons . I called race shops and contacted racers. I could give you more imfo on a complete ford 9 if you would like but it will take awhile
 

Greg

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Here are some prices on axle stuff from Coleman (866-coleman, is thier #) 1)9" floater assembly, includes housing w/ snouts, 7075 hubs, bearings, drive plates, and axles; $1334.65. Aluminum spool; $212.35. Cast aluminum brake hat;$58.20. 12" vented rotor; $63.40. Cast aluminum 4 piston caliper $142.95. Weld-on caliper brackets; $18.85. You still need a carrier, Mark Williams ,#303-665-6901, for around $575.00 and a pinion bearing assm. for $232.00. The last thing is a R&P from anyone for around $200.00. So a complete new/custom rear will run you around 32-33 hundred. Or if you want the strength without the cash outlay and dont care about weight or the "cool-ness factor" go find a dana 60 floater with 35 spline axles and redrill the hubs to your pattern.

Greg
 

jeff

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Another option which doesn't get much press is the WARN full-floating conversion kit. <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.warn.com/InternetHome/products/Axles/FullFloatHome.shtm>http://www.warn.com/InternetHome/products/Axles/FullFloatHome.shtm</A>

They run around $725 for the basic "kit" - you'll need to run either GM or Cadillac calipers if you want to use their available disc brake brackets. You can have WARN make custom axle lengths if your rearend requires a specific width... all the way up to 35-spline.

You could go get a Junkyard Ford 9" - buy the $725 floater kit, get new calipers, rotors, bearings, pay someone to gusset it all up, have someone set up the R&P and spool... and be done with it for less than $2000. That's a low-buck approach that should handle just about anything you throw at it.

I'm not a huge fan of aluminum spools as I've heard of R&P failure under high torque loads... if anyone out there has information proving otherwise I'd like to hear it. I'd love to get rid of that rotating weight in the Ford 9" without hurting reliability. You can order Richmond or Strange spools out of Jegs or Summit all day long for less than $200 bucks.

Or.... You could do a similar operation using a new Currie 9+ components and spend $2500-ish. That way everything would be new.

Just a thought.

Aloha
 

Greg

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I run an aluminum spool in my truck but it has 9.75" ring gear (dana 60) and haven't had any problems. Not sure if the 9" are more prone to problems. Seems as axle breakage, especially on a full-size with 35 or 37" tires, would be a big concern though. I know guys running 9" with 33 spline axles and 35" tires that dont have any trouble, but I wouldn't do it.

Greg
 

scott

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Its for an F-150 with a stock 8.8 with 4:88's and a support cover and thats about it. Eventually I want to Link it, so it has to be widened to match the 4 and a half inches wider per side. But like I said I'm looking for input, so I can research what I want.
 

Jimmy8

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You will find it is a lot cheaper to build a 9 inch, and there is a lot more available for them. 8.8's are good for street but ditch it if you are going to be doing some heavy rompin.
 

jeff

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Let me guess... you've got a late model F-150 and want to keep the 8.8 because of the computerized engine/trans management... tone ring??? That's the only reason I'd keep an 8.8 in an off-road truck. And that's not even a good reason any more.

You can build the 8.8 to be pretty damn strong - and for the same amount of $$$ you can build a stronger 9"

With enough bracing and gusseting you can probably get plenty of life out of the 8.8 - especially if you're not running a built motor. You can run 35-spline axles and a spool in the 8.8... But it'll cost you almost twice what it would to do the same to a 9"

If you're going to build it do it right the first time. Ditch the 8.8 and work with something more up to the task. You can even have somebody fab the tone ring from a 8.8 into the 9" so that the truck won't regect the new rearend. :)

Aloha
 

ntsqd

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Along the line of the Currie housing parts there is also the Alston FAB 9 to look at as an alternative housing. Check out: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.cachassisworks.com/fab9.htm>http://www.cachassisworks.com/fab9.htm</A>
Bare in mind that these are Drag Race people, so the brackets are all out to lunch for desert use. They come Mild or Chro-Mo in just about any width you'd want under a truck.
Some of the Crawler people are building their own floaters using an adapter and the front stub spindles from D44's and D60's. Using the matching hub puts you right into rear discs with just a caliper bracket and calipers.

"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
 

Jimmy8

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Ill tell you where you can get a good housing cheap. In Jegs they have 9 inch housings that look like a chrisman. they come in either steel which is $350 or chromolloy that is around $500 I believe. I have seen these exact housings on some pre runners and they look great and work pretty good, so check it out.
 
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