battery problem

dezerts10

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I have an optima red top that i moved to my bed a few months ago and since it rained like 2 weeks ago it has been acting weird. it doesnt seem to be holding a charge. if i run my stereo for a little while the truck doesnt turn over to easily and the cd player goes to error. i have my cables all ghetto rigged using a pair of jumper cables and it was working fine up till the rains. Also, the friday it begain to rain i drove to laughlin and back and on the way back i was playing with my lights we took Rt 66 and it was pitch blac and i turned the off road lights on and my friends at work said i coulda been drawing to much on the battery they recomended a high out put altenator, because i may have killed the battery. make since?

Gregg
 

jeff

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I'd start with your "ghetto" wiring job. It's damn near impossible to kill an Optima. The only problem I've EVER had with an Optima I learned the hard way... they do NOT like to be strapped down too tight. If the top is compressed too much it squishes the cells and the thing will die a very quick death.

I'd check for corosion at the terminals and go from there - I doubt it's the battery and doubt it's the alternator. And why in the heck are you using jumper cables? That's not even ghetto fabulous... that's just ghetto. :)

Aloha
 

dezerts10

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cause thats all i had at the time its a money thing jeff im not making even 10 bucks an hour and in the garage dad had like 5 pairs of jumper cables so i hijacked apair it worked fine till it rained. i do plan on redoing the set up but thats not until i can get enough money around to do the rear of my truck and getting rid of the bed and all that stuff. My trucks been at the fab dudes shop since monday and he says it has started just fine everytime hes had to move it so my ghetto crap might have been wet possibly. It all about having money which right now i have not very much.

Gregg
 

cleartoy

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Ive also had a starting problem. My battery is in the bed. Im using a fairly new Optima, new starter, and 2 gauge wiring. The pos lead is several feet long. The ground goes to the bed. Its charging. Usually when i go to crank it (but not always) it turns over slow or not at all.

Ive been told to use shorter pos lead, bigger cable, and ground the batt to the frame before i fry the ECM. I just redid the ground to the frame so we will see if that makes a difference.



94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

Got Sand??
 

jeff

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I wasn't trying to put you down man... lord knows I've rig'd some pretty ghetto stuff in my time. :) For my latest battery setup I went to a local welding supply house and bought about 30 feet of their inexpensive welding cable. Fat wire and it's fine strand (bends super easy) and works pretty well for remote battery setups. I know what it's like to be on a tight budget... between my woman and school fees (plus her school fees) there isn't much left over for the toys right now. If your truck is having electrical gremlins start simple. Check the grounds and make sure stuff isn't corroded. Check resistance if you can. One thing to watch out for is internal corrosion. Once the cables start to corrode on the inside it just spreads. Corroded wires do NOT conduct electricty very well at all. I had a section of old cable I ran for a positive from the battery to my MSD ignition and on the outside the wire looked perfect... when the darn thing wouldn't run right I peeled back the wire insulation and found the wire to be junk for about 8-inches. Cut the junk off and tried it again and everything was great.

Also regarding the ground(s)... I had a weird intermitent problem on my old S-10 that took me a month to figure out... tried all sorts of stuff and in the end it turned out to be a bad ground strap. It's usually the simple stuff that gets overlooked.

Aloha
 

orvacian

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The truck bed is isolated from chassis ground with rubber mounts, very bad place to ground a battery. For a rear mounted battery it should be grounded directly to the chassis AND the cab. The positive cable should be at least 2 awg,standard jumper cables will not do. I used 2 parallel 4awg cables to keep the cost down and it works great. You will also want to improve the stock cables from the engine to the body.
 

cleartoy

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Grounding to the frame made a difference. Thanks all.

94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

Got Sand??
 

michael_loomis

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gregg your jumper cables are too thin , and the constant use can take its toll on the starter motor change it soon !! also im not sure about your 4 banger but my 4.3 has a 105 amp alternator stock , plenty of juice even with my rather "pumped up" stereo. clean off all the metal contact surfaces , especially the lead posts on the battery.

cleartoy , even 2 gauge might be a little small if the POS cable is over 6 or 7 feet long.
 

ntsqd

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Frames aren't very good conductors either. Usually the ground path has several riveted junctions in it. Ground to the frame at both ends, but also run an equal, or slightly smaller gauge wire from the engine ground (you did put one on when you moved the battery ground from the engine, Right ?) to the battery ground.
Bad grounds will make you crazy and computer controlled cars are the worst for being sensitive to bad grounds.
For a bed mounted battery I would consider single ought ('0') to be the minimum size cable.

Wash the battery. It would be easy for you to have a very small discharge due to conductive mineral build-up btwn the terminals.


TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

ntsqd

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Pardon me, given the original poster's screen name I thot we were talking about GM stuff, not Toyota's. I own an '84 LA Yoter, I wouldn't wire it any differently than my previous posting. My '79 Suburban has riveted crossmembers, do late GM's have riveted or welded crossmembers ?

Doesn't really matter though, welds aren't super low resistance either.

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 
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