Axle trussing

Stan

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I need a good how-to on how to do it. I have the axle out of the truck. I'll strip it down completely. I've got the design, which is here <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/10-bolt-3.asp>http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/10-bolt-3.asp</A>

Several questions I have........
Is this removable design good, or should I go for a permanant attachment?
As for preloading the axle, should the diff pumpkin have the preload pushing it down, or the other way around? And what would be a good way to do this on the cheap with the axle out of the truck?


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Kritter

Krittro Campbell
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I would make it permanent. Make something to go through the axle housing during fabrication to keep it from bending.If you dont have trust in your wleding abilities, leave it up to sombody who can weld...not much room for overheating the tubes and warping it here. If you prefer to add residual stresses be sure to put the top of the housing in tension and the bottom in compression becasue that way it will take more force to bend the axles upward. I am not sure if residual forces are something you do to axle housings considering they have to be pretty symmetrical or you are going to eat bearings up.




Kris
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ntsqd

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Steel is best when you can load it in tension. For that reason I'd suggest reconsidering if the marginal loss of clearence from an under axle gusset is more or less important than the strength of the gusset itself.
If the weld bead goes all the way around the axle tubes, then the shinkage should be reasonably even. Beads that run down the length of the tube are the ones that can pull the housing out of alignment. The easiest, but necessarily the cheapest, way to deal with this is to weld on your gusset and have it checked for straightness. Worst case is that they will have to cut your housing ends off and weld them back on with the straightening fixture in place.
You may want to consider a second gusset the runs from near the pinion flange out and back to the tubes near the housing ends. This will help in the event of a high speed impact with something large and immovable.

TS

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singlehanded

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I was gona truss my 8.8 myself, but I dont have a jig or anything to make sure axles dont get warped. I went to curry and they wont straighten an 8.8 only 9 inches. So I think I will end up just paying a shop to do it right. I checked out a rear end at the baja shop and it looked pretty bulletproof, so probably end up having them do it. Also there are alot of welding shops around that can do it they just wont have the knowledge of whats the best design like a race shop would know. What rear end is it for?

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Stan

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[quoteWhat rear end is it for?[/quote]

It's for my super high-tech, unbreakable $20 10 bolt axle. This is just a backup I bought a few weeks ago, figured I could do a couple of things to this one and throw it into my truck and take the 12 bolt and get a little crazy with it.



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